FPDM power output wire

[Timmbo]

I'm trying to confirm something before installing my Fore Level 4 return style system. I need to know what the "output" wire is from the FPDM module so I can route that to my Fore FC3 controller. Looking at the online manual I believe it is the pink and black wire. Would anyone with Fore return style pump system experience confirm this for me? I'm not sure Justin at Fore knows and I don't want to bother him unless I have to. Thanks!

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile=Electronic%20Engine%20Controls%20-%204.6L.pdf

 

[86GT351]

Hope this helps!

http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V356764448~C41686~R0~OB0~P5R3H~N/0/115013665/117095347/117099978/117099982/34853741/34869956/34869958/42027340/56472659/102381150/197122109/121928509


The Pink/Blk is your power feed to the pump!

 

[Timmbo]

Hope this helps!

http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V356764448~C41686~R0~OB0~P5R3H~N/0/115013665/117095347/117099978/117099982/34853741/34869956/34869958/42027340/56472659/102381150/197122109/121928509


The Pink/Blk is your power feed to the pump!

Ok so I would consider this to be the FDPM "output" correct.? Seems logical. I know a BAP splices in at the white wire off the inertia switch upping the voltage BEFORE the FDPM.

 

[86GT351]

Yes. That is your output voltage to the Fuel Pump

 

[Timmbo]

Yes. That is your output voltage to the Fuel Pump

Thank you.

 

[86GT351]

Any time!

 

[Scott]

Tim, not wanting to confuse things, but it looks like Bobby S&H is suggesting the "white" wire to the fpdm (violet for 2010) that should be the first wire in the fpdm plug. Goes to the "Remote" connection on the FC2/FC3 controller? (see thread below)

The "white" wire is the power wire to the fpdm module and the pink/blk is the power feed to the pump.

Wonder which is correct?


http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103977

BTW I did ask Justin Fore this question and his response was "Plug the factory pump power wire into the "REMOTE" terminal. This way, the FC2 will switch the pumps on/off as the factory intended."

 

[Timmbo]

Scott! Yes your confusing me now lol! I just sent Justin an email with a pdf copy of the Ford schematic for the FDPM. He's the man and I'm sure he will clear this up for me. Not doubting you either Nitro but just want to hear what Justin has to say. Will let you know when I hear back.

BTW, the power at the white wire on the FDPM originates at the fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood. The path of that wire then leads to the inertia switch and then to the FDPM to supply the module 12 volts. The white wire is not the "output". For instance a KB Boost a Pump splices right in between the white wire to increase voltage to the FDPM which in turn leaves the FDPM through the pink/black wire "output" to the pump to increase pump output. I'm almost 100% certain I need to use the pink/black wire that leaves the FDPM to the pump. When Justin and I spoke last time he said the "duty cycle protocol" needs to be shut off in the tune as well. So it's gotta be the pink and black wire IMO.

 

[Scott]

Great, looking forward to getting this cleared up!

Just finishing up a bracket this morning for mounting the fuel pressure regulator on the driver's side shock tower tab. Next up is determining where to locate the fuel feed distribution Y-Block.

 

[Timmbo]

Great, looking forward to getting this cleared up!

Just finishing up a bracket this morning for mounting the fuel pressure regulator on the driver's side shock tower tab. Next up is determining where to locate the fuel feed distribution Y-Block.

Looking forward to seeing that Scott. I was looking over the Y Block location last night. I'm thinking I will mount it behind the EVAP solenoid on that bracket so the block is between the bracket and the shock tower. I will have to buy two 90 degree Ans to make a clean straight shot of line from the Y-block to the front of the rails. With the Y-block there I should be able to mount the regulator on the shock tower tab. I was looking at it at 11:30 pm last night so I can't say for sure I'm 100% confident on the location just yet lol.

 

[Scott]

Tim, just in case you have not found these threads yet:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61578

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60412&highlight=fuel

 

[Timmbo]

^^ Good reads. Thanks.

 

[Timmbo]

Direct from the KING of customer service! Love this guy! :

Hi Tim,
You can use either...but I have a caveat. It's been brought to my attention that some tuning software cannot tolerate removal of the FPDM, which you're effectively doing by intercepting the white wire.

Having said that, you have more flexibility to use the Pink/Black, but you must "fix" or lock the duty cycle in the tune...the relays in the FC3 kick online at 6 volts and falls offline at 1.5 volts.

Either way, your tuner must also select the car has a "return" system so that the PCM neglects the FPDM monitor. (duty cycle)

Please let me know if you have any more questions!

Take care,
Justin

 

[Fullboogie]

Just to throw in a little more confusion, Timmbo - I would absolutely not rely on wire color to do this job. Use wire position in the FPDM plug and/or tracing voltage with a meter to be sure you are using the correct wire. Ford is notorious for randomly changing wire colors from year to year, and even within model years, for no apparent reason. It is well documented with both the GT and the GT500 guys.

 

[Timmbo]

Just to throw in a little more confusion, Timmbo - I would absolutely not rely on wire color to do this job. Use wire position in the FPDM plug and/or tracing voltage with a meter to be sure you are using the correct wire. Ford is notorious for randomly changing wire colors from year to year, and even within model years, for no apparent reason. It is well documented with both the GT and the GT500 guys.

Thank you. Will do. Justin just now sent me a followup email that also gives me the option of splicing into the white 12V FDPM power wire instead of intercepting and removing the FDPM from the circuit. The FC3 controller relay only needs 40- 60 milliamps. I'm probably going to go this route since my wire was already spliced there for my old KB Boost a Pump. Plus this way the tuner doesn't have to manipulate the duty cycle settings in the tune.