Oh shit!! Im sorry!! I should have never said anything if I knew you had proof like that!!! What a friggin dumbass I am..
ROFLMAO......
That is some stellar,sure thing, undisputed, slam dunk, undeniable, and unquestionable proof right there!
Listen guys - back when you were thinking about owning a mustang of your own, I was trying every street tire, DR, and slick known to mankind. Let my exhaustive time and wasted money be an example for you and let me tell you what is fact...
#1 - NO NON DR STREET TIRE HOOKS FOR SHIT
#2 - The MT ET Street with the M5 compound of the ET drags is the best hooking DR for our cars. The Hoosier DR is in a respectable 2nd place - fuck everything else.
#3 - the TIRE HIEGHT is what you guys want to focus on. Width means squat - you want to get as large a 'footprint' as you can with your tire and launching after hooking is taken care of is all about that 'footprint' and the tire height. Not to mention, the taller the tire - the steeper you can go in your gears.
Everything is related to everything else. I always see so many of you guys talking about buying tires, then talking about a panhard bar... then some LCA's, then some shocks, etc, etc.
THE SECRET IS TO USE EVERYTHING IN CONJUNCTION WITH EACH OTHER TO GET THE MAXIMUM BENEFIT.
Just because you heard that the CA relocation brackets work great and you've heard an extreme anti roll bar work great doesn't mean combining the 2 will work great. In that exact example for instance - the anti roll bar works much better WITHOUT relocation brackets.
Coilovers work great in the front but work like shit in the rear on a 3 link suspension... the best springs are not as cut and dry as you guys read about on the forums - did you know that the right spring has everything to do with the weight of your car? and not just the total weight - but how your weight is distributed?
My point is that if you want to do it right, examine your entire suspension and make a plan up front for every piece you want to use and go from there. You don't have to buy everything up front, you can buy them piece at a time - but know up front exactly the entire set-up you are going to go with and run it by a pro to make sure it's right. make sure your 'pro' - is a guy who actually has nailed down 60' times in application and not just in 'theory'.
On the bone stock motor with a vortech s/c and completely stock rear end, (only 4.10 gears) through a stock manual transmission - I was cutting mid 1.5 60's 5 years ago at 450 rwhp
My 60's today on a factory 3 link set-up are always in the 1.3's and I've had a few in the 1.2's ... this is what I base my opinions on and nothing else. When you can cut better 60's than me - I'll be all ears to learn what tires I should use...