Minimalist Handling/Lowering Set Up?

[Bingo]

I just picked up some Steeda Sport springs, Tokicos, and FRPP sway bars used from a forum member.

I'd look in the classifieds to see if you can piece together the suspension and save a bunch of money doing it.

I think to finish it off, I'll go with an adjustable UCA, fixed LCAs, and an adjustable panhard bar...probably right around $1000 when all is said and done.

 

[DusterRT]

I'd look in the classifieds to see if you can piece together the suspension and save a bunch of money doing it.

That's going to be your best bang for the buck if you've got more patience than money and don't care about warranties..

 

[Bingo]

That's going to be your best bang for the buck if you've got more patience than money

I've had the car for over three years and have only done a CAI+tune and a shifter...I'm in no rush. I'd rather let other people test the waters of different aftermarket parts.

and don't care about warranties..

How many people dug into their cars before the Ford warranty was up?

 

[DusterRT]

How many people dug into their cars before the Ford warranty was up?

I was going to wait until the 3/36 was up before I touched it. That lasted about 3 weeks. But I was talking about the warranty on the aftermarket parts (if they have them)..

 

[Bingo]

I was going to wait until the 3/36 was up before I touched it. That lasted about 3 weeks.

I actually made it almost to three years.

But I was talking about the warranty on the aftermarket parts (if they have them)..

I understand. To me, saving 30-50% on a part is worth it considering how infrequently parts go bad within the warranty time frame (depends on the part, I guess). I figure if the company has enough confidence to put a warranty on it, it's probably a decent piece. And it's good to stick with well-known names.

 

[Arkady001]

I went with the mod-list seen in my sig below and that came to about $2200 which may seem a lot but was considerably less than I expected...It can be done cheaper - the Koni 'yellows' were the biggest single purchase, but after talking with someone who Auto-X's a lot, the dampers would appear to make the biggest single improvement when it comes to suspension upgrades.
I went for the Eibach springs simply for the amount of drop they give - there are 'better' performing springs, but that depends on what use you put the car to... mine may feel too hard for a DD, but I don't use it as such...again, the dampers will affect the 'feel' more than the springs, so select the ones you like the look of and get the best shocks you can afford - or go with coil-overs: the adjustability of which is a must for serious racing, but less of an issue for me as I just hammer it around the back-roads with the occasional track outing.
I found with other cars I've owned that once you find a setting you like, you tend to leave it there unless you are very serious about your race-days...

The Hotchkis sway bars and UMI PHB offer lots of adjustment which was my primary reason - the fact that they're superbly engineered doesn't hurt...

Finally, give Sam Strano a call:
http://www.stranoparts.com/

He hooked me up with my set-up and he won't sell you stuff until he's spoken to you to decide what it is you need for the kind of driving you do: unlike other vendors who will sell you anything you ask for regardless of your needing it or not...

 

[sixties kid]

Did I just push my setup too far?

Sounds like this thread is the best place to seek guidance. Have tried to go slow and "do it right the first time", but just hit a "bump", literally. History is as follows on my 07 GT - 18" wheels bought, April 07:
@ 800 miles Ground Force 1.5" drop springs, Spyder shaft - stock shocks & panhard bar, absolutely no complaints, looked and handled better
@ 11K (Oct 08) installed JDM's Saleen Watts link - noticeable handling / cornering improvement still on stock dampeners, quiet and smooth (slight baby-buggying, but not a deal breaker considering o.e. shocks)
@ 12K inatalled FRPP 3.73's - still smooth and quiet, but obviously quicker
@ 15k (4 weeks ago), installed BMR LCA relo kit (w/ square tube poly's) to bring geometry spec back from lowering and in preperation for a little more - definitely made the car feel more connected, slight NVH increase, but again not unacceptable

here's where thing change.....
2 weeks ago installed Eibach Sportlines and Pro Dampeners (rears only so far) - feel, handling and looks exactly were I wanted them except....slightest road bump and I have impact - strike in the rear that I simply cannot figure out where. Have checked and rechecked my work and had the exhaust set up checked (long tubes and GTA's Nov 07). Plenty of other 07's running Sportlines with no complaints, but none that I know of with a Watts Link. Is this a faulty combo or is the 2" drop simply too much for this car. Did install the provided Eibach bump stops (have not cut them), but had no problem before the Sportlines. Sound comes from both or either side. Am I simply running into the bump stops or could it be something else? Can put the GF's back in an elimination attempt, just don't want to swim up stream if someone here has any input. Thanks in advance!

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Think spring rate.... with a 2" drop, to maintain the same suspension clearance with a given jounce, you'll have to up the rate dramatically, which will lead to an AWFULLY stiff ride. This is one of those trade-offs that we keep running into. Lower+soft springs= great ride, shitty over bumps. Lower+stiff springs= great over bumps, shitty ride... Pick one.

 

[DusterRT]

2 weeks ago installed Eibach Sportlines and Pro Dampeners (rears only so far) - feel, handling and looks exactly were I wanted them except....slightest road bump and I have impact - strike in the rear that I simply cannot figure out where. Have checked and rechecked my work and had the exhaust set up checked (long tubes and GTA's Nov 07).

Did you check to see if your mufflers are bouncing up and hitting the frame rails they run under? Jam something between the muffler and frame and go find some bumps, see if it's gone. Mine jiggle and bounce enough with the stock suspension to do this on certain bumps..

 

[SteveP]

I have a Ford Racing front sway bar forsale. I'm asking 80shipped. PM me if interested

 

[Arkady001]

2 weeks ago installed Eibach Sportlines and Pro Dampeners (rears only so far) - feel, handling and looks exactly were I wanted them except....slightest road bump and I have impact - strike in the rear that I simply cannot figure out where. Have checked and rechecked my work and had the exhaust set up checked (long tubes and GTA's Nov 07). Plenty of other 07's running Sportlines with no complaints, but none that I know of with a Watts Link. Is this a faulty combo or is the 2" drop simply too much for this car. Did install the provided Eibach bump stops (have not cut them), but had no problem before the Sportlines. Sound comes from both or either side. Am I simply running into the bump stops or could it be something else? Can put the GF's back in an elimination attempt, just don't want to swim up stream if someone here has any input. Thanks in advance!

I had what I thought was impact strike as well - every time I went over the slightest bump there was a huge metallic 'clank' just as if something was clobbering the underside of the car...
It turned out to be improperly-torqued front strut bolts...my fault entirely as I did my own install and the bolts worked about a 1/2 thread loose again.
Check that everything is tightened to the specified settings before you try anything else...

 

[RKW]

except....slightest road bump and I have impact - strike in the rear that I simply cannot figure out where.

Please lost a pic of one of your rear bumpstops taken through the wheel while the car is sitting more or less level if you can.

 

[Vapour Trails]

I had what I thought was impact strike as well - every time I went over the slightest bump there was a huge metallic 'clank' just as if something was clobbering the underside of the car...
It turned out to be improperly-torqued front strut bolts...my fault entirely as I did my own install and the bolts worked about a 1/2 thread loose again.
Check that everything is tightened to the specified settings before you try anything else...

Interesting. Just recently I've got a metal clanking sound from my front drivers side wheel going over bumps. So far I have not been able to locate it. I also did my own install, but I torqued everything to spec and used blue locktite. I'll have to investigate.

 

[SD07GT]

Interesting. Just recently I've got a metal clanking sound from my front drivers side wheel going over bumps. So far I have not been able to locate it. I also did my own install, but I torqued everything to spec and used blue locktite. I'll have to investigate.

Hi there ..... more than likely its your end link ...the upper one connected to the strut , they are a real pain to tighten even when you think there tight there not ! I used a 18mm wrench and a 8mm to hold the stud on the ball joint with new nuts and content get it tight enough (85) lb ft of torque .... I talk to Ford and Brenspeed and they both use at least 115 lb ft to get these thing totally tight , it seams like the 85 doesn't cut it !...also the front of the car does not have to be loaded when doing this !

Thats assuming that your strut nut on top is tight to factory spec of 45 lb ft pounds when the car is loaded on the ground !

