First time on Circuit

[steve13gt]

I have a 2013, been down the quarter plenty of times.. but the reason I sold my Charged 2003 Mustang for this was to build something that can actually handle..

So far I have Eibach Multi Pro R2s coming
only suspension mods are Whiteline LCAS, Relocation Brackets, and ADJ Pan hard..

Anything I should do, I still have a bit of time.. I've heard of things like removing dust shields? I was thinking of removing brake fluid from the reservoir and using a Dot 4 Race Fluid.. Looking for some little things that make a difference..

Also Generally for my Rebound and Compression settings on my shocks, should rears be stiffer or softer to start.. They are independently adjustable I just need a starting point

 

[steve13gt]

PS Its a track pack car so.. Torsen Diff, stock Pzero 200 treadwears, and of course brembos with the boss 302 pads

 

[Red_Devil]

Sounds like you have a great start! Getting the whiteline sway bars will be a big boost as well, but the upper control arm with the instant center adjustment is MASSIVE for the Mustang.

 

[foolio2k4]

Ive got the R2s as well. Its a great piece compared to many other coilovers out there.

Its softer than my previous Tein Flex setup but with better dampening all around.

I havent really set-up the suspension yet as I am still getting more seat time first but ive started out in the middle setting front and rear.

Upgraded brake fluids are always a good thing. Ive been using Motel RBF600 with good results.

I would also recommended a front brake duct kit to help cool the brakes.

 

[neema]

Brake fluid was an issue at the first few events I went to, so save yourself the trouble and put any high quality stuff in there. Also, try driving with stock suspension on the track at least once so you'll have a starting point. You'll quickly find what parts you need and with what priority they're needed.

Lastly, the stock axle breather sucks balls and spews diff fluid all over your axle and wheel when cornering hard. Get some sort of catch can on it (sometimes tough to find fittings that will clear your exhaust), or at the very least, the "turkey baster."

Have fun!

 

[STEVE_POE]

set your shocks in the middle and adjust from that . Nobody is going to be able to tell you what to set them at . your driving style, mods to the car , tires, tire size , even air pressures, wheel offsets etc etc and track itself will all play into how you want to adjust your shocks. learn how and what to change based on what your car is doing . simply turning knobs with no clue will not be good and you will probably would have been better on your stock stuff.


don't get into all the hype that you need all this stuff to start. If it's your first time out on a track I seriously doubt your going to be able to push this car into needing stuff when you first are starting.

just go get seat time and focus on driving instead of the car.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Steve speaks the truth... The only thing you NEED when first starting out is a helmet. After that, a decent "track" brake pad will extend (not increase) your enjoyment, since these heavy pigs tend to eat the stock pads very quickly.

The collective wisdom with mods is to wait until the CAR becomes the limiting factor, not the driver. At that point you'll have enough experience to judge what, exactly, is holding you back, then you can "fix" that... Lather, rinse, repeat.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Set your R2's up:

Compression Front- full "fast"/soft (all the way counter clockwise).

Compression Rear- one click "slow"/hard (all the way counter clockwise then one click clockwise).

Rebound Front & Rear- two clicks "slow"/hard (all the way counter clockwise then two clicks clockwise).

Do not force the adjusters at the end of their travel. They only need a very light touch.

That will get you started on the dampers. You will want to add more damping over the long run but if you start with more than that (above) you won't be able to feel what is going on with the car and will run the risk of tying the car down too much. Have fun!

 

[908ssp]

Make sure you check the clearance between the top of the front tires and the strut body where the swaybar mounts. I had to machine gmitch's car to clear. If I hadn't machined it he would have cut the tire down in no time.

 

[steve13gt]

What do you mean by "Tying the car down to much"?

Thanks everyone for your help so far

 

[Department Of Boost]

What do you mean by "Tying the car down to much"?

Thanks everyone for your help so far

Making the suspension too stiff.

 

[JAJ]

Set your R2's up:

Compression Front- full "fast"/soft (all the way counter clockwise).

Compression Rear- one click "slow"/hard (all the way counter clockwise then one click clockwise).

Rebound Front & Rear- two clicks "slow"/hard (all the way counter clockwise then two clicks clockwise).

Do not force the adjusters at the end of their travel. They only need a very light touch.

That will get you started on the dampers. You will want to add more damping over the long run but if you start with more than that (above) you won't be able to feel what is going on with the car and will run the risk of tying the car down too much. Have fun!

That's a perfect starting point for setting them up. Another useful guide to adjusting double-adjustable dampers is here:

http://www.koniracing.com/rrtuningguide.cfm

 

[steve13gt]

so for brake fluid, is Motul 5.1 okay? Or should I use a RPF 600 or 660.. I don't want brake fade if I can avoid it

 

[STEVE_POE]

brembo lcf600 is what we run and is pretty good stuff

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Motul RBF600 and Brembo LCF600 are both great fluids, but like any race-oriented non-synthetic, they are AGGRESSIVELY hygroscopic, in that the suck the moisture out of the air like a sponge. If you're going to run that type of fluid, first, make sure you FLUSH the system all the way through with the fresh fluid, and then plan on repeating that every six months. At $15 per half-liter (two and change per flush), that can get pricy long-term if you're not going to track the car.

Just starting out, I would just flush the system with fresh Motorcraft DOT3 fluid, and plan on doing a quick bleed over lunch.

 

[steve13gt]

The car is a 13, would I really need to flush the fluid all ready? I was thinking of just removing as much from the reservoir and putting in some 5.1 for a increase in performance

 

[Department Of Boost]

The car is a 13, would I really need to flush the fluid all ready?

Yes. Or just don't go crazy on the brakes all over the place. Its a track day, not a race.

 

[jymontoya]

I concur. First track day you should be fine all stock. Fresh fluids are always recommended, but your car is so new, it should be fine. Btw, topping off with new fluid won't help anything, as the stock fluid will still be in the system. Only helpful after a full flush purging all of the old fluid.

That said, I'd remove the brake dust shields just for a little added cooling, but not really a big deal your first time out.

Just show up with plenty of water, healthy snacks, and an open mind ready to listen.

 

[Jefro]

The stock fluid that the car came with has a BP of 500*. I've taken my car out several times and haven't had any brake fade due to the fluid being too hot

 

[SoundGuyDave]

500* when brand new... Brake fluid absorbs moisture like a hyperactive sponge, and as the moisture content increases, the boiling point plummets. I use Motul RBF600, do a prophylactic bleed on them at least once a day (Just a couple of pumps per corner), and a full flush every six months. After six months or so, the fluid is just junk, and I can pretty much boil it at will. That said, for a first-timer, I will give you 99% chance that you won't have any fluid issue that a simple bleed won't fix, and a 60% chance that you won't even have to do that, but I would still bring a bottle of brake fluid (whatever you use) to the track, just in case. If you don't use it, great! But if you do wind up needing it, it's nice to have on hand.