Fuel Upgrade, FPDM ?

[JeremyH]

Okay first off this is what I have planned. Stock fuel hat with 2 supercar pumps spliced with single stock fpdm with upgraded wiring. NO BAPS! 62lbers, 500-600rwhp with a turbo.

Why is the FPDM in the trunk? Does it get hot? I would like to move it out of the trunk as i have pulled my stock spare bc i cant use it with the 14" rotors i have. I also removed the trunk liner since i have no room in my trunk and i will have to get a full size spare soon.

I am also getting water leakage into the trunk that i havent located yet and dont want the fpdm getting wet or stuff in my trunk sliding around and possible damaging the fpdm.

I planned on getting the lethal fpdm wire upgrade kit (45$) but for the $ im looking into doing it myself, moving it into the car behind the passenger side wall trim next to the seat where the fuel pump is, so Im not going to need all the wiring length that the lethal kit comes with.

What all would i need besides some thicker gauge wire 8 or 10 to cut/splice/solder it up and move it into the car.

Which wires do i need to upgrade and from where.
Should i run an inline fuse?

If anyone has messed with the fpdm wiring or moved it any insight would be appreciated before i start this project.

Thanks.

 

[05stroker]

I used this to wire mine . You would just tee off the wires instead of useing the second fpdm .

 

[tillman speed]

I would leave the FPDM in the trunk. Voltage drop issues are the last thing that you want. It will be fun for whoever's tuning it to figure out why fuel pump voltage is going crazy. I've seen it try to so hard to jack up the fuel pump voltage to sustain pressure all because of wiring problems (whether it be the need for another ground coming off of the FPDM, or a larger diameter wire, or just bad wiring in general). Whether it be voltage supply, or whatever... it's alot easier to keep that location in the trunk.

The other thing is that you may want to go with an upgraded FPDM instead of taxing the crap out of the stock FPDM. This is where people start saying "I see why people just purchase the GT500 system".

500-600RWHP is possible with maybe 40-50psi through those injectors. What about using an MDM jr or something similar? Are you trying to do this on a budget or are you unhappy with having to run a second module? I love the supercar pumps, too. There's no problem with the stock fuel hat, even though a nice Fore Precision one would be sweet if you wanted to go aftermarket line. Running an MDM or dual FPDMs with a home-made wiring upgrade is inexpensive, easier to tune and more reliable than relying off of one FPDM.

 

[JeremyH]

I used this to wire mine . You would just tee off the wires instead of useing the second fpdm .

Thanks for the link thats exactly what i needed!

 

[JeremyH]

I would leave the FPDM in the trunk. Voltage drop issues are the last thing that you want. It will be fun for whoever's tuning it to figure out why fuel pump voltage is going crazy. I've seen it try to so hard to jack up the fuel pump voltage to sustain pressure all because of wiring problems (whether it be the need for another ground coming off of the FPDM, or a larger diameter wire, or just bad wiring in general). Whether it be voltage supply, or whatever... it's alot easier to keep that location in the trunk.

The other thing is that you may want to go with an upgraded FPDM instead of taxing the crap out of the stock FPDM. This is where people start saying "I see why people just purchase the GT500 system".

500-600RWHP is possible with maybe 40-50psi through those injectors. What about using an MDM jr or something similar? Are you trying to do this on a budget or are you unhappy with having to run a second module? I love the supercar pumps, too. There's no problem with the stock fuel hat, even though a nice Fore Precision one would be sweet if you wanted to go aftermarket line. Running an MDM or dual FPDMs with a home-made wiring upgrade is inexpensive, easier to tune and more reliable than relying off of one FPDM.

Yes on a budget but dont mind spending money where its needed.
I already have the 2 supercar pumps with double pump install kit, and 62lb injectors which i got for great prices by shoppin around.

I love the fore hat but for that $ im going to definetly pass.

Im not unhappy with a second module just the price lol, considered gettin a second fpdm one for each pump and upgrading the wiring for both as well but the $400+ price tag steered me away.

If the single with upgraded wiring isnt cutting it for those 2 pumps i will look into getting a second from there.

 

[JeremyH]

Wouldnt happen to have the stock gt fuel pump/fpdm wiring diagram pdf as well?

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Moving the FPDM to near the pump would be a great idea. You'd shorten the wiring run to the pump by about 10' total (5' each way). Why is it really in the trunk? that's a good question.
Power fed to the FPDM goes through the inertia cut-off switch. If that was in the trunk, it would make sense having it close to the fpdm. Of course it's normally dry in the trunk, so if they wanted to keep it dry somewhere, the cabin or trunk makes sense. To me, mounting it up under the dash by the inertia switch, then run wires to the back seat and to the pump, is the shortest route for wiring.

