Idle issue after fixing no start...

[xkillerxnatedog]

Hey guys well i fixed my no start issue i was having with my 06 gt, it seemed it was my spark plugs all along causing a no start.. Well the car fires right up now but is still missing an idling way off an it seems to have a shake to it could this be signs of bad coil packs since my issue's was coming from my spark plugs in the begging or possibly does it have to do with me installing my new fuel pump.. I didn't have a check engine light on but one did pop up but im assuming its from me unplugging my maf sensor to see if it would fix the idle it seemed to help a little... Any ideas would be great thanks in advance... Also could it possibly be because i took my throttle body off an my tps an actuator needs to relearn idle? Was able to drive autozone an 3 different codes came up first one was a 02 sensor second one was torque something i can't remember exactly what he said an 3rd was retarded timing... So im confused now

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I don't think your plugs were the primary cause of the no start problem, but rather that they became fouled by multiple failed attempts to start the engine.
Pull them all out and give them a thorough cleaning.

 

[RLF9409]

Hey guys well i fixed my no start issue i was having with my 06 gt, it seemed it was my spark plugs all along causing a no start.. Well the car fires right up now but is still missing an idling way off an it seems to have a shake to it could this be signs of bad coil packs since my issue's was coming from my spark plugs in the begging or possibly does it have to do with me installing my new fuel pump.. I didn't have a check engine light on but one did pop up but im assuming its from me unplugging my maf sensor to see if it would fix the idle it seemed to help a little... Any ideas would be great thanks in advance... Also could it possibly be because i took my throttle body off an my tps an actuator needs to relearn idle? Was able to drive autozone an 3 different codes came up first one was a 02 sensor second one was torque something i can't remember exactly what he said an 3rd was retarded timing... So im confused now

I agree with Dino. Your plugs are fouled. either clean or replace...check the gap.
Really need to get the actual codes. A guess isn't going to help...
All the codes need to be cleared, drive it around the block and let it idle for a few mins. I am sure your exhaust is coated in unspent fuel...then see if codes come up.

 

[xkillerxnatedog]

I don't think your plugs were the primary cause of the no start problem, but rather that they became fouled by multiple failed attempts to start the engine.
Pull them all out and give them a thorough cleaning.

I replaced the spark plugs yesterday, because i noticed how bad the plugs we're fouled out when i took them out luckily they was still under warranty an i was able to exchange them out... Im not quite sure though why my car is still not idling right, an has a lack of power i do remember bank one had over retarted timing when i had the codes read, an feel like this is the main issue could my vct be going bad? I did a little researching an i unplugged both my vcts, an car seemed to idle way better but still has a lack of power.. When i plug them back in the idle likes to jump anywhere from 500 to about 1100 rms

 

[xkillerxnatedog]

I agree with Dino. Your plugs are fouled. either clean or replace...check the gap.
Really need to get the actual codes. A guess isn't going to help...
All the codes need to be cleared, drive it around the block and let it idle for a few mins. I am sure your exhaust is coated in unspent fuel...then see if codes come up.

Yes i replaced all the plugs because they was under warranty luckily, but im trying to figure out why bank 1 would have over retarted timing.. I feel like this is why the car is having idling issue an lack of power still... Can this be caused by bad vcts? Car seems to idle normal when unplugged but still has lack of power.. An runs rougher when plugged back in.. Also seems like the car doesn't wanna go past 30 to 40 mph an my wrench light pops up if i take the car into higher rpms..

 

[RLF9409]

Yes i replaced all the plugs because they was under warranty luckily, but im trying to figure out why bank 1 would have over retarted timing.. I feel like this is why the car is having idling issue an lack of power still... Can this be caused by bad vcts? Car seems to idle normal when unplugged but still has lack of power.. An runs rougher when plugged back in.. Also seems like the car doesn't wanna go past 30 to 40 mph an my wrench light pops up if i take the car into higher rpms..

If your check engine light is on, we need the codes.
Wrench is limp home mode. Your engine is trying to not eat itself...

 

[07 Boss]

Dude, pay attention to the codes! Write them down or get a print out!

Did I yell loud enough? Try switching the solenoids from side to side and see if the code switches sides. If it does you know you have a bad solenoid. If it stays you have a bad phaser or your timing chain is off. Do you know which side is over retarded?

 

[xkillerxnatedog]

Dude, pay attention to the codes! Write them down or get a print out!

Did I yell loud enough? Try switching the solenoids from side to side and see if the code switches sides. If it does you know you have a bad solenoid. If it stays you have a bad phaser or your timing chain is off. Do you know which side is over retarded?

Yes i know i forgot that they can print the codes out.... Im gonna go have them checked again is it safe to drive a car in limp mode just for a few miles going about 25 mph? An yes it said bank 1 timing over retarded ..

 

[01yellerCobra]

I'm gonna take a guess and say the phaser broke. Our 06 went through three phasers on the driver side. It threw a code for something with the cam sensor and the engine ran like crap.

 

[xkillerxnatedog]

I'm gonna take a guess and say the phaser broke. Our 06 went through three phasers on the driver side. It threw a code for something with the cam sensor and the engine ran like crap.

