Light out in MyColor Gauge

Tungsten_GT

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See attached pictures
Basically when I turn my lights on the coolant temp light doesn't illuminate, but when I shut the lights off at night the whole cluster is still illuminated in white.
Is there an easy fix or will I need to send my cluster out?

2018-04-08 20.43.21.jpg
 

RocketcarX

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I once asked this question because mine did the same thing but it was the white back lighting in my tach that quit. I think it has to be sent out, I never got a good answer here.
 

Tungsten_GT

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I once asked this question because mine did the same thing but it was the white back lighting in my tach that quit. I think it has to be sent out, I never got a good answer here.
Who did you send it to? I messaged one seller on ebay who never answered me
 

702GT

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From what I understand about the mycolor gauges, there are 2 light sources. One is an ambient light that sits behind the gauge face plate (general illumination) and the other is the face plate itself, which is where the actual colored light comes from. Judging by the picture, I would say that section of face plate has stopped working for whatever reason. The leds/bulbs behind the face plate can be replaced. The face plate itself can not be repaired (rather, is likely more costly and time consuming to repair than the cost of replacing the while thing). I have not had a S197 gauge pod apart, so I'm mostly assuming its construction is similar to the SN95/Edge pods, which I've done a bunch of work with.

Options.

It used to be you couldn't swap gauge pods without having the PATS done at a dealer or tuned out by a tuner. They use to have physical milage rollers built to the speedo. The S197's may be different, but I know it's a direct plug n play. The only catch may be for loading information which would likely require dealer calibration (assuming milage is stored on the gauge pod or there is still a PATS governing the pod). Unlike back in the day, the cost of a replacement gauge pod has come down significantly. ($168 + $300 core from Rockauto for example). Of course, don't send out your core until you've confirmed a successful swap and don't need the original for dealer calibration (mileage or a PATS). This is my #1 option. I feel it's the path of least resistance and will yield the best results. Just make sure you get on the phone and confirm that you're ordering the same gauge pod with mycolor, and not a non-mycolor (if you still want mycolor). Don't get a V6 pod either, the speedo and tach are different.

Another alternative would be to swap the face plate itself. The face plate should be plug n play. You could use anything aftermarket that is based on the GT pod, as long as the gauge position and count match. You may lose the mycolor feature, not sure that the aftermarket plates offer it. Personally, I'd go with a Bullit face plate since it's factory Ford and looks awesome to boot (i think they are mycolor as well). This is the #2 option, IMO.

And then there's the route you're currently seeking, which is to send out for repair. Personally I don't like this option, again cost & time. Repairing a face plate is going to involve taking layers apart and finding the culprit component (likely an LED or circuit path, the face plate looks kind of like a motherboard under the snazzy exterior, with circuit paths running through it and very very small LED's that allow for multi-color operation). I think this option is going to cause you hair loss and high blood pressure. If you were an avid DIY'er and had a bench, the tools, and knowledge to get surgical on this face plate of yours, it'd be a grand adventure and lots of pics/vid/writeup for your fellow enthusiast. I'd offer to do it myself, but I'm pressed for time most days. All I can offer is theories and an opinions with options.

The mycolor gauge faceplate doesn't have issues very often, which is why user info is limited or non-existent on this subject. As with anything when you venture into unknown territory, document and post your findings/results. Help a future you find his way.
 

Tungsten_GT

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Update, So yesterday I drove the car home from work at night, everything worked and lit up, then today it didn't work again, I think it might be a loose connection somewhere vs a dead LED. But if anyone can drop a name for a cluster fix service, it'd be greatly appreciated. Can't really buy another cluster right now since I'm trying to stick to a budget.
 

Tungsten_GT

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the seller in Austin Texas or someone else? I used the guy on ebay out of Austin.
Was the seller rapid_electronics? I sent them a message and asked if they fixed faulty backlighting in the clusters and they said they don't do that. (even though their listing says "Repair burnt bulbs to the backlighting of the cluster.") But oh well
 

buster

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Mine does something similar .
Day time illumination is fine. When I put the lights on I normally have the colour set to blue backlight. Sometimes it flickers dim then back to normal. It does it on the speedo at the 80-100 mph area. It only does it now and then, mostly when the lights are first switched on then it'll flicker for a bit then go normal and stay that way. If I change the colour to a different one it seems to stop flickering also but I'm unsure if that's just coincidence.

ps.. yes we spell colour like that in England :bleh:
 

Brian J Matlock

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I just posted a similar question. I am guessing as our cars get older more of us will have issues. I have my gauge cluster apart in front of me right now and I hooked it all up to the car to find the problem. With the lights all on with just the circuit board connected in front of me there is about 77 LEDs on this thing. Anywhere that there is a mycolor adjustment there is at least one set of red, green, and blue LEDs. All the daytime lights of course are white.

My issue is the on my speedometer the right most sets of leds have the blue going bad. So when I set blue to setting 1-3 in mycolor they flicker pretty bad. It would be a pretty challenging task to solder new ones in but I am planning on at least attempting it. All I need to figure out is what type of LED to get to replace them. I thing they are 3020 chips but I cannot find anything on where to get single replacement chips instead of strips or circuit boards. Even if I did find a place I would want to ensure they were good chips that are nice and bright.
 
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