If you ever look at the hole that the end link goes threw its sloppy ! it should of been a precision fit with a spacer inside ....If I have anymore problems in the future I'm going to the steeda ones because you can put a wrench on the stud from behind an actually put a socket from a torque wrench on it to get it tight ...I think allot of it had to due with those nylon nuts from the factory where Steeda just gives you regular ones and Tell's you to put loctite on it !

 

[Arkady001]

Interesting. Just recently I've got a metal clanking sound from my front drivers side wheel going over bumps. So far I have not been able to locate it. I also did my own install, but I torqued everything to spec and used blue locktite. I'll have to investigate.

That was exactly where my noise seemed to be coming from - it didn't do it when I deliberately let the right wheel go over small potholes...

Upon inspection, both sides were slightly loose though...

 

[Arkady001]

... more than likely its your end link ...the upper one connected to the strut , they are a real pain to tighten even when you think there tight there not!...

lol...You're so right about that - in the end I disconnected the sway-bar to swing it round a bit more and used an air-gun...that bugger is never coming loose...
Guess I should have used it for the tower-bolts as well...

 

[Vapour Trails]

Well I first heard the sound I thought my endlink had broken. I took the wheel off and everything looked fine, but of course it probably doesn't take anything visibly loose to produce a clunk.

I was so happy last summer after I did my install and everything was silent. Didn't last long.

 

[Chris B.]

How many people dug into their cars before the Ford warranty was up?

Before I picked up my first 2008 GT from the dealership, I had the springs, shocks, and sway bars replaced with upgraded parts. A few months later, I installed the Steeda CAI.

The only reason I haven't done any upgrades on my current 2008 GT is that I'm waiting for winter to be over and I'm tryign to decide what AutoX class I want to race in this year.

 

[sixties kid]

Please lost a pic of one of your rear bumpstops taken through the wheel while the car is sitting more or less level if you can.

SGD,
Thanks for the input, but ride quality is not the complaint or concern; damage is at this point.
Duster,
Exhaust was my first stop and am good there.
RKW,
Funny you would ask for bumpstop pictures. I spoke with Jim III today regarding some interference within the Watts Link and the bump stops were discussed. I just walked in camera in hand with the exact shot you asked for. The stops do not ride centered in the "saddle" area now. In fact, they are 75% off center, dramatically reducing the travel length before impact. Since I never saw the oe setup position, don't know that centered is where I started, but common sense says yes. Thoughts?

 

[RKW]

RKW, Funny you would ask for bumpstop pictures. I spoke with Jim III today regarding some interference within the Watts Link and the bump stops were discussed. I just walked in camera in hand with the exact shot you asked for. The stops do not ride centered in the "saddle" area now. In fact, they are 75% off center, dramatically reducing the travel length before impact. Since I never saw the oe setup position, don't know that centered is where I started, but common sense says yes. Thoughts?

Thanks for posting the pic. I don't recall seeing any S197s with the bumpstop centered in the saddle. Maybe manufacturing variation, maybe design flaw. Maybe this is fixed on the '08s?

Now, take the same pic with two people in the car and a full tank of gas. You are likely riding on the bumpstops...not good. The watts link should not affect this clearance I think. I would not cut these short bumpstops.

Mine looks the same as yours with a short bumpstop but I have 1.25-1.5 inches gap between the stop and frame rail (also off center). I also have stiff 250 lb/in rear springs. Stock I think the gap was more like 2 iniches (with the taller stock bumpstop).

When I last looked at JimIII's car, he had no bumpstops on the axle and the bumpstop mounting brackets were gone too...gives a lot more clearance. I don't think this is a good approach on the street though.

The fronts could be worse. My front is only lowered 3/4 inch and it is riding on the front bumpstops with the stock struts. The only thing saving it is the top part of the factory front bumpstop is a relatively soft "balloon". Can you see what your front suspension travel is or do dustcovers hide it?

For easy to follow baseline ride height and alignment specs I would look at the Roush Trak Pak setup guide here:

http://store.roushperformance.com/images/products/08/mustang/pdf/1308-R06000036-AA.pdf

(pages 6 and 8). I would add 10-15 mm for street IMHO. Get some springs that give you this ride height and you should be OK.

I learned the hard way like you especially after JDM added the Saleen S/C. I was bottoming front and back.