MCleod RST, RXT clutch

[AutoXRacer]

I used an 99-04 flywheel when I had an RST to get full coverage.

I have too and it does not provide full coverage like the McLeod flywheel does. I had a Fidanza 99-04 flywheel.

 

[DiMora]

The tale of the tape:

Inner diameter of stock 2006 GT flywheel friction mating area: 7 1/8"

Inner diameter of McLeod lightened steel flywheel: 6 1/4"

That is why you should always use a McLeod flywheel with a McLeod clutch - or a flywheel that fully covers the friction area on the McLeod clutch.

Otherwise, this happens:

 

[JeremyH]

I have too and it does not provide full coverage like the McLeod flywheel does. I had a Fidanza 99-04 flywheel.

Mine did, and it was a fidanza billet steel one piece. I had it side by side to the McLeod flywheel. I went through four flywheels when I was having clutch issues after my trans swap, they were identical coverage. I sold the McLeod and kept the fidanza.

 

[cycosarge]

I'm running the RXT in my KB Mustang and it is amazing! Stock clutch feel, WAY better than be SPEC stage 3+ I had n it before.

 

[CraigNnem]

Man clutch threads are always all over the place, for every 50 people that love a certain clutch, their is 50 more that hate it.

cycosarge what kind of driving do you do with your car? Drag race any? What was so bad about your old clutch?

Im trying to finally make a decision before spending too much for a clutch thats not worth it or paying for a cheaper clutch that is shitty and regretting it.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Im trying to finally make a decision before spending too much for a clutch thats not worth it or paying for a cheaper clutch that is shitty and regretting it.

The clutch decision really depends on your motor and use.
I will only recommend the twin disc to people with high torque motors. No need in a 400-500HP car. I would stay with a single disc in that power range.

Twin discs should be reserved for high torque motors. You will give up some creature comforts with a twin disc (drive train noise).

 

[BruceH]

If you have the cash then get an RST. It's better than the stock clutch. I've run one from 336rwhp to 699. Hot lapped, even burned one while drag racing (my fault, slipped it too much). Just let it cool down for an hour or so and drove home easy. It went from slipping to good as new, all it needed was a cool down and easy break in drive home.

I don't think there is another clutch that's going to do that. The guys at the track were sure I'd be lucky to get home. I ended up using it for more passes at a later date and sold it when I went to a 6060. AFAIK it's still going strong.

The only bad clutch I've had was a Centerforce dual friction. Stay away from that one. I'm currently using an Exedy 07806 and have no complaints. The RST is better though. Less pedal effort and cleaner engagement.

Man clutch threads are always all over the place, for every 50 people that love a certain clutch, their is 50 more that hate it.

cycosarge what kind of driving do you do with your car? Drag race any? What was so bad about your old clutch?

Im trying to finally make a decision before spending too much for a clutch thats not worth it or paying for a cheaper clutch that is shitty and regretting it.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I do have to agree with Bruce...the RST is smooth and easy pedal effort.
But I would not recommend the RST for a racer (drag/road).

I think Bruce got lucky, but he is also very in tuned with his car. Most of us will just abuse the crap out of our clutches and realize it when its too late. lol

 

[BruceH]

Did you have bad luck with a RST and drag racing?


On several occasions I made over 12 passes in an afternoon with drag radials. This was with the 10 spline and 26 spline RST clutches I've owned. The only issue was the one time that I burned it trying to slip it too much off the line.

When I purchased my first RST the RXT wasn't recommended for drag racing. Now they say to use the RXT, whatever.

I do have to agree with Bruce...the RST is smooth and easy pedal effort.
But I would not recommend the RST for a racer (drag/road).

I think Bruce got lucky, but he is also very in tuned with his car. Most of us will just abuse the crap out of our clutches and realize it when its too late. lol

 

[AutoXRacer]

When I purchased my first RST the RXT wasn't recommended for drag racing. Now they say to use the RXT, whatever.

lol
Yeah, they realized the RST was not conducive to heat (hot lapping). So the RXT came out to address that issue. Now McLeod recommends the RXT for applications that see racing. RST is reclassified as a street clutch...still very capable, but may fail if hot lapped.

 

[DiMora]

lol
Yeah, they realized the RST was not conducive to heat (hot lapping). So the RXT came out to address that issue. Now McLeod recommends the RXT for applications that see racing. RST is reclassified as a street clutch...still very capable, but may fail if hot lapped.

