thump_rrr
Senior Member
Yes that's why cam lobe positioning is critical.
If we were 180º the right and left cam arrows would have been backwards.
Motor is gone
- Thread starter 94tbird
- Start date
If we were 180º the right and left cam arrows would have been backwards.
any ideas on what would cause low compression then?
nycmikie1
Member
Hey Ron do a leak down to see if the compression is blowing by valves or rings and do me a favor go to the thread "any problems with running a HV oil pump" I had a ton of ideas last night tell me if that makes and sense to you after reading.
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got a link? cant seem to find it
nycmikie1
Member
leak the engine down Ron
it will tell you what is going on in those cylinders
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nycmikie1
Member
Borrow or buy one at sears and return it when your done make sure its a 115 not a 220 and you need a good strong 110 outlet and no extension cord unless it is extra heavy duty and no longer then what you need ! You need to do this so you have the answer yourself if bad rings or a hurt piston the air noise will be in the oil pan if a bad intake valve you will hear air leak in the throttle body and exhaust valve leak you will hear it in the pipes but first go by the gauge you should be a max leak of 10-15% tops and all cylinders leak down should be some what close to each other anything less then 10 % your golden.
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Well my dad lsitened to the noise last night and we also figured out why the car is stalling.
First the stalling issue. Although the battery is fully charged according to the batt charger, it is really dead. When running on a jump pack (we don't have the belt on to eliminate accessories as noises) the car runs perfectly fine except for the noise.
Secondly, the noise yesterday was random again, some louder clunks or knocks than others. My father seems to think its coming from drivers side head. I just pulled the cover and i don't see anything out of the norm but then again I don't know what to look for. Im gonig to have him take a look in a little while
First the stalling issue. Although the battery is fully charged according to the batt charger, it is really dead. When running on a jump pack (we don't have the belt on to eliminate accessories as noises) the car runs perfectly fine except for the noise.
Secondly, the noise yesterday was random again, some louder clunks or knocks than others. My father seems to think its coming from drivers side head. I just pulled the cover and i don't see anything out of the norm but then again I don't know what to look for. Im gonig to have him take a look in a little while
SC boss
watch this!
nycmikie1
Member
Ron
I am trying to understand you but you beat around the bush way to much
LEAK IT DOWNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
I am trying to understand you but you beat around the bush way to much
LEAK IT DOWNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
Well after looking at it and reading information from the ford manual, it seems the drivers side timing MAY be off by 1 tooth on the gear (half a link on the chain).
According to ford with the Crank Keyway at 11 o'clock the Driversside cam gear timing mark should be facing the 12 o'clock position and it seems to be facing about 12:30
Now the Dimple on the Innovators West Pulley is at 11 o'clock. We have piston 1 at TDC which would put the timing gear dimple at 6 o'clock, which is what Ford says. That being said by looking at the picture it would seem it is about 1 tooth off which WOULD account for the lower compresson on that side of the motor. It doesnt solve the noise however but maybe they are related.
What do you guys think? Obviously I wont know for sure until I can pull the timing cover again
Below are the ford directions:
2005 Mustang Workshop Manual
According to ford with the Crank Keyway at 11 o'clock the Driversside cam gear timing mark should be facing the 12 o'clock position and it seems to be facing about 12:30
Now the Dimple on the Innovators West Pulley is at 11 o'clock. We have piston 1 at TDC which would put the timing gear dimple at 6 o'clock, which is what Ford says. That being said by looking at the picture it would seem it is about 1 tooth off which WOULD account for the lower compresson on that side of the motor. It doesnt solve the noise however but maybe they are related.
What do you guys think? Obviously I wont know for sure until I can pull the timing cover again
Below are the ford directions:
2005 Mustang Workshop Manual
- Rotate the crankshaft to position the crankshaft sprocket timing mark in the 6 o'clock position.
- Rotate the camshaft sprockets to position the RH camshaft sprocket timing mark in the 11 o'clock position and the LH camshaft sprocket timing mark in the 12 o'clock position.
I do not have the means to do this test at the moment Mike. If it comes to it I will but read my above post for more information
KIMMER
Admin
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Does look off compared to what ford states. I hope that's the problem so you can finally get this muther fixed and get out driving it!
ZmanM3
The Evil One
I agree, but again, I know nothing. But it does look to me to be off by a slight bit, like you say Ron, maybe 1 tooth.
Ron,
When you took the timing cover off did you verify the mark on the crank gear to the phaser mark? My car wasn't quite 12 o clock either...BUT with the chains being marked you can't really screw it up...The black chain link in the middle of the arrow on the phaser and the black chain link in the middle of the dot on the crank gear.
When you took the timing cover off did you verify the mark on the crank gear to the phaser mark? My car wasn't quite 12 o clock either...BUT with the chains being marked you can't really screw it up...The black chain link in the middle of the arrow on the phaser and the black chain link in the middle of the dot on the crank gear.
doc stang
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first off, sorry to hear of your problems, i havent been reading the boards much lately.
second, sorry to hijack, (kinda hijack), but we are in similar boats.
third, