Kenne bell stage 1 SC

[Racer47]

of the 3, brisk has had the most issues, i personally would not use them

 

[teeje]

of the 3, brisk has had the most issues, i personally would not use them

So autolite htos are the way to go then?
Also what is a good gap?

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[MrAwesome987]

I want to say I did mine at .032 but I honestly can't recall.

 

[Midlife Crises]

If you have early 08 heads they may be different than the heads I have but I have run NGK Iridium one range colder and Brisk Silver Racing two ranges colder and had no problems with either plug.

 

[teeje]

Yes I have the earlier heads from 08 so I’m not sure which to go with


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[teeje]

I’d ask Lito but I can’t get a hold of him


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[Racer47]

So autolite htos are the way to go then?
Also what is a good gap?

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I've used both the autolites and Ford m-12405-3v0 which I think are essentially the same.

I always gap to .032" also buy the gapping tool. It works well.

 

[teeje]

I've used both the autolites and Ford m-12405-3v0 which I think are essentially the same.

I always have to .032" also buy the happing tool. It works well.

That is what I’m hearing after more research. If you had to choose between the two, which would you choose and why? How often do you check or change yours? I personally can not find the ford ones.


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[Racer47]

I think they are the same. So either is fine. I change them every other winter. That's probably more than needed. But I used to race a lot. So that seems like a long time to me.

 

[b00stedgt]

I actually just bought the frpp plugs and they are NGK 7554’s. Same plugs I used since I put my whipple on. Ran great with no issue.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Yes I have the earlier heads from 08 so I’m not sure which to go with


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For the 2005-early "08" heads, the choices are either Brisk racing silver, Accel HP Copper or Autolite HT0. Currently I'm on my second set of HT0 plugs and haven't ran across any performance issues. For my next set, I'm going to try out the Accel HP Copper plugs which are also one degree colder and a one-piece design.

That is what I’m hearing after more research. If you had to choose between the two, which would you choose and why? How often do you check or change yours? I personally can not find the ford ones.

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Reason your unable to find the Ford branded 3v0 plugs, is they were discontinued nearly 3 years ago. However, Autolite is the "OEM" manufacturer for Ford/Motorcraft. Therefore both the Autolite HT0 and previous Ford Racing 3v0 plugs are exactly one in the same. I pretty much change my plugs every 3 years regardless of mileage due to the higher cylinder pressure from the Saleen VI blower. That being said, if the 2 piece design of the HT0's isn't a factor? IMO there a very reliable spark plug. Just make certain to apply nickel anti-seize onto the ground barrel/electrode shield prior to installing and change them every 3 years when running a FI application. If you track your car? then I would recommend changing them every 2 years.

I think they are the same. So either is fine. I change them every other winter. That's probably more than needed. But I used to race a lot. So that seems like a long time to me.

They're exactly one in the same, as Autolite is the "OEM" manufacturer for Ford/Motorcraft!

 

[teeje]

I will go with autolite then. Thanks everyone for your experienced input I appreciate it. I got a response from Lito also. I’m friends with him on Facebook. Apparently there was some email spam issue that marked everything and sent it to spam.


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[06 T-RED S/C GT]

.032 is considered the recommended gap. The gap for my particular application however is .030 which is required for my JDM S/C tune by JDM.

 

[Nemisus]

Hey OP,

I installed the KB Stage 1 offered by Carroll Shelby earlier this year. Didn't have to change or modify anything on my 2007.

As far as plugs go, KB recommends the 1 temp colder plugs by Brisk.

I have attached a supplement article from KB that was provided in my kit. There is a part number and phone number for anyone 2008. You could also call KB and ask for Rick. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Rick and he is a good source of knowledge. I have never had any issues contacting KB by phone or e-mail.

I used Brisk PT# 3VR14. These are rated for HP range of 450 to 599 and work very well for me.

KB recommends the 3VR17, which have an HP range of up to 450. If you plan to exceed that in time the 14's work just fine. However with yours being an 08 I do believe plugs changed so call Brisk before taking my word on it.

I have about 3k miles on it since install. Blast to drive!

As far as "screw whine" these kits are very quiet out of the box. Even KB states this if you ask them. You could do a sound tube mod but know you'll get additional induction hiss through this tub. So if you're not constantly in boost and above 3k rpms mashing on the throttle the pay off may not be worth it. I did this and immediately bought another intake tube from KB as I couldn't stand the Induction noises during normal driving. Granted hearing the Whine did provide some satisfaction.

Hope this info helps.

Cheers,

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Hey there Joseph! This is Rocky, I'm also on TMS, I just go by a different user name on this site. Anyway, just wanted to say welcome to S197 forums

 

[Nemisus]

Heya Rocky!!

