I might buy a shortblock with a oil problem

mustangtcs

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Now that I got your attention. I could buy a 90k mile Longblock that had the oil pump backing plate leak issue. All I want is the crank and block. $200. What is the chance the block main journals and crank is wiped?

And if you think I should just steer away just say it.
 
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stkjock

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can you get pictures of it first?
 

mustangtcs

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He is an hour away. I thought about asking him to pull the main bearing caps for me to see. Talking to him he is very knowledgeable. But this is a price that is well worth it if the crank and block are good.

shit maybe I could scrap the aluminum for more?? If it's bad...
 
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stkjock

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$200 is more than worth it if the block is good
 

BruceH

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Now that I got your attention. I could buy a 90k mile Longblock that had the oil pump backing plate leak issue. All I want is the crank and block. $200. What is the chance the block main journals and crank is wiped?

And if you think I should just steer away just say it.

Never heard of that issue. How would you even know?
 

Wes06

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I think hes talking about the backplate flexing under load at higher rpm's causing oil to go out of the pump rather than into the engine.
 

BruceH

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I think hes talking about the backplate flexing under load at higher rpm's causing oil to go out of the pump rather than into the engine.

That seems impossible to me. But how would anyone know it was happening? I wonder if this has anything to do with the "oring" mod for the oil pump I read about but thought was a solution to a problem that didn't exist?
 

Wes06

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I saw a video of a pump where after certain rpms oil started overflowing around it.

One of the reasons many buy the billet backplate ontop of billet gears
 

BruceH

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Looks like the wrong pressure relief spring and or wrong oil viscosity was used for that video.

Snakeoil salesman.

Edit: Loose bolts holding the pump on to the block would do it too. Let's just say that to me it looks like a solution for a non existent problem. Keep in mind that I'm just a guy on the internet with opinions.
 
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Wild White Pony

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I think I would agree with Bruce on how the guy determined that this was a back plate issue in his statement about what went wrong. I not sure if a problem doesn't exit though, cause Ford and I bought some of that snake oil then when they made they steel back plate version and I upgraded to the steel back plate.

But for the price of $80.00 bucks I'm down for bottle even if I couldn't prove it works for sure.
 

05gtowner

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My builder says it is a real thing. I don't think Ford would have spent the $$ to come out with an updated back plate for no reason.
 

mustangtcs

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He has the motor out of the car and said that it was the plate on the back of the oil pump. He said it turns over by hand I just want the block and crank for a budget build.
 

BruceH

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My builder says it is a real thing. I don't think Ford would have spent the $$ to come out with an updated back plate for no reason.

The back plate was to prevent the pump gears from binding if a flexing event did occur. The billet backplate was only used on the 2013 and 2014 GT500.

That video is directed toward the 5.4 pickup guys who are very concerned about what kind of oil is best. The guys who have a "man card", lol. At least that's my opinion.

As far as a billet backplate goes it's a worthwhile thing to do if your motor is apart. The 2013 GT500 oil pump is identical to the 3v pump (it even has 3v cast into the housing) with the exception of the oil pressure relief spring. When I assembled my last motor I took a 2013 GT500 oil pump and changed the pressure spring to a 3v model. The reason for this is because I kept stock clearances throughout the motor with the exception of piston to wall and ring gaps. Those had to be changed due to the expansion of the alloy used for the pistons and the intended use of the motor.

Spring differences:



Backplates. One is a 3v and one is the billet:



Pumps disassembled side by side:





 

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