Inside Tire Wear

Norm Peterson

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the fact is no one has presented any proof that these are breaking left and right and are a saftey hazard at all. most are just assuming they are cause they "look weaker". and sure they do look weaker,(they have a weird cam and sharp looking edges, "bad engineer, bad!") but they also could be hardened, which i'm pretty sure the factory ones aren't.
I just went out and looked - even the older coarse thread bolts are Grade 10.9, which is roughly equivalent to SAE Grade 8. IOW, it's a pretty good bolt. I can post the picture I took of the bolt head if you like.

"Looking weaker" in this case, is just that. The sharp edges represent a stress concentration, which is not just an increase over the stress you'd get by dividing bolt tension by area. It's also a highly localized area of greater flexibility. Stress intensification factors and flexibility factors are things I occasionally get involved with in my day job, and while this bolt shape is a little different from the shapes of the things I do work with, the basic theory behind it all is going to be the same.

The argument isn't just about breakage. Evidently Mr. Camaro owner put a number of miles on his crappy situation without anything having fallen off the car before he found out what the problem really was.


also, .020" isn't enough to make a large difference (measure it on some calipers and see just how small that it) on the strength of a bolt
I think you missed the point. It's the knuckle that's 0.020" thicker. I realize that 0.020" is not a very big change, or much of a gap to have to close up. But if you were to do a deflection analysis of the strut tabs (ears?) I think you'd find that the amount of force required to close the ears up by that 0.020" is in fact enough to matter. Bolt force is torque. Remember, the torque spec only went up by 18 ft-lbs, and consider that whatever amount of torque used to close that 0.020" up to be "wasted" as far as holding the joint together goes.

Even if the crash bolts are Grade 12.9 (which is about 20% stronger than 10.9), that's unlikely to be enough stronger to even buy off the stress intensification factor, never mind the smaller cross section.


Norm
 
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JesseW.

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sorry, i got a little worked up and didn't read it all the way through.... i'd still like to see an example of a camber bolt failing on a s197 mustang. i've looked and cannot find one.
 

Jinx

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Put the mounts in yourself, it is easy, you don't even take the spring off the strut so no spring compressor needed. You just need a jack, jack stands, a metric socket set and a torque wrench. If you want in depth directions just ask or search around. Alignment should be $100 or so.

Currently time and space is at a minimum at the current time, so I have to have someone put them in :(
 

Sleeper_08

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Eibach torque spec for their camber bolts: 77 lb/ft
Ford for the old bolts: 148 lb/ft
Ford's new fine thread bolts: 166 lb/ft.

If you are ok with running 71 lb/ft less torque than Ford originally supplied, then later upped to 166, that's fine with me. I sell Eibach bolts.

The above sums it up very well. My 08 has been switched to the new fine thread bolts.

If Ford thought it important enough to make this running bolt change and modify the machining of the spindle for production cars then for the price of a set of bolts I wanted the extra peace of mind.

I'm with Norm 100% on this - why do people cheap out for a small amount of money and put the whole car, themselves and others at risk - especially if they are going to track the car.
 

Sam Strano

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sorry, i got a little worked up and didn't read it all the way through.... i'd still like to see an example of a camber bolt failing on a s197 mustang. i've looked and cannot find one.

I know two guys that had the Ford bolts slip (though admittedly they didn't loctite them, which is why I always do) and in both cases they ended up with broken steering knuckles and one car with some body damage.
 

Jinx

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How much does taking out (labor hours or cost) the front struts usually go for?
 

ArizonaGT

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If you want to do this right, get camber plates. I wouldn't trust my life or my vehicle to camber bolts when I'm doing 140mph on the track.
 

Jinx

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I just got My Steeda HDs from the fedex guy:

2011-07-28_14-29-48_306-1.jpg
 

Jinx

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Shop charged $150 for installing my Steeda HDs and $60 for alignment.

-0.5 was the closest to zero the shop could get on Steeda HDs on the camber. Car feels better now and rigid, but no harshness added. No increase in NVH, maybe less with them, but that could be the quieter tires too. The stock strut mounts were not destroyed and appeared to look normal; maybe why I haven't heard the popping sound.

alignment2011001.jpg
 

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