HSW Microedge settings / lets talk N2O

05stroker

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Okay so I have a HSW wet kit on my car. I am spraying post MAF about 6-8in from the TB. I have a HSW Microedge controller and need to know what rpms to spray at. I am spraying on top of 23 psi and have a screen shot below of what my shift points look like. The car is an auto so I do not lift off the gas unless I spin. I will be spraying a 75 shot for now.

If you look at the screen shot below, you can see I shift at 7000rpms and only fall back to 5800 on the shift. This is where I need advice on where to set the controller at. I have been told that I don't want to spray during a shift, is this true?

I would like to spray from 4000 rpms to 6800 in all three gears. Does it need to be set at 5900 - 6800 in second and third?

Any other settings or advice on the Microedge controller?

This is my first time to use nitrous, so I have may questions.

 

crownaviation

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My understanding is this... just theory on a boosted, sprayed car as I have only used the dry pre-maf with boost but..

On a stick car shifting is a problem if you spray as you unload the motor. Basically yours is always loaded when you shift and you do not see low rpm/load. Plus with all that boost you are not going to pool fuel as you do not spool down (especially with just a 75 shot). I have a friend here locally that runs a 100 wet shot (on his n/a 3v stick car) that does not lift when shifting and spraying thru the power shift. (Scares the shit out of me that he does that and has ZERO electronics with his nitrous... micro switch only) <<--- WOULD NEVER RECOMMEND THAT!!

On my little dry shot my car was always spraying as soon as the shift occurred as my rpm was instantly higher than my window trigger. I was using an electronic wot/window switch. I shut mine off at about 6500 rpm (a couple hundred rpm before I shift) so it is off when it shifts anyway, and thinking I may not even have to do that.

Maybe I am doing it wrong to, glad you posted it.

EDIT: With your HSW how do they recommend running it? I see they went out of business? Looks like a badass unit with all sorts of bells-n-whistles.. Not sure how you get the gear selector to work tho, thru the MLPS?
 
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ebrow21

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HSW as a company is kaput, I am pretty sure.

Turning a shot on/off/on like that can be hell on bearings and rings.

As you already have trans built to withstand the power, I don't see how spraying through the shift is any different than, say, turning the boost up.

Also, if your converter is unlocked through the first 3? gears it may not have the same rpm spread through the shift.
 

psfracer

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I have an auto---I always spray all the way through the run.

If your trans can handle the power, then don't worry about it. I would have it turn on at the desired rpm range, and shut off or ramp down on the big end as you are heading to the stripe.

Also, your first test pass, just go to the 1/8th. That way if you miss the tune up, you won't blow anything up.

Basically to get as much benefit as possible, you want to spray as soon as possible out of the hole. In my case, since I have a 5200 converter and a transbrake, I spray right out of the hole. Depending on the stall speed of your converter, it may come in a little later, but I think 4000 rpm is very safe.
 

psfracer

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Yep, don't spray until you release the transbrake (if you have one).

If you are on the two step--you could engage the N20 above whatever rpm you have the two step set to. What rpm are you leaving the line on the two step?
 

05stroker

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I am not running a 2 step or trans
brake yet. I do have them both on the car though.

Sounds like I need to set it up to spray from 4k to 6.5k since the stall is at 3800 and I shift at 7k. Should be a good starting point anyhow. Thanks for the input guys! Should be testing this the weekend after next.
 

psfracer

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That would be the safe way to do it if you are worried about the trans. You afraid the trans won't survive under full power? Like I said earlier, I spray all the way through--if your trans is strong enough you don't have to adjust anything with the N20 and the shift point.

Depending on how the track is hooking you may need to bring in the N20 a little later but that will be a good starting point. Trans brake is the way to go, once you try it you will never footbrake again, its awesome.
 

05stroker

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That would be the safe way to do it if you are worried about the trans. You afraid the trans won't survive under full power? Like I said earlier, I spray all the way through--if your trans is strong enough you don't have to adjust anything with the N20 and the shift point.

Depending on how the track is hooking you may need to bring in the N20 a little later but that will be a good starting point. Trans brake is the way to go, once you try it you will never footbrake again, its awesome.

No, the trans is solid, I have never shifted it though, thus I have not used the TB at the track. I want some consistent runs first and then I will shift it and use the TB and 2 step and the MSD DIS4 boxes that are bypassed right now and will see a larger plug gap. You know how it is when you want an everyday 8.50 street car! LOL
 

05stroker

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I have an auto---I always spray all the way through the run.

If your trans can handle the power, then don't worry about it. I would have it turn on at the desired rpm range, and shut off or ramp down on the big end as you are heading to the stripe.

Also, your first test pass, just go to the 1/8th. That way if you miss the tune up, you won't blow anything up.

Basically to get as much benefit as possible, you want to spray as soon as possible out of the hole. In my case, since I have a 5200 converter and a transbrake, I spray right out of the hole. Depending on the stall speed of your converter, it may come in a little later, but I think 4000 rpm is very safe.
With your stall being at 5200 where do you set your 2 step at?
 

psfracer

billy badass
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With your stall being at 5200 where do you set your 2 step at?

It varies. I have a MSD 7AL2 ignition box and I usually use anywhere from a 4500 chip to a 5000 chip--depending on track conditions. With a transbrake you get every bit of stall out of the converter, unlike foot braking.
 

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