Let's talk headers

Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by kstall, Apr 19, 2021.

  1. ghunt81

    ghunt81 New parts on old junk! S197 Team Member

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    That's where the swivel head gear wrenches are awesome. They fit into so many spots where you just can't get a ratchet. I did the majority of the header bolts with those.

    I will say, the top nut on the passenger side motor mount is really difficult to reinstall and tighten down after installing JBA's, not sure about other headers. You basically have to get a box wrench in there and tighten it as best you can because you can't reach it with anything else except a crow's foot.
     
  2. kstall

    kstall Member

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    So flex head wrenches and a crow's foot? Lol I'm gonna need a bigger tool box by the time all these mods are finished. Embarrassingly, I've never known what a crows' foot is used for.

    And I figured while I'm at it, might as well get a set of stubby flex heads too. I mean you never know when you're gonna need it right lol
     
  3. MasterofDisaster

    MasterofDisaster Member

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    Concur. When I installed shorties, I screwed together two 2x8s and used them between the back and the pan rail.

    If you try removing any of the manifold or exhaust pipe bolts or nuts with anything other than a 6-point socket, you're a fool. Even good 12-point sockets round off a high percentage of these fasteners.

    Another tool I found handy was an oscillating tool. I put a mild ScotchBrite pad on it, and it worked great for removing old gasket material. Permatex gasket remover did precisely nothing.

    Definitely get a good O2 sensor socket as they can be hard to remove. Buy some anti-seize for the sensor that is compatible with your sensors and cats.
     
    crjackson2134 and Midlife Crises like this.
  4. Wingrider

    Wingrider GT500 track guy

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    Think about using Stage-8 header bolts to the heads. Header nuts/bolts are notorious for backing out and a pain to keep after. I used them on my GT500 headers 2-3 years ago and have not had to touch them.
     
  5. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    And that right there is the reason I reused all but one OEM header studs.
    As for spending a fortune on Stage8 locking fasteners, I am too cheap. Simple lock washers worked on my 91. ;)
     
  6. ghunt81

    ghunt81 New parts on old junk! S197 Team Member

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    Honestly I bought a set of crow's feet and have yet to actually use them. Very difficult to get much torque on a bolt with those.

    But, I do have regular, stubby and flex head gear wrenches in both standard and metric. Those things are a godsend. Definitely pick up that socket adapter I mentioned to, you can turn stubby gear wrenches into stubby ratchets!

    Also Stage 8's are not that much. My only complaint about them is they only give you the exact number of long tabs and clips that you need meaning if you lose one you're SOL. I had no interest in reusing the stock studs and with some headers they will hit the primaries or be so close they are difficult to get a nut on.
     
  7. kstall

    kstall Member

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    What about arp bolts? Those in the same line as stage 8?
     
  8. ghunt81

    ghunt81 New parts on old junk! S197 Team Member

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    ARP's are just a standard header bolt. If you're shelling out the money get something locking.
     
  9. kstall

    kstall Member

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    Gotcha
     
  10. Laga

    Laga Member

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    I must be doing something right. Ive installed 3 sets of headers over the years and never had a bolt/nut loosen.
     
    eighty6gt and RED09GT like this.
  11. Rich Grundza

    Rich Grundza Junior Member

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  12. Rich Grundza

    Rich Grundza Junior Member

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    OK, did the kooks long tubes last year on a 2013. You will have to drop the k member. I purchase an otc engine support (200 bucs on amazon) and two lifting brackets from EBAY. Did it on jack stands in the front supporting the car on pinch welds with harbor freight pads on the jack stands. Rear was up on ramps. The beauty of the support bar is that you can move the engine around and it really makes tightening bolts initially extremely easy. When you drop the k member, I had to replace both tie rod ends as the spun once I went to tighten the old ones. 40 bucs on amazon for 2 moog. With the kooks 1&7/8 in I could use the drop motor mounts, one of the tubes is an 1/8 in off the K member and there is very little clearance for the steering shaft.
     
  13. crjackson2134

    crjackson2134 Member

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    So how far were you able to drop. I’m considering dropping mine as well, but I have the 1-3/4” Kooks on my 2014.
     
  14. Monkeyporn

    Monkeyporn forum member

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    Look online in your area a lot of places have "Rent-a-lift". I found one in my town when I needed it to install my new GT500 Lower Control Arms.
     
  15. kstall

    kstall Member

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    Now that is something I haven't thought of. Thanks
     
  16. EBABlacknChrome

    EBABlacknChrome forum member

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    How the hell did you get the rear bottom two lock nuts on those stage 8's? Lol. I just pull my driver's side header to add a bung and BMR mounts. So decided I would do the stage 8's. I call them stage 6's sense I can't snap those last two.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2021
  17. ghunt81

    ghunt81 New parts on old junk! S197 Team Member

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    Long needle nose plliers I think? I honestly can't really remember. I'm sure I cussed a lot though
     
    EBABlacknChrome likes this.
  18. Oliver Vigil

    Oliver Vigil Junior Member

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    I installed headers with a helper in about 2 hours, I would block an afternoon for the job just in case. Extensions for the motor mounts, open ended and ratchetting wrenched are your best friend, as well as a nice swivel/universal socket. Nothing crazy I could recommend to make the process easier, just take your time and do your research. You can easily run the long tubes and a mid pipe, leaving the axel back completely up to you, just make sure you get a mid pipe with your long tubes.

    My Notes
    • Make sure to grab some O2 extensions, I run SRs and found them to be good quality and easy to install (have a dremel ready to shave down the tabs from the SR's as instructed by the manufacturer).
    • American Muscles video on how to install BBK long tubes is a great reference to follow when installing any long tubes on this car.
    • I had clearance issues with my steering shaft, practically impossible to drive, due to old motor mounts. I now run BMR's poly motor mounts and the clearance is perfect.
    • Personal preference on the mid pipes, I love the sound of the H Pipe over the X. Do some research and make sure you find the sound you like best before purchase, it makes the car sound completely different. In my experience, H Pipes give the car a "throatier" sound over the X Pipes.
    Good luck my man, those are some nice headers! Keep us posted.
     
  19. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    2 hrs to install longtubes???? I could not replace stock for stock headers in 2 hrs. On a lift with helper and power tools.
     
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