Man Without a Country?

jsimmonstx

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427cid
205cc AFRs with 56cc chambers
10.5:1 static compression ratio

I don't know what the heads flow - I checked the build sheet and there's nothing mentioned there. I considered a Victor Jr intake, but yeah, the car will be more of a street driver. It'll be wearing a 850 mech secondary QuickFuel carb.

We're gonna run it down the track a few times just to see what it will do. We're expecting 10's, which is respectable enough. :)

I'm anxious to get the car on the dyno to see how much power it'll make.
 

psfracer

billy badass
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427cid
205cc AFRs with 56cc chambers
10.5:1 static compression ratio

I don't know what the heads flow - I checked the build sheet and there's nothing mentioned there. I considered a Victor Jr intake, but yeah, the car will be more of a street driver. It'll be wearing a 850 mech secondary QuickFuel carb.

We're gonna run it down the track a few times just to see what it will do. We're expecting 10's, which is respectable enough. :)

I'm anxious to get the car on the dyno to see how much power it'll make.

See if you can get some flow numbers for the heads. What are your cam specs? With an 850 mechanical secondary it might like the victor. The victor isn't as bad down low as you think--but then again if you have a mild cam in there then maybe the dual plane is the better choice when you consider the 427 cid.

What is the bore X stroke combo? Cam specs?
 

jsimmonstx

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See if you can get some flow numbers for the heads. What are your cam specs? With an 850 mechanical secondary it might like the victor. The victor isn't as bad down low as you think--but then again if you have a mild cam in there then maybe the dual plane is the better choice when you consider the 427 cid.

What is the bore X stroke combo? Cam specs?

bore 4.125
stroke 4.0

Cam Specs
 

jsimmonstx

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Found a local place (Cradin Industries) that does ceramic coating, and ball-parked an estimate for my headers at $225, with a 5-7 day turnaround. That's certainly affordable. I think I'm gonna go with black.
 

jsimmonstx

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Test-fitted the headers and k-member, and measured for hood clearance. It looks like the engine will fit under the hood that I already have. Woot!

fitting_01.jpg


fitting_02.jpg


fitting_03.jpg
 

moostang09

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I like what I am seeing! When this is done I would love to make a trip down to where you are and make a video of your car. If you are interested the offer is on the table brotha!
 

moostang09

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Sure. What kind of video are you thinkin?


I do different kind of youtube videos. I try to get creative angles and put it to music. Then I lol to mix in some engine and exhaust sounds with flybys, burnouts, revs or whatever you want to do. I post videos on youtube, just search Moostang09. You can ignore the vlogs if you want, those are something different that I do for fun.
 

moostang09

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I am extremely excited for you! This was somethingI always wanted to do in my old v6! Props on going through with it all brotha!
 

jsimmonstx

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Okay, pics from day 02:

Gas pedal - had convert to a throttle cable system, so I started out with a Fox Mustang gas pedal. The holes that mount the Fox pedal are exactly the same as the left side S197 holes.

gaspedal_01.jpg


However, when we stuck the pedal on the studs, we found that the pedal is too high and too far to the left, so we fabricated an adapter plate that utilized the factory hole locations, and allowed us to position the Fox pedal in a more favorable location.

gaspedal_02.jpg

gaspedal_02b.jpg


Here it is mounted in the car, along with the brake/clutch pedal setup we also had to install.

gaspedal_04.jpg


After we finished the pedal, we were able to determine where to drill the holes for the Fox (manual transmission) throttle cable.

throttlecable_01.jpg


Next, we tried installing the pre-2010 master cylinder reservoir (for the hydraulic clutch). It turns out that the reservoir is too freakin' wide, and prevents the use of the vacuum fitting on the brake booster. I had to order a new reservoir from Ford, but here's a pic with an arrow pointing to where the vacuum fitting should be.

reservoir_01.jpg


Finally, we mounted the crank trigger wheel (from a late model 302 Bronco) and pulley, and attached the alternator bracket and two of the three a/c brackets. I got the wrong front bracket and had to order one from AM for a 351w swap. Arrgg. Here's a pic of the trigger wheel mounted:

cranktriggerwheel_01.jpg


We had issues getting the transmission in the car, so there are no more pictures from what turned out to be a very long day.

I'll be spending the next couple of days (while the shop is closed) stripping the protective wrap from the wiring harness so we can cut away the wiring we don't need.
 

jsimmonstx

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Had to shave 5/16 inch off the transmission spacer, install three 0.187 throwout bearing spacers, and drill new holes in the transmission cross member, but we finally got the transmission in the car for good, and measured for the driveshaft.


Today, we're going to modify the passenger side header so it clears the bellhousing (it just barely touches when it's bolted up. Once that's resolved, we can weld the v-band collar to the collector and send the headers out for ceramic coating.


Once that's done, I think we're going to tackle the fuel system changes.

I'm real happy that we haven't encountered any significant engineering challengs yet, and very few no-see-ums.
 

psfracer

billy badass
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On the pedal---I just took off the factory pedal and mounted a Lokar pedal to the factory mounting bracket that the stock pedal was on.

Nice that everything else is working out for you without issue (mostly). I am assuming you are using a factory trigger wheel because of the wiring harness (instead of just using a crank trigger from MSD)?
 

jsimmonstx

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On the pedal---I just took off the factory pedal and mounted a Lokar pedal to the factory mounting bracket that the stock pedal was on.

Nice that everything else is working out for you without issue (mostly). I am assuming you are using a factory trigger wheel because of the wiring harness (instead of just using a crank trigger from MSD)?

Yeah, everything is going relatively smoothly, and for that, I am thankful. Of course, this is the easy stuff. We haven't gotten to the electrical stuff yet. :/

The trigger wheel is from an Explorer (I think). We had to machine it to go onto the balancer, and then machine the crank pulley to remove material to make up for the thickness of the wheel. We're using the OEM sensor. All that just to get a signal to the OEM tach...

One thing I forgot to mention - we have a rather severe positive caster problem brought on by the position of the LCAs imposed by the K-member. The front of the car sits about two inches higher as well. I don't know if we have enough adjustment in the caster/camber plates to resolve the caster problem. I'm gonna contact BMR and see what they say.
 

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