First NASA HPDE event next week end

[Sharad]

For me, I sell spare car parts to fund my events...that and beg my awesome wife to let me go.

HA! Same here.

 

[Morris]

Not sure how to post video but here are a few laps from the event.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tag2O4lCz_g

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGARoHWSWkU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kk-3jy4MqE0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF-T1lHbHvs


If some one knows how to embed these please let me know how you guys do it so I can fix it.

 

[Morris]

The stock brakes held up but they don't feel too good anymore. I'm sure the fluid is cooked. Time for some upgrades. I'm thinking of maybe trying the carbotech x10 and x8 and getting a set of braded lines. Not sure on what fluid I will be able to find local but that's first on the list. Any one use carbotech pads on a daily driver? I need a pad that can work for both track and a d.d.

 

[OkieSnuffBox]

I use the XP10/8 on my Miata with Rcomps.......you might need to go up a bit with the compound as heavy as the Mustang is.

That said, I LOVE the feel and modulation on track with them.

On the street though, they do dust alot (although not corrosive like many track-worthy pads) and they are NOISY when cold. But still stop just fine.

But I only occasionally drive the Miata on the street as the GT is the DD.

Also keep in mind the Carbotech's call for new, or resurfaced rotors to properly make the transfer layer. Bedding them in is as easy as 70-10 runs until the brakes stink, then drive around a bit no using the brakes, park and let them cool.

Ready to go.

 

[Morris]

Hmm, thanks for the info. Seems like the choice then is either new rotors with carbotechs or just slap on some hawk hps pads.

Any other suggestions? keep in mind this is a DD that will see 100 miles a day and I don't want to change out the pads on race day. I don't care too much about the noise and I know dust is just the way of things but I don't want it to be so corrosive they are going to cause issues if I don't wash the car for a few weeks.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

BRAKE TECH

Give that a read, and then do things the right way, get a second set of rotors and dedicate those to real track pads. In the long run, your wallet will thank you. "Multipurpose" pads suck on the street (dust, noise, high wear rate), and suck at the track (MOT too low, high wear rate). Swapping out the brakes the day before you go to the track will only take an hour, and while you're in there, you can do a nice visual inspection of all the brake and suspension hardware. Mustangs are notoriously hard on brakes, take every advantage you can get!

 

[Morris]

Ya, I was trying to take the lazy way out. The only way I can do that is to take the day off before an event and I didn't want to have to do that.

I'll give it a read, thank you.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

No need to take the day off... A four-corner swap only takes around an hour, in your garage, with hand tools. You can do it once you get home from work, while doing the normal track-prep stuff, like emptying out the trunk, back seat, visors, etc.

 

[Morris]

Ya, I guess I need to just bite the bullet and stop being a pussy. I guess I'll have to get some low dust pads for the day to day use and another set of rotors/pads for the track days.

I have not messed with the brakes yet, didn't know it would be that fast. Still a PITA to have to do after a race day (unless I take the day off, then no issues). I don't mind wrenching and actually enjoy it but not when pressed for time or if I HAVE to do it. I need another car!

 

[OkieSnuffBox]

I think Carbotech makes pads that will work with the XP transfer layer and be streetable. So you'd only have to swap pads and not rotors as well, though if you don't have fixed calipers, it's not much more to change rotors as well.

Nice thing about Carbotech's is they are pretty easy on rotors vs other compounds.

 

[Morris]

I'll have to look into it, thanks

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I agree that the Carbotech pads are easier on the rotors, but in my experience, the pads don't last nearly as long as the Hawk compounds. Pick your poison. For me, the balance came down on the side of making $300 pads last longer, and not worrying about the longevity of a $100 rotor.

On the plus side, the Carbotech XP series pads are (IIRC) compatible with the Bobcat line of street pads. That said, however, transfer layer is the key to track braking, and even the Bobcats will wipe that layer away, forcing you to re-bed them every time you hit the track. I think you can get a complete set of quality spare rotors for under $400, and if you ever have issues with the track set, you have the street setup to get you home. Cheap insurance, if you ask me. My normal spares kit includes a complete set of rotors, pads, and at least 3 liters of RBF600. It's been that way for years, from doing everything out of my trunk, to a little tire trailer, to a 24' enclosed.

 

[OkieSnuffBox]

I agree that the Carbotech pads are easier on the rotors, but in my experience, the pads don't last nearly as long as the Hawk compounds.

Hehehe, that's why I track a tiny car.

15 20 minute sessions and the brakes have no appreciable wear.

 

[Moochman4life]

BRAKE TECH

Give that a read, and then do things the right way, get a second set of rotors and dedicate those to real track pads. In the long run, your wallet will thank you. "Multipurpose" pads suck on the street (dust, noise, high wear rate), and suck at the track (MOT too low, high wear rate). Swapping out the brakes the day before you go to the track will only take an hour, and while you're in there, you can do a nice visual inspection of all the brake and suspension hardware. Mustangs are notoriously hard on brakes, take every advantage you can get!

This right here is some VERY solid advice. Throw in a brake bleed / fluid change and call it a wrap.

 

[Morris]

Question about the brake fluid change/bleed. I purchased a vacume pump in an attempt to bleed the brakes as a one man job. I couldn't get it to work, some how the air bubbles would never stop as if the system was not sealed, some how air would continue to be drawn from the nipple. Once I enlisted some help did the traditional peddal pumping I didn't have a problem. Any ideas on what I need to do to bleed the system using the vacume method?

Anyway, at first the brakes didn't feel that much different after removing all the old fluid and flushing with motul rfb 600. After I did some hard stops, enough to activate the abs several times they felt much better. I didn't have the tools or know how to flush the abs system so what ever was in there is I guess mixed in with the rest. The brakes do feel much better now. Still lots of pad left front and back so I should be good to go for daily commute.

I'll have to do the bleed process again when I install the line lock and the braided lines. So if you guys have any tips on what I may have done wrong with the vacume please chime in.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I use Russel Speed Bleeders, to do the one-man thing. Slap a hose on the bleeder, crack it open, hop in and pump a few times, close it and move on to the next corner. No muss, no fuss, no drama. I've never been a big fan of the vacuum bleeders personally, couldn't get any better/easier results than the Speed Bleeders or simple gravity bleeding. Speed Bleeders are a one-time $20 each investment, that for guys like me that bleed/flush frequently pays off in the long run. No second guy, no chanting, no air-pressure aeration of the fluid, no hassles. With properly sized wheels, you can even bleed with the car on the ground.

As for the ABS HCU itself, I wouldn't worry over-much about it. The tool to cycle it is a factory-based software tool that costs UBER dollars, and after you've flushed and tracked the car for a while (repeated ABS activation and system flushes over the course of time), the contamination % from the old fluid drops to beyond negligible.

EDIT: Under $10.00 each, after a 30 second search!

LINKEY!

 

[Morris]

Nice, that's going to me a must have item! I wonder if you could do both the bleeders on a front side brembo at the same time?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I don't; outside first, for about 8-12 pumps, then inside for another four, checking MC fluid level in between. The first eight or will get fresh fluid from the MC through the lines and outside half of the caliper, then the other four will pretty effectively dump the old fluid from the inside half.