Front control arm R&R

[DTL]

Do you have to unbolt and move the EPAS on a 11+ to get the front bolt out of the front control arm? Just want to know how big of a hassle I'm in for. Thanks!

 

[DTL]

Got it done. For anyone who searches later here are the highlights:

No, you don't have to losen or pull the rack. Pull the tie rod end out of the spindle and crank the steering wheel away form the side you're working on. It's tight, but the bolt comes out of the arm.

I recommend pulling the whole spindle/hub assembly instead of leaving it hang from the strut. Opens up a lot more room.

 

[dream07]

Good to know. I always wondered why Ford didn't just put the nut on the rack side???

 

[tagle281]

SO did you put new arms or bushings?

 

[DTL]

bushings and tall ball joints

 

[tagle281]

Upgrading the bushings or did they go bad? I'm just asking cuz I'm getting some grunting/creaking from my front suspension.

 

[zeroescape]

All 5.0s have the bushing creak. I took the whole front chassis apart and the front LCA and swaybar do not move. They can suspend themselves in air just with the factory bushing bind. After pushing up and down on them, they will then return to original position as if they were elastic. Not the greatest setup.

 

[Whiskey11]

All 5.0s have the bushing creak. I took the whole front chassis apart and the front LCA and swaybar do not move. They can suspend themselves in air just with the factory bushing bind. After pushing up and down on them, they will then return to original position as if they were elastic. Not the greatest setup.

It's a great setup, if your goal is to eliminate NVH from the car. This is how rubber bushings in automobiles have worked for DECADES. That holds true for the rear end bushings as well and is EXACTLY the reason that you are required to torque the bolts on the suspension with the suspension loaded.

 

[DTL]

No wear, the car barely has 5k miles on it. It was just an upgrade. Even with the poly bushings, there's still some "spring" to the front arms, but not as bad as with the stock bushings.

 

[zeroescape]

It's a great setup, if your goal is to eliminate NVH from the car. This is how rubber bushings in automobiles have worked for DECADES. That holds true for the rear end bushings as well and is EXACTLY the reason that you are required to torque the bolts on the suspension with the suspension loaded.

yeah sure if reducing nvh is your thing.

 

[SCreemer]

All 5.0s have the bushing creak. I took the whole front chassis apart and the front LCA and swaybar do not move. They can suspend themselves in air just with the factory bushing bind. After pushing up and down on them, they will then return to original position as if they were elastic. Not the greatest setup.

I have the bushing creak too, BUT only the drivers' side - passenger side is silent.

Which bushing does the creaking? (the front one or the large rear hydro bushing) I want to try a rubber lubricant and see if I can eliminate the noise that way... otherwise I'll have to do what DTL did and replace stuff

Paul

 

[zeroescape]

I have the bushing creak too, BUT only the drivers' side - passenger side is silent.

Which bushing does the creaking? (the front one or the large rear hydro bushing) I want to try a rubber lubricant and see if I can eliminate the noise that way... otherwise I'll have to do what DTL did and replace stuff

Paul

I dont think it can be lubed. The rubber is bonded on there, most people use a torch to remove the rear bushing where the squeak comes from. The rubber is twisting itself like a torsional spring.

 

[2013DIBGT]

I have the bushing creak too, BUT only the drivers' side - passenger side is silent.

Which bushing does the creaking? (the front one or the large rear hydro bushing) I want to try a rubber lubricant and see if I can eliminate the noise that way... otherwise I'll have to do what DTL did and replace stuff

Paul

Not sure your aware of this or not but there is a TSB release from Ford on this issue. I had the latest revision control arms put in my car about 2months ago and they have been silent ever since. The new revision of the FLCA incorporate a heat shield over the Hydro bushings. Seems that all previous revisions failed to correct the issue.

You may be screwed getting Ford to cover you on the fix if previous suspension work has been done to the car though.

 

[SCreemer]

Not sure your aware of this or not but there is a TSB release from Ford on this issue. I had the latest revision control arms put in my car about 2months ago and they have been silent ever since. The new revision of the FLCA incorporate a heat shield over the Hydro bushings. Seems that all previous revisions failed to correct the issue.

This is good to know... info much appreciated.

You may be screwed getting Ford to cover you on the fix if previous suspension work has been done to the car though.

Already screwed x2 - my BtB warranty ran out in June (I have one of the earliest-production 2011's), and have Koni Yellows/GT-500 mounts/FRPP "P" springs installed.

I hate the thought of replacing a perfectly good working part simply because it makes noise. The dealership was "happy" to inform me my warranty is expired, and that "glee" in their announcement didn't sit well with me. Maybe I should start making some human "creaking" noises and see if I can brow-beat them into covering it...

In any event, DTL's instructions give me confidence to do my own re & re if I decide to replace them.

Paul

 

[tagle281]

Not sure your aware of this or not but there is a TSB release from Ford on this issue. I had the latest revision control arms put in my car about 2months ago and they have been silent ever since. The new revision of the FLCA incorporate a heat shield over the Hydro bushings. Seems that all previous revisions failed to correct the issue.

You may be screwed getting Ford to cover you on the fix if previous suspension work has been done to the car though.

Can you post the part numbers?

 

[2013DIBGT]

Here are the details of the TSB

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/pubs/content/~WT/~MUS~LEN/3599/tsb13-09-03.htm

 

[Racer47]

No wear, the car barely has 5k miles on it. It was just an upgrade. Even with the poly bushings, there's still some "spring" to the front arms, but not as bad as with the stock bushings.

What bushings did you go with?

 

[DTL]

I don't recall the brand name. They were a poly replacement.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

What bushings did you go with?

I installed a set of Steeda Prothane bushings on my '13 GT almost a year ago. Removing the stock bushings wasn't easy, but the end result was definitely worth it.

http://i1351.photobucket.com/albums/p790/10HUTT/2013 Mustang GT/image_zps2bb2a477.jpg
http://i1351.photobucket.com/albums/p790/10HUTT/2013 Mustang GT/image_zps244e1bde.jpg
http://i1351.photobucket.com/albums/p790/10HUTT/2013 Mustang GT/image_zpsdb01d1d9.jpg

 

[Racer47]

i may just go with these and save the aggravation of removing the bushings, plus i want the taller ball joint.

http://www.steeda.com/store/11-mustang-front-lower-control-arms-with-bushings-777-4900/