Long tube headers problem

[stang_gt2010]

Well, i got the JBA long tube headers on and JLT CAI and loaded the 93 tune from Brenspeed. Started it up and sounds great, then when i take it for a drive, and i start to slow down the car almost dies and there is a loud clanking sound, sounds like its coming from the passenger side. Anyone have any ideas on what the clanking sound is?? I think the RPM's jumping up and down is the tune but maybe not?? Any suggestions?? Its a 2010 Mustang GT

 

[stang_gt2010]

Also is there a difference in the O2 sensors for the passenger and driver sides?? I have no check engine light so i assume Brenspeed turned off the rear o2's like i told them too. But the front o2's is there a difference in passenger and driver??

 

[06GTMustang89]

The O2 wires are different...ive switched them up before on accident after my tranny swap and once you switch them back your drive ability is back to normal...

I don't know about the sensors themselves let me check real quick...nope not different...the rears are different from the front (pre cat) thats the only difference

Have you checked to make sure everything is tight and plugged in and what not..???

 

[stang_gt2010]

Yes, i used o2 extensions for the front, as far as i can see everything is tight and plugged in right.

 

[Hawgman]

You still using stock motor mounts? That may have something to do with the clanking sound you are hearing. Wasn't it JBA headers that don't fit for shit with the stock mounts? (I honestly don't remember)

 

[06GTMustang89]

yeah im pretty sure hawgman is right...whats hte clearance on the header to mount??

 

[smoken1986]

Is the noise only when you are moving? Turning or going straight? Sounds like something is not tight...

 

[stang_gt2010]

going straight, turning, anything really, but i only hear it when i am slowing down. Like ill go 60 then just put it in neutral and as it gets slower it gets louder then when i stop the car almost dies and then the noise goes away after it idles for about 5 seconds or so

 

[stang_gt2010]

I am using stock motor mounts and jba recommends replacing them with the steeda ones. That might be the problem as i believe everything is tightened down.

 

[smoken1986]

Well the car should not be dying just because of something rubbing..You have other issues if the car is almost shutting off. Any ck engine light action? Is the exhaust hitting the driveshaft?

 

[stang_gt2010]

No check engine lights, no its not hitting the driveshaft. I think it might be in the tune why its almost dieing. Do you think it would be alright if i put the stock air box on and reloaded the stock tune with the long tubes and offroad h-pipe?? I am getting the hot rod cams and dyno tuned next week so just till then.

 

[mynameismike65]

No check engine lights, no its not hitting the driveshaft. I think it might be in the tune why its almost dieing. Do you think it would be alright if i put the stock air box on and reloaded the stock tune with the long tubes and offroad h-pipe?? I am getting the hot rod cams and dyno tuned next week so just till then.

I would let it sit if you can if your getting it dyno tuned in a week.

 

[06ROUSH425RWHP]

did you disconnect the bat.. if so did you go through the steps for the commputer to relearn the idle curve. that would solve the almost stalling issue. my jbas made a very mild rattling sound from the pass. side but it eventually went away. i assumed they were touching somin somwere at certain rpms

 

[Marc s]

If you had to jack the motor up to install the L/T headers you may want to check all your connections from the filter to the TB. If one is loose that can cause idle issues. Also, make sure the filter is not over-oiled.

 

[stang_gt2010]

What are the steps for the computer to relearn the idle curve??

 

[smoken1986]

Start it and turn the ac on and let it idle there is some other step but I dont know them.. The idle relearn has never been a issue for me one or two starts and its always fine. On the JBA's I think there is one tube on the pass side that can rub with out motor mounts, I would just rock the motor back and forth and see where its hitting

 

[07Alloy]

Make sure your not slightly rubbing on the steering shaft. I think this is a problem with jba and atleast a problem that I am having. At startup the engine runs a little higher rpm causing the motor to "vibrate" more, for lack of a better term. Mine just barely hits my steering shaft then and makes noise and so forth. I also had a vibration on the passenger side with the hanger bracket on the h pipe hitting a frame bolt. Check there also. I just bent mine. I havent gotten around to my steering shaft rub yet. As for the car slowing down....I dont know.

 

[bolivianpimp]

Damn this sucks to hear. I am putting JBA long tubes in a week or two and I was hoping there would be no extra problems!

 

[GERMANSHEPERD]

Repeat after me-ARH or KooK's ONLY!

 

[sportinawoody]

Well, i got the JBA long tube headers on and JLT CAI and loaded the 93 tune from Brenspeed. Started it up and sounds great, then when i take it for a drive, and i start to slow down the car almost dies and there is a loud clanking sound, sounds like its coming from the passenger side. Anyone have any ideas on what the clanking sound is?? I think the RPM's jumping up and down is the tune but maybe not?? Any suggestions?? Its a 2010 Mustang GT

ive got the same headers, listen to me ,,,,,,
1: loosen the drivers side mount and slip a 5/8
washer on the stud, that will solve your steering shaft problem
2 : the clanking is more than likely going to be the h pipe hanger laying on the trans crossmember bolt and probably the top part of the hanger also hitting the frame rail.
3 : if youre running stock mufflers lay up under the back end and look up at those hangers as the hpipe header combo pushed mine backwards a little causing the hangers to bottom out against the rail, if this is the case, just hack off 1/4 " off the end and youll be set. but pay close attention to the hanger on the passenger side. also the pipe when tightened will pull the headers one way. i had to stick a prybar between the passenger header and frame rail before tighteneing th pipe clamps to dget the right clearance. hope this helps, i know it will.