Midpipe install gone terribly wrong, broken studs!

[o2sys]

I was going to install my off-road mac prochambers today and everything was going smooth until I tried to unbolt the oem h-pipe.

The two stud/bolts where the catalytic converter meets the headers, the bottom two studs (driver & pass.) snapped right off.

Luckly there is no exhaust leak and there is about 1/2~3/4" of the stud left on both sides sticking out of the header flange.

What is the best way to get them out?

Do I need new header studs or can I go the more traditional way of getting some bolt and nuts? (to prevent studs breaking off again)

HELP!!!

 

[skwerl]

I went through similar drama and ended up having to drill out the stud (it wasn't fun). I tried drilling out the center of the stud but was not successful, ended up drilling between the stud and manifold creating an oversize, oval shaped hole. Used a nut and bolt to put it back together and have a replacement manifold ready to go the next time I want to mess with it. Been a year and a half and hasn't leaked yet.

 

[skwerl]

If you can get hold of the studs to turn them out, try heating up the manifolds first and they might come out. They won't come out cold.

 

[o2sys]

I can't see but I can feel with my fingers and looks like there is a nut behind the H-pipe flange? I was going to see if I can turn that with a vice grip but lost confidence thinking I might snap it off flush like Skwerls picture.

If I need to drill it out, do I need to remove the headers off the car???

 

[BruceH]

Did you give it a blast of PB blaster first?

 

[tbar]

I broke one off a while back, gave up on drilling it out and used one of these.http://www.studfix.com/

 

[skwerl]

^That looks super handy!

Found my thread from when I went through this. A couple good suggestions including one about welding a nut on to the broken stud.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92113

 

[o2sys]

Yes I did soak it in PB blast, the stud snapped off pretty easily like it was made out of plastic!

I will try drilling, the Hush studfix sounds like the next best option!

Carefully looking at the hush studfix, it looks like its more of a solution for those who the studs are flush against the flange.

Mine still have a lot sticking out and wouldn't allow the new bolt to tighten enough (would touch the broken stud), I think....

 

[Swarzkopf]

Sounds like this was an omen from the car gods that it's time for headers for you...

 

[o2sys]

Sounds like this was an omen from the car gods that it's time for headers for you...

LOL...I just bought the headers off BruceH as my last resort, now watch me post a thread about stud stuck on my engine block....

 

[tbar]

If you have that much stud sticking out I'd take it to a shop & get them to put some heat on. It should spin out if they can grab it.

 

[speedfreak1000]

I just did the same thing skwerl did.

 

[Swarzkopf]

LOL...I just bought the headers off BruceH as my last resort, now watch me post a thread about stud stuck on my engine block....

Honestly, it's been my experience with my car that the header studs/nuts come out WAY easier then the stock midpipe-header studs/nuts do. Mine came right out without any issue - hopefully yours do the same.

Not saying header install isn't a bitch though - LOL
Good luck!

 

[Makdaddy]

Yes I did soak it in PB blast, the stud snapped off pretty easily like it was made out of plastic!

I will try drilling, the Hush studfix sounds like the next best option!

Carefully looking at the hush studfix, it looks like its more of a solution for those who the studs are flush against the flange.

Mine still have a lot sticking out and wouldn't allow the new bolt to tighten enough (would touch the broken stud), I think....

Maybe try grinding the busted stud flush to the manifold?

 

[wallace]

Mine still have a lot sticking out and wouldn't allow the new bolt to tighten enough (would touch the broken stud), I think....

Been there done that...
You're only eight bolts away from removing the stock piece, go ahead and remove it from the car.
Place appropriate size nut onto what remains of the broken stud and that tighten that sucker with all your strength, back it off and the broken stud will come right out.

 

[o2sys]

Ended up taking to a shop. Even at the shop the top studs stripped out so took all the studs out now has bolt and nuts on all them.

 

[Swarzkopf]

I miss having studs on mine. It makes dropping the midpipe so much easier. Fucking bolts and nuts NEVER want to line up. LOL

 

[o2sys]

Now there is a leak where the midpipe meets the manifold, even though it as tight as it can go.

Its only at cold start up, goes away after running to normal operating temp.

Thinking of putting a donut flange gasket? Would this work?

 

[RocketcarX]

Been there done that...
You're only eight bolts away from removing the stock piece, go ahead and remove it from the car.
Place appropriate size nut onto what remains of the broken stud and that tighten that sucker with all your strength, back it off and the broken stud will come right out.

I would have taken this advice myself. It's so much easier to hold a torch to the manifold while you turn the stud out of it with it out of the car. Also, a used manifold would have been a cheaper fix then paying a shop I would think.

 

[BruceH]

Now there is a leak where the midpipe meets the manifold, even though it as tight as it can go.

Its only at cold start up, goes away after running to normal operating temp.

Thinking of putting a donut flange gasket? Would this work?

Is this with the headers or stock manifold? You could use copper rtv.