I did a wiring upgrade, running larger wire all the way to the FPDM, then larger power wires back to the pump hat connector. Wasn't hard, but cutting out a lot of that wiring could only help.

The only voltage drop issues were with too-small stock power wires feeding into the fpdm and then from there to the pump; when the pump was really pushed and drew more current, the wiring was a little small. The upgrade really does help.

For the wiring, lookup that online service manual's wiring diagrams, it should be in there. Not sure how much it is the same on '05/06, but should be very similar.

 

[JeremyH]

Found this searching seems similar to what you did, posting it here so i will have all the info for quick reference.
http://www.vmptuning.com/forum/showthread.php?t=633

http://www.mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2011-mustangs/504117-gt500-fuel-pumps-diy-w-pictures.html

 

[JeremyH]

I know on my 01 GT the fuel pump inertia reset was in the trunk, hmmm.
Yeah i am confident in my electrical/wiring skills to move the fpdm and shorten the wires by the tank would be great or under the dash near the inertia switch is not a bad idea either!

Wouldn't it be a little easier running the thicker gauge from the sjb with an add a fuse 12v key on source so you wouldnt need a relay when running right off the battery. Less wiring too.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

I ran my power from the fuse center under the hood, and all the way to the back to where I mounted the relay (with a fuse up front of course), and the other side of the relay feeds the fpdm power. I did it this way so the relay would be near the fpdm, and I only had to run 1 wire, to the relay, and let the inertia power connect to the relay near the fpdm and energize the relay.

This kept the inertia switch in place for safety, as well as providing the key-on power needed to energize the relay.

Sure, I'd rather would have the relay closer to the power source, but it works well. And now that you mention relocating the fpdm, that would be even better.

Oh, I generally followed the VMP thread, too.

 

[JeremyH]

Okay im going to be using 10 gauge wire, 30 amp inline fuse.
Add a fuse 12v source from the sjb fuse panel vs the engine bay fuse panel.
And mount the fpdm near the pump on the side framing behind the plastic trim, i have had this trim off when installing the mounts for my vert lightbar so i know there is room.

Yeah, without the relay it looks like the extra 12v key source would overide the inertia switch so i will get a relay and install it near the fpdm after i relocate it.
What relay did you use? one like the ones in
the fuse panel under the hood? i think theres a spare in there actually.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

I used a regular 30A automotive relay. As far as power from the SJB, make sure that power source is PLENTY BIG to provide the current you'll use through the larger 8 ga wire. Otherwise you'll draw down the power to the SJB and not get the benefit of the upgrade.

Otherwise sounds like you got it figured out!

 

[JeremyH]

I hear that, there are two slots on the sjb that are hot with straight 12v and the main power for the sjb comes right off the underhood panel i have an add a fuse in one of the slots right now for my line lock. I will take voltage/current readings at the sjb, underhood at the fuse panel and off the batery and see what i come up with.
Thanks for the tips/help!!

 

[JeremyH]

Does autozone have these relays in stock i imagine or is there a cheaper place online to get some of this stuff?

 

[MLC40]

Does autozone have these relays in stock i imagine or is there a cheaper place online to get some of this stuff?

Whne I did my big wiring project I bought from these guys...

http://www.boardrelays.com/?gclid=COOB2uHb0JcCFQJNagodBUzFDg

 

[JeremyH]

Sweet thanks for the link

 

[JeremyH]

Looks like this one will work and has a mount for easy install since it wont be going on a cb.
http://www.boardrelays.com/Detail.asp?Product_ID=303.140_5035

 

[JeremyH]

Started the relocation process
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30559

 

[JeremyH]

Just bought my wiring upgrade kit made it out for 15$ shipped at
http://www.parts-express.com/electronic-components.cfm

-12ft of 10 gauge wire
-10 gauge inline fuse holder w/ 30amp fuse
-5 pin 30/40amp double load bosch relay

Will be installing and making the DIY writeup soon.

 

[JeremyH]

Well the wiring upgrade is in and working good. I decided to run it right off the battery, no muss no fuss. The 30 amp fuse is inline right off the battery and the relay is about 6 inches from the fpdm by the fuel pump where i relocated it. Will post some pics up when i get a chance. Have a little tweaking to do still, when i install the ford gt pumps, i plan on running some thicker gauge wire into the fpdm plug from the new relay and thicker awg out from the fpdm down to the fuel pumps. Which is gonna take a bit more work to solder the thicker wires right into the plug.