Well i took the car too 2 different places... At o'reillys there was 3 different codes that came up first one was b1318 for battery discharge or low voltage... 2nd one was b2295 for restraint air bag status, an 3rd one was p1000 for internal control module torque an guy said could be something with my maf sensor which i replaced already, or my throttle body like my tps or my throttle body actuator... An the only code that came up at advanced auto was p061b for internal control module torque... The codes i had last night went away besides the control module torque that seems to stay... An the over retarded timing on bank one went away.. So seems like my mine problem is coming from internal control module torque causing it to go into limp mode any ideas would be great.. So should i be looking at my tps or my throttle body actuator for the problem thats causing this?

 

[01yellerCobra]

The P1000 is the drive cycle code. It has to do with emissions.

I would pull the valve covers and make sure everything under there is good.

 

[07 Boss]

p1000 usually refers to the OBD readiness test not being ready and is pretty normal every time you clear codes until a drive cycle is complete. The air bag code I wouldn't worry about for now. The p061b code is the one you have to worry about. Now there could be a lot of things that contribute to this code as is usually accompanied by other codes which usually refer to a MAF or TB fault of some kind. But in your case it was accompanied by a low voltage code. Logically I would look at your MAF and TB again to make sure everything is good as you just worked on those pieces of the puzzle. But some faults can be triggered by low or fluctuating voltage also. You have to clear that code before you can move forward with the p061b code diagnostics. Have your alternator tested and be sure they perform a diode test as that is usually the failure. A bad diode can still make an alternator test show good for voltage and load so your normal testing will not show it. Low voltage can sometimes make many of the sensors and systems on our cars operate improperly so the PCM is getting weird signals and that it cannot figure out thus the torque calculation error. Fixing the b1318 may or may not clear up the torque calculation code but it has to be addressed first before moving on or we are just guessing.

 

[xkillerxnatedog]

p1000 usually refers to the OBD readiness test not being ready and is pretty normal every time you clear codes until a drive cycle is complete. The air bag code I wouldn't worry about for now. The p061b code is the one you have to worry about. Now there could be a lot of things that contribute to this code as is usually accompanied by other codes which usually refer to a MAF or TB fault of some kind. But in your case it was accompanied by a low voltage code. Logically I would look at your MAF and TB again to make sure everything is good as you just worked on those pieces of the puzzle. But some faults can be triggered by low or fluctuating voltage also. You have to clear that code before you can move forward with the p061b code diagnostics. Have your alternator tested and be sure they perform a diode test as that is usually the failure. A bad diode can still make an alternator test show good for voltage and load so your normal testing will not show it. Low voltage can sometimes make many of the sensors and systems on our cars operate improperly so the PCM is getting weird signals and that it cannot figure out thus the torque calculation error. Fixing the b1318 may or may not clear up the torque calculation code but it has to be addressed first before moving on or we are just guessing.

Okay so il go ahead an get the alternator checked first to see if i can get that issue cleared up... Does advanced auto zone or o'reillys able to check for low voltage on the alternators or is it something im gonna have to do myslef? So im in complete daze now.. so i swapped out my new maf sensor with my old one just so see what happens, an the car runs great like it should now an no check engine lights, no codes, no limp mode, or anything so i really don't understand how my car wouldn't run right with a new maf sensor an cause it to throw all those codes.. An had my alternator tested anyways an its good.. So im completely stumpped as to why it runs fine with the old maf an not the new one... An

 

[RLF9409]

Okay so il go ahead an get the alternator checked first to see if i can get that issue cleared up... Does advanced auto zone or o'reillys able to check for low voltage on the alternators or is it something im gonna have to do myslef? So im in complete daze now.. so i swapped out my new maf sensor with my old one just so see what happens, an the car runs great like it should now an no check engine lights, no codes, no limp mode, or anything so i really don't understand how my car wouldn't run right with a new maf sensor an cause it to throw all those codes.. An had my alternator tested anyways an its good.. So im completely stumpped as to why it runs fine with the old maf an not the new one... An

Yes. They will check your alternator.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

So im completely stumpped as to why it runs fine with the old maf an not the new one... An

Your whole story has had me stumped!

 

[GlassTop09]

Okay so il go ahead an get the alternator checked first to see if i can get that issue cleared up... Does advanced auto zone or o'reillys able to check for low voltage on the alternators or is it something im gonna have to do myslef? So im in complete daze now.. so i swapped out my new maf sensor with my old one just so see what happens, an the car runs great like it should now an no check engine lights, no codes, no limp mode, or anything so i really don't understand how my car wouldn't run right with a new maf sensor an cause it to throw all those codes.. An had my alternator tested anyways an its good.. So im completely stumpped as to why it runs fine with the old maf an not the new one... An

After reading 1 of your posts in another thread in which you had really given your own answer to this question when you had replaced the existing OEM Ford MAF sensor due to sensor housing damage w\ an aftermarket MAF sensor which depending on which brand it was, wasn't a pre-calibrated MAF sensor to OEM tune MAF calibrations thus threw the PCM off load calcs causing the issues & the P061B DTC. When you reinstalled the damaged but still functional OEM MAF sensor all righted itself thus issue went away.
If you're looking to use an aftermarket MAF sensor going forward make sure that the unit is a pre-calibrated unit meaning the manuf has calibrated it to match the stock OEM tune MAF calibration, otherwise you will need to have the unit calibrated by a tuner on a dyno to match up & work properly w\ the PCM.
The smart bet, as you have already found out, is to always replace an existing OEM Ford MAF sensor w\ a new version of the same...………….