I have now had an RST and an RXT. They feel identical to me. So...I say buy an RXT if you have the money since it can tolerate heat better and there is no degradation in feel.

The RST is organic and the RXT is ceramic / organic from what I have read.

 

[BruceH]

I just looked it up. At one time the rxt was bronze metallic. When it got hot the bronze would stick to the flywheel and pressure plate. That's why the rst was recommended for drag racing when I bought mine.

Switching to ceramic must of cured the metal sticking problem. Or it was an internet myth, lol.

DiMora I'm interested in your impressions. You aren't seeing or feeling any difference in engagement or grabbiness with the rst?

lol
Yeah, they realized the RST was not conducive to heat (hot lapping). So the RXT came out to address that issue. Now McLeod recommends the RXT for applications that see racing. RST is reclassified as a street clutch...still very capable, but may fail if hot lapped.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Hey Bruce, I started out with the RST and ended up with the RXT. I could not tell a difference between the two. If there is, its very slight and not obviously noticeable.

 

[o2sys]

The more I drive the more its getting "broken-in" the better this clutch feels (RXT). At first I didn't know what all the hype was about and actually hated it because it was very springy and poppy clutch.

But without me realizing I totally forgot I had an aftermarket clutch that supports 1000hp!!! lol It was really soft and smooth, thought it was oem.

The McLeod Aluminum flywheel chatter on low rpms is not completely gone but is much better now as well. Only get it in when I don't downshift from rolling.

 

[DiMora]

I just looked it up. At one time the rxt was bronze metallic. When it got hot the bronze would stick to the flywheel and pressure plate. That's why the rst was recommended for drag racing when I bought mine.

Switching to ceramic must of cured the metal sticking problem. Or it was an internet myth, lol.

DiMora I'm interested in your impressions. You aren't seeing or feeling any difference in engagement or grabbiness with the rst?

No difference at all, honestly.

Hey Bruce, I started out with the RST and ended up with the RXT. I could not tell a difference between the two. If there is, its very slight and not obviously noticeable.

I'll echo that.

Gentlemen, the autopsy report is in from McLeod. They are warrantying my RST and sending me a new one at no charge.

The cause of failure was using the RST with a stock OEM GT flywheel. McLeod had set up the whole thing themselves at the factory and it was installed correctly, so I am glad to see they stepped up and made things right.

They told me that the clutch is engineered to provide for a .020" air gap between the bottom disc and the floater.

Both my bottom disc as well as my floater were warped by about .015". That left me a max air gap of .005, or if the warped surfaces were to both align simultaneously as the whole setup rotated, that is up to .030" of mass in an air gap that is only .020" - so you have .010" of binding.

The warping was caused by the mis-match of clutch friction surface to flywheel - causing uneven heating of the clutch disc. That uneven heating of course transfers uneven heat to the floater, so the end result is that both the bottom disc and floater get warped - and once the floater is trashed, it also starts to damage the top disc - and you get failure at 11,000 miles!

The measure to prevent this is to always use a flywheel that 100% matches the clutch - and that means use a McLeod flywheel since they are perfectly mated.

The problem is that McLeod (and all the websites - AM, Jegs, Summit and even the McLeod website) say you can use a stock flywheel - but that is incorrect as my evidence shows.

So...use a McLeod flywheel with a McLeod clutch and you will be fine. You also CAN use lok-tite (per McLeod) but use it sparingly to facilitate clutch disassembly when your clutch wears out. A little tiny bit will do. More is not better - you don't want it wicking between your adapter ring and the flywheel, and you or McLeod don't want to have to use a torch to disassemble the clutch when it is worn out. Use blue, not red, and use it sparingly! Use a torque wrench, tighten the pressure plate in a star pattern, and always align the stripes.

Hope that helps everyone.

 

[skwerl]

Glad to hear that, Shane.

 

[CraigNnem]

Ok before someone comes in and change my mind, who has the best price on a rxt?

 

[Gabe]

Ok before someone comes in and change my mind, who has the best price on a rxt?

x2

 

[BruceH]

The last time I was looking for one JPC had one of the best deals on a drop ship.

Ok before someone comes in and change my mind, who has the best price on a rxt?

x2

 

[CraigNnem]

Ok

might wait for the 4th of july sales to see what the vendors come up with.