Help Me Spend Some Money

[46addict]

What all is involved in a 6060 swap?

 

[Candy10]

What all is involved in a 6060 swap?

I honestly don't know, yet. Lots of learning to do still.

 

[modernbeat]

We've done the Tremec swap. Here's a Laguna Seca we did the trans on.

The parts aren't cheap, but for a track car it's worth it.

My recommendations are straight from my experience building our stock motored Time Trial car. It's going to be 18x11 with 315 tires, or 18x13 and 18x14 with 335/345 tires depending on whether you are willing to flare the car or not. Then back that up with a double adjustable with remotes MCS monotube damper and real spring rates. Put a T2R in the rear axle and add adjustable arms with sphericals for a track only car, or bushings for a dual purpose car. Use a Watts link with the propeller on the axle. Even though we used the OEM Brembos up front and the GT500 in the rear, today I'd use a real racing brake for a dedicated car. We've been using Powerbrake with good results. Add the racing module to the ABS unit. For aero, the AJ Hartman wing combined with a custom splitter and ducted (not just vented) hood. Don't forget the safety equipment, including at a minimum a rollbar (I prefer the Maximum Motorsport parts here) seats and a harness.

 

[46addict]

What do you consider real spring rates? I'd imagine stiffer rates are useless without the tires to support them. Am I right in thinking a 450-550F and a 300-350R is about right for a street HPDE car on a 18x10 setup with 200ish UTQG tires?

 

[Candy10]

We've done the Tremec swap. Here's a Laguna Seca we did the trans on.

The parts aren't cheap, but for a track car it's worth it.

My recommendations are straight from my experience building our stock motored Time Trial car. It's going to be 18x11 with 315 tires, or 18x13 and 18x14 with 335/345 tires depending on whether you are willing to flare the car or not. Then back that up with a double adjustable with remotes MCS monotube damper and real spring rates. Put a T2R in the rear axle and add adjustable arms with sphericals for a track only car, or bushings for a dual purpose car. Use a Watts link with the propeller on the axle. Even though we used the OEM Brembos up front and the GT500 in the rear, today I'd use a real racing brake for a dedicated car. We've been using Powerbrake with good results. Add the racing module to the ABS unit. For aero, the AJ Hartman wing combined with a custom splitter and ducted (not just vented) hood. Don't forget the safety equipment, including at a minimum a rollbar (I prefer the Maximum Motorsport parts here) seats and a harness.

Yes, MM 4 point with swing out door bars and harnesses is already in the works. I want a seat, too, but as wide as my back/shoulders are, I need to sit in a few before buying.

As far as the other stuff you listed, Ill address each one in time. Im not going as far as remote dampers, I think Bilsteins will suite my goals.


What additional mods, if any, need to be made to fit 18x11s? Rolled fenders at a minimum Im guessing, as my 305s are already close.

Would you be willing to provide me a parts list for the 6060 swap? If I buy my dampers from you?

 

[Speedboosted]

Yes, MM 4 point with swing out door bars and harnesses is already in the works. I want a seat, too, but as wide as my back/shoulders are, I need to sit in a few before buying.

As far as the other stuff you listed, Ill address each one in time. Im not going as far as remote dampers, I think Bilsteins will suite my goals.


What additional mods, if any, need to be made to fit 18x11s? Rolled fenders at a minimum Im guessing, as my 305s are already close.

Would you be willing to provide me a parts list for the 6060 swap? If I buy my dampers from you?

I can provide you with a 6060 swap list as I'm doing it currently. You need...
Driveshaft, 26 spline clutch, and to wire the reverse lockout up in some way. That's it, other than trans and the shifter of course. Someone, Samco maybe, makes a module for $100 that ties into the speed sensor and the reverse lockout functions just as it would in a gt500, allowing you to go into reverse at speeds under 5mph. Other people wire it to the brake lights, so you have to have your foot on the brake to put it into reverse. I'm still undecided on what I want to do with mine. And by the way, Samuel Misrasi (19Cobra93 on here) is about to sell his freshly built 6060 for a very good price, poor thing hasn't even made it into his car yet. I can get you in touch with him if you don't go on Facebook, but I highly recommend it. Some great deals on there.

No additional mods at all, not even spacers, are required to get Vorshlag's 18x11 setup on the car. The only requirement is some decent negative camber up front, at least 1.5* I believe. You could also remove the rear bumpstop brackets if you don't have a watts link, but even if you do it wouldn't be a terrible idea since it eliminates any possibly and there is really no downside. I run the Whiteline rear sway bar that mounts like the old school solid axle cars and provides much more inboard wheel room, I've chopped off my factory rear sway bar mounting bracket so I have no idea if those get into the way...I don't believe they do.

 

[Rasmus]

You also need the transmission cross member.

You don't necessarily need to wire the reverse lockout up.

 

[modernbeat]

What do you consider real spring rates? I'd imagine stiffer rates are useless without the tires to support them. Am I right in thinking a 450-550F and a 300-350R is about right for a street HPDE car on a 18x10 setup with 200ish UTQG tires?

Those rear rates are ridiculous. Really. We tested them with 345 Hoosiers and great downforce and they were unusable.

For most street tire setups I'd recommend a 450 front and 175 rear. If you are going to use Hoosiers, or have REAL aero, then a bump to to 600-550f/250r. The final spring rates we used on big red with 335/345 Hoosiers and aero were 800f/275r.

 

[46addict]

Was that with or without a rear swaybar?

 

[01yellerCobra]

Too bad you're wanting to turn left and right. I have a Boss block I've been thinking about letting go. It has rods and a crank, but needs pistons.

 

[BruceH]

I know where a whole car with a 6060 and forged motor can be had for your budget.

Someone already touched on the most economical route. Build a forged rods and pistons short block, put your parts back on but with a different blower, and still have lots left over for the suspension.

Just recently someone posted up a link to new TR6060 transmissions for $2k. A stock 6060 is very strong and it shifts light years ahead of the 3650.

You could keep it in budget real easy if you did your own work and shopped around a little.

Edit: A 6060 swap is as easy as changing a clutch. You need the transmission, driveshaft, 26 spline clutch (you can have your current clutch disk rehubbed to save money) transmission mount, shifter, and two shifter pins. That's it.

 

[Boone]

Too bad you're wanting to turn left and right. I have a Boss block I've been thinking about letting go.

I'm using a BOSS50 block in a corner carver, and I don't have any complaints. 417 NA whp on 93 octane and the ability to put any FI system I want on at a later date to make sick power. TBH, if my Al block had not already been bored 30 over when I needed to rebuild, I would have kept the Al block. As it is with the BOSS50, my car can sustain 1.0g for extended periods of time on 260TW street tires that are 5 years old. Not bad for the heavy pig it is.

 

[01yellerCobra]

I'm using a BOSS50 block in a corner carver, and I don't have any complaints. 417 NA whp on 93 octane and the ability to put any FI system I want on at a later date to make sick power. TBH, if my Al block had not already been bored 30 over when I needed to rebuild, I would have kept the Al block. As it is with the BOSS50, my car can sustain 1.0g for extended periods of time on 260TW street tires that are 5 years old. Not bad for the heavy pig it is.

I was mainly being a smart ass while saying I have a block I might let go if he's interested. I know iron isn't ideal, but it can work.

 

[Boone]

Where was your smartass self when I was dropping all kinds of cash on a BBB setup? All good.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[01yellerCobra]

Where was your smartass self when I was dropping all kinds of cash on a BBB setup? All good.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Lol. I was probably trying to decide if I wanted to keep it for myself.

 

[Candy10]

I can provide you with a 6060 swap list as I'm doing it currently. You need...
Driveshaft, 26 spline clutch, and to wire the reverse lockout up in some way. That's it, other than trans and the shifter of course. Someone, Samco maybe, makes a module for $100 that ties into the speed sensor and the reverse lockout functions just as it would in a gt500, allowing you to go into reverse at speeds under 5mph. Other people wire it to the brake lights, so you have to have your foot on the brake to put it into reverse. I'm still undecided on what I want to do with mine. And by the way, Samuel Misrasi (19Cobra93 on here) is about to sell his freshly built 6060 for a very good price, poor thing hasn't even made it into his car yet. I can get you in touch with him if you don't go on Facebook, but I highly recommend it. Some great deals on there.

No additional mods at all, not even spacers, are required to get Vorshlag's 18x11 setup on the car. The only requirement is some decent negative camber up front, at least 1.5* I believe. You could also remove the rear bumpstop brackets if you don't have a watts link, but even if you do it wouldn't be a terrible idea since it eliminates any possibly and there is really no downside. I run the Whiteline rear sway bar that mounts like the old school solid axle cars and provides much more inboard wheel room, I've chopped off my factory rear sway bar mounting bracket so I have no idea if those get into the way...I don't believe they do.

You also need the transmission cross member.

You don't necessarily need to wire the reverse lockout up.

Those rear rates are ridiculous. Really. We tested them with 345 Hoosiers and great downforce and they were unusable.

For most street tire setups I'd recommend a 450 front and 175 rear. If you are going to use Hoosiers, or have REAL aero, then a bump to to 600-550f/250r. The final spring rates we used on big red with 335/345 Hoosiers and aero were 800f/275r.

Too bad you're wanting to turn left and right. I have a Boss block I've been thinking about letting go. It has rods and a crank, but needs pistons.

I know where a whole car with a 6060 and forged motor can be had for your budget.

Someone already touched on the most economical route. Build a forged rods and pistons short block, put your parts back on but with a different blower, and still have lots left over for the suspension.

Just recently someone posted up a link to new TR6060 transmissions for $2k. A stock 6060 is very strong and it shifts light years ahead of the 3650.

You could keep it in budget real easy if you did your own work and shopped around a little.

Edit: A 6060 swap is as easy as changing a clutch. You need the transmission, driveshaft, 26 spline clutch (you can have your current clutch disk rehubbed to save money) transmission mount, shifter, and two shifter pins. That's it.

Thanks, all of you, for the input. The new job has left me no time to get on here, 11am-9pm is a shitty shift.

I need to have the money in hand before I commit to anything, I feel kinda dumb doing it beforehand, but you all have been very helpful.

Leaning heavily towards Vorshlag, too much testing and knowledge to ignore.

 

[Speedboosted]

You also need the transmission cross member.

You don't necessarily need to wire the reverse lockout up.

Figured the cross member and shifter was a given with the trans lol. But I guess some people sell it without the cross member?

I'm curious why you don't think the reverse lockout is important...you do know where reverse is in a 6060 don't you?

 

[Speedboosted]

Those rear rates are ridiculous. Really. We tested them with 345 Hoosiers and great downforce and they were unusable.

For most street tire setups I'd recommend a 450 front and 175 rear. If you are going to use Hoosiers, or have REAL aero, then a bump to to 600-550f/250r. The final spring rates we used on big red with 335/345 Hoosiers and aero were 800f/275r.

Unusable in what way?


Sorry this isn't multi quoted Dave

 

[BruceH]

Figured the cross member and shifter was a given with the trans lol. But I guess some people sell it without the cross member?

I'm curious why you don't think the reverse lockout is important...you do know where reverse is in a 6060 don't you?

I'll answer this one. Because it's fairly easy to push past the spring loaded "lockout" with a stock shifter when you want to. A lockout bypass is a good idea with a weaker aftermarket shifter but the stock shifter works just fine without it.

Do you need a lockout bypass?

 

[slow06stang]

I never installed anything for reverse in my swap it works fine. My wife can push past the spring loaded lockout.