On another note though, I wouldn't dismiss the B1 cam over retarding issue as that could have been due to a sticking VCT solenoid caused by the MAF issue causing the PCM to send the VCT into full 60* retard on both cams (which will cut power) but when the PCM called for the cams to be returned back towards base timing (full advance) B2 VCT functioned correctly but B1 VCT solenoid got stuck holding cam in full retard throwing the cams out of phase which will cause loss of power & power balance issues (engine shaking). When you unplug the VCT solenoid power connectors you cause the plungers to revert back to neutral position which then uses the engine oil pressure to force the cam phasers back to base timing, which according to your posting this did happen when you unplugged them so if I were you I'd get prepared to at least change the VCT solenoids out at some point as you've had your 1st warning...…..

Hope this helps...…..

 

[xkillerxnatedog]

After reading 1 of your posts in another thread in which you had really given your own answer to this question when you had replaced the existing OEM Ford MAF sensor due to sensor housing damage w\ an aftermarket MAF sensor which depending on which brand it was, wasn't a pre-calibrated MAF sensor to OEM tune MAF calibrations thus threw the PCM off load calcs causing the issues & the P061B DTC. When you reinstalled the damaged but still functional OEM MAF sensor all righted itself thus issue went away.
If you're looking to use an aftermarket MAF sensor going forward make sure that the unit is a pre-calibrated unit meaning the manuf has calibrated it to match the stock OEM tune MAF calibration, otherwise you will need to have the unit calibrated by a tuner on a dyno to match up & work properly w\ the PCM.
The smart bet, as you have already found out, is to always replace an existing OEM Ford MAF sensor w\ a new version of the same...………….

On another note though, I wouldn't dismiss the B1 cam over retarding issue as that could have been due to a sticking VCT solenoid caused by the MAF issue causing the PCM to send the VCT into full 60* retard on both cams (which will cut power) but when the PCM called for the cams to be returned back towards base timing (full advance) B2 VCT functioned correctly but B1 VCT solenoid got stuck holding cam in full retard throwing the cams out of phase which will cause loss of power & power balance issues (engine shaking). When you unplug the VCT solenoid power connectors you cause the plungers to revert back to neutral position which then uses the engine oil pressure to force the cam phasers back to base timing, which according to your posting this did happen when you unplugged them so if I were you I'd get prepared to at least change the VCT solenoids out at some point as you've had your 1st warning...…..

Hope this helps...…..

Well that certainty makes more sense to me now but i wouldnt have thought just a new maf aftermarket sensor could cause all these issues... So if i go ahead an get a oem maf sensor i shouldn't have any issues like i did with the aftermarket part when i install a new one.. An yea i figured bank 1 vct was going bad but luckily there not that hard to replace thus i dont have to remove my valve covers, or do i? I know certain years you got to an other ones you don't have too. Plus im still puzzled as to why my plugs got so fouled after replacing a fuel pump.. Causing my car not to start

 

[stkjock]

Get the same MAF that the car was tuned on

 

[GlassTop09]

Well that certainty makes more sense to me now but i wouldnt have thought just a new maf aftermarket sensor could cause all these issues... So if i go ahead an get a oem maf sensor i shouldn't have any issues like i did with the aftermarket part when i install a new one.. An yea i figured bank 1 vct was going bad but luckily there not that hard to replace thus i dont have to remove my valve covers, or do i? I know certain years you got to an other ones you don't have too. Plus im still puzzled as to why my plugs got so fouled after replacing a fuel pump.. Causing my car not to start

As far as whether the VCT solenoids can be replaced w\o removing the valve cover.....it will depend on whether the engine has the original 3V valve cover design or the later redesigned ones installed but to identify this is actually pretty easy. Looking at the VCT solenoid seal in valve cover, if the VCT solenoid is offset (not in the center) of the seal then it can be changed out w\o removing the valve cover. If it is centered in the seal then you'll have to remove the valve covers to change them out.
As for the engine flooding after installing a new fuel pump, I can envision a few ways this can happen but the most common 1 is a fuel line pressure spike/surge from the new pump on initial turn on signal from KOER that sent fuel rail pressure well above the 39-43 psi (50+ psi or higher) referenced fuel rail pressure until the PCM could correct it thru the FPDM which can cause the injectors to over spray fuel & flood out the engine.

Hope this helps.

 

[Derf08]

I'm curios what your fuel trims and timing looks like from a live data PID readout? A messed up phaser or VCT will have your timing jumping all over the place and a bad MAF will have your fuel trims pretty jacked up while your upstream O2 sensor readings on both bank 1 and 2 are going nuts.