Midpipe install gone terribly wrong, broken studs!

o2sys

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Ok stupid question but gonna ask anyways...if I decide to use the copper rtv, can I just dab some where it's leaking while not removing the pipes?
 

crownaviation

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Broke dafuk down
not sure if anyone mentioned it but I just weld a nut on thru the hole to the stud. the heat alone will do most the work. if not, the nut will give you another way to back it out. easy as can be and we have got to studs broke off deep in the thread
 

BruceH

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Ok stupid question but gonna ask anyways...if I decide to use the copper rtv, can I just dab some where it's leaking while not removing the pipes?

I don't think that will work very well. You should be applying a fay seal which means the rtv is put on one surface prior to assembly and ends up filling all the gaps. If you have some sqeeze out it will mean that you used enough.
 

nathanielwilliam

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I did this and then decided to just install long tubes. It was going to happen, just sped up the process.

Torch is the best bet, you just have to be careful not to hit anything heat sensitive with the flame. I used to remove bolts like this by using a welder to slowly build up a small bead on the bolt where it broke off. this breaks loose the rust and you end up with something to grab onto. you can also weld a nut on the bead that you just created.
 

o2sys

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well the stud is out, now I'm running bolt and nut but its leaking on the driver side. Its as tight as it can be without breaking the new bolt and just leaks on the left side of the pipe...so annoying!
 

ClassJ

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Like others have suggested, it is one of these issues that is best solved on the bench. Worst case a machine shop could fix it.

On another car I had the studs removed, holes drilled and heli-coiled, then installed 316 stainless studs with flex lock nuts and stainless washers.
 

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