Actually been a member here for awhile, just never posted anything for some odd reason. I get the "weeks most popular" email and saw one I could actually apply some useful knowledge to. LOL,

Thanks for the welcome

 

[teeje]

Hey OP,

I installed the KB Stage 1 offered by Carroll Shelby earlier this year. Didn't have to change or modify anything on my 2007.

As far as plugs go, KB recommends the 1 temp colder plugs by Brisk.

I have attached a supplement article from KB that was provided in my kit. There is a part number and phone number for anyone 2008. You could also call KB and ask for Rick. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Rick and he is a good source of knowledge. I have never had any issues contacting KB by phone or e-mail.

I used Brisk PT# 3VR14. These are rated for HP range of 450 to 599 and work very well for me.

KB recommends the 3VR17, which have an HP range of up to 450. If you plan to exceed that in time the 14's work just fine. However with yours being an 08 I do believe plugs changed so call Brisk before taking my word on it.

I have about 3k miles on it since install. Blast to drive!

As far as "screw whine" these kits are very quiet out of the box. Even KB states this if you ask them. You could do a sound tube mod but know you'll get additional induction hiss through this tub. So if you're not constantly in boost and above 3k rpms mashing on the throttle the pay off may not be worth it. I did this and immediately bought another intake tube from KB as I couldn't stand the Induction noises during normal driving. Granted hearing the Whine did provide some satisfaction.

Hope this info helps.

Cheers,

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Wow yours sure did turn out great! My plan is to keep rwhp at 450 ish. What would you recommend on stock internals? Next year I’m going to get another block and forged internals. But as far as mine being a 2008, I am just shit of the redesigned heads. I still have the extended reach plugs that are prone to breaking. As far as using brisk plugs, I did see that KB recommended them but as you can see here in this thread, we’ve got some conflicting information as what to use so I’m not sure at this point lol. I like that gauge pod you have there. I want to do that but I’m not so sure I want to drill holes into my dash. I have a wideband though mounted with the “very rare” roush ac vent mount. I thought that was a joke until I had to get one. I ended up finding one used one, and 3 NOS mounts and snatched em up. Now as far as getting a hold of KB I hear they are shut down with all this pandemic shit going on so I who knows when I’ll hear back from them. Again, thank you for all the info I appreciate and I will definitely use everything everyone has told me to my advantage

For sparkplugs:
I like that the brisk is one piece but I hear a lot about fouled plugs or even spark blowout
Autolite ht0s I like but I don’t care for having to get a special tool to gap them or the two piece design, even though they say it is a one piece on American muscle but as far as reviewers go I’ve heard a lot more good than brisk so if ht0s are a better plug then I’ll spend a few extra what seems like pennies at this point on a damn tool. I just need to know for sure which to go with. I wish I could get as many in here as I could that is boosted so I can hear their opinions on these plugs.

I did now just see the document you attached. It didn’t load at first. What did you gap your Brisks to? And what other mods do you have? After reading the document you sent from brisk I think I’ll go with Brisk PT# 3VR14
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[06 T-RED S/C GT]

As long as you apply nickel anti-seize to the electrode shield barrels? the HT0 plugs will not separate. Also as mentioned in a previous post, you should change the plugs every 2-3 years when running a S/C application anyhow, due to the increased cylinder pressure. If you change out the plugs as recommended? you'll avoid the potential risk of having carbon build up around the electrode shields, to begin with anyhow. Therefore, if in your opinion the HT0's are better plugs over the Brisk's? then by all means, go with the HT0 plugs.

 

[teeje]

As long as you apply nickel anti-seize to the electrode shield barrels? the HT0 plugs will not separate. Also as mentioned in a previous post, you should change the plugs every 2-3 years when running a S/C application anyhow, due to the increased cylinder pressure. If you change out the plugs as recommended? you'll avoid the potential risk of having carbon build up around the electrode shields, to begin with anyhow. Therefore, if in your opinion the HT0's are better plugs over the Brisk's? then by all means, go with the HT0 plugs.

Yeah I take my plugs out about every 10 k anyhow and clean them and re apply anti seize. I recently took them about because I learned the new “revised ones” I had were not fords latest revision so I put brand new ones in that were fords latest revision and they only have about an hour of run time on them.


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[Nemisus]

The dash gauge pod is secured with heavy duty velcro. No movement while driving and easy to get under should you find the need. Hardest part of the install was running the wires behind it.

Pretty expensive if you buy the version from Shelby that has their signature gauges. But it does arrive pre-wired and all you have to so is connect the other ends. Mounting the oil block for the Oil Pressure took some thinking but this only because they no longer provide a mount for it. Instead they have you zip tie the block to one of the power steering lines. I didn't like this so fabricated my own mount so it's firmly mounted to the side of the block and tucked away.

Hope this helps and best of luck.

As far as forged internals go I am not quite there yet. Will most likely go that route when mileage is high and a rebuild is due. I'll then consider stage 2.

Cheers

Nemi