How much will arms help??

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I have been running stock lower control arms forever. I have BMR upper with spherical bearing, and BMR mount. I sixty in the 1.5's with the mods listed blow in sig. I ordered a set of Steeda lowers with poly on both ends. Also ordered Steeda's spherical bushing for the 3rd link housing. Just wondering if the suspension pros think these additions will get me in the 1.4 sixty foot?
 

Sharad

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IMO, sphericals on the LCAs would make more sense if you're shooting for lower 60-foot times. The technical answer to your question is, maybe. It'll definitely be more STABLE on your new arms. Lower 60-foot is possible.
 

BMR Tech

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A stick shift Roush Vert...on a Radial, you are doing well IMO.

I agree with Sharad - I would have gone with bearing LCA, especially since you already have the Bearing UCA.

Stick shift cars need a bearing LCA, IMO.

I would also recommend doing a Poly diff bushing. Having a bearing on each end is somewhat overkill IMO, and is going to increase the NVH about 10x....as you will not have anything keeping that UCA bearing indexed (straight up and down, not bottoming out)

You may reduce your sixty foot times, but I am unsure of the durometer of those LCA you acquired. If they are 90+durometer, I would just about guarantee you can reduce your sixty foot.
 
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I appreciate the replies. I had a steeda poly bushing in the 3rd link, but it came apart, and I hate doing stuff twice. If the nvh is too bad, I guess I will be doing it 3 times. Thanks again
 

Rokkit

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Hey DW how does your car like the m/t because mine hates the et street radial2 295/55/15 thinking about selling them after only about 10 passes and switching to the hoosier qtp 26x11.5. it seems as if it hits them really hard on the launch at the track which sends a shock to my drivetrain. correct me if you think im wrong. but i am on this thread because my car is lowered and i am thinking about doing upper and lower lca's with relocation. any suggestions will def be taken into consideration. but i guess what i am asking is what will i notice with doing the upper and lower lca in gain or loss and launch. with 3.73s and the tr3650 it spins the hell out of the m/t on the street at a 3k launch and anything less then that is a bog and at the track i have to launch around 5k to keep from bogging. thinking of stepping up to a 4.10... sorry for the rambling
 
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I loved 4.10's with the 3650. The biggest difference will be with the relocation brackets. They keep the car from sqatting, and plant the tires. Also, my radials are the pros, which only come in 275/60/15. They are the ultimate radial.
 

Rokkit

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yea the squat sucks and hurts 60' times. i can see that your car hooks pretty good with them.. i guess i will get the relocation kit and upper and lowers before i decide to sale my tires and if they continue to be a prob then i will most likely get rid of them for something better.. day and night diff after you did lca's?
 
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Just installed the lca's today. I will try them out Thursday night at our weekly testntune. I hope they get me in the 1.4's on my 60ft. Relocation brackets made the biggest change for me. And the radial pro is the only tireason for me. I tried bias ply et streets, and could not hook. No 2 cars are the same. Everyone says a stick shift shouldn't use a radial, but it's perfect for my car
 

Rokkit

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i see i also read the same which made me question my selection on tires... how many psi r u running? as for me im running 18 n i feel that that may be kind of low for a radial.. but your car sure seems to be hookin' damn good as of now... my best 60' so far has been a 1.94 on the m/t n thats terrible.. let me know how things go for u after lca's.. lol i almost forgot that ur running 4.10s and the go go gadget juice.. i would be stoked to pull a 1.5 60' some day soon.
 
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16.5 psi in the pros. Seems to be what most people say is ideal. Works well for that tire.
 

Pentalab

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On a lowered car...the bmr lca relocate brackets are a must have item. The last thing you want is lca's that are higher at the axle end... (you will be taking weight off the rear axle when gas mashed). Use the top or middle hole on the bmr relocate brackets..and you add weight to the rear axle when you accelerate.

I can't fathom how you can get these cars to work, when lowered and no relocate brackets used.
 
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I don't know what durometer the bushings in the steeda arms are, but they are pretty dang stiff. If the 3rd link bearing is unbearable, I will try another poly
 

Rokkit

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well relo brackets and upper n lower lcas it is along with 4.10 for the next mods
 

Sharad

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That is typically the case.

Sharad, you reading this? ;)


Relo brackets serve a purpose.

This is why I only recommend them under specific circumstances. (not a UPR customer)

IMG_9765_zps2ddfdefa.jpg
 
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My relocation brackets allowed me to plant the tires, and drastically improve my 60ft. That pic from Mitchell's car shows an unfortunate result of increasing the power planted to the track. I welded and braced my tubes after seeing him twist his tube the first time, before the wreck.
 

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