For those who have installed cams

PLee

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I would definitely recommend having somone there to help. You'll want them to hold the phaser as you remove the old cam and swap in the new one. Your steps sound correct to me. One thing I want to add that has not been menioned- the cam is keyed and fits into the phaser pretty precisely- just make sure you are comfortable w/ where the cam is seated into the phaser before you proceed, and don't rely on the bolt to seat it properly. Also- there is a good likelihood that one or two of the followers might fall off during reassembly; the angle of the head on the motor doesn't lend itself too well to them staying put. Don't panic- just place them back where they are supposed to be (look at a neighboring cylinder for reference) and keep on going. Oh, and I oiled the cam journals right before dropping it in and again before installing the caps; didn't want it starting up dry.
 

2kanchoo

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I was feeling adventurous and got the spring compressor tool to do it. It was really easy as well. The ford manual for removing cams is so complicated. Find top dead center, crank the engine this way, then that way, but only so far blah blah.

I used the method a mechanic that has changed a bunch of these told me. Pick any cylinder, turn the engine over till the exhaust valve is closed, remove that follower. Pick any other cylinder, and repeat, etc. You end up taking all the exhaust followers out, but after doing two it becomes easy. Atleast with this way there's no finding TDC, no worrying about turning it over too far or too little etc.
 

classix_stang289

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also keep your cam cap bolts clean of oil cause when you go to torque it and there is oil and whatever other shit on the bolts there is a GOOD chance when you torque them it wont torque properly so you dont want to go breaking bolts, brake clean them good!
 

UltraKla$$ic

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I used the method a mechanic that has changed a bunch of these told me. Pick any cylinder, turn the engine over till the exhaust valve is closed, remove that follower. Pick any other cylinder, and repeat, etc. You end up taking all the exhaust followers out, but after doing two it becomes easy. Atleast with this way there's no finding TDC, no worrying about turning it over too far or too little etc.

:wtf:Holy mackeral!!!! No way would I waste my time spinning the motor over so many times!!! There is a MUCH easier way. MUCH!!:dunce:

Glad it worked for you though.
 

JeremyH

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:wtf:Holy mackeral!!!! No way would I waste my time spinning the motor over so many times!!! There is a MUCH easier way. MUCH!!:dunce:

Glad it worked for you though.


+1 That sounds like alot of work for nothing lol. Just set the cam at the right spot from the get go which takes a minute, then you dont have to remove any followers. I agree MUCH easier this way lol
 

2k05gt

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I have done a cam swap 7 times without a spring compressor and it's worked out fine, Just watch out for the followers and make sure they do not slip off the valve. check them often as you tighten the bolts.
Trick is to tripple check everything as you go.
 

JeremyH

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I have done a cam swap 7 times without a spring compressor and it's worked out fine, Just watch out for the followers and make sure they do not slip off the valve. check them often as you tighten the bolts.
Trick is to tripple check everything as you go.


:thumb2:
 

wht67

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You forgot to mention the use of a back brace. You're gonna need it!! My back was KILLING me bent over loosening those cap bolts little by little for a total of 2 heads. I walked like Quasi Moto for 2 weeks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WTF!!!!!

I'm the process of doing springs, phaser limiters and cams and my back is killing me. I can only do about 1 or 2 hours at a time. I have the intake springs changed, when my back calms down some I'll start in on the exhaust springs.
 

cycosarge

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I'm getting ready to do this this weekend, I have the wedge tool but decided not to bother with the spring compressor. I am installing the Comp Cams NSR Stage 2 127205 cams. Is there anything else other than follower jumping out of position and clean cam bolts to worry about?
 

Daniel Day

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Leave the wedge in there until you are completely done tightening all the cam cap bolts etc. You definitely don't want the chain to slip and jump timing. Also be sure to lube the new cams and the journals really well with engine assembly lube(or oil). I also suggest you turn the engine over by hand(manually) a few times to make sure all the followers are seated correctly and that they don't fall or slip out.
 

classix_stang289

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have an oil based paint marker to mark the chain by some odd chance the chain jumps timing on you so you know where to set it back. Set at TDC and make your marks. May not need to get that extreme but i guess its extra security. Plug up oil passages and cover the areas where the phasers are so you dont drop anything in the motor. Take your time, have fun, and report back with the results!

Beer is also your friend when doing this
 

hollywood54

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ok doing the cams in the morning but have a question. I am changing motors since the old one blew up. so how do I make sure that the timing is right since I dont have any reference marking?
 

2kanchoo

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:wtf:Holy mackeral!!!! No way would I waste my time spinning the motor over so many times!!! There is a MUCH easier way. MUCH!!:dunce:

Glad it worked for you though.

LOL. I'd be willing to bet I could get the 4 followers out before you guys could slowly and evenly unbolt the caps. It's no extra time or work. :roflmao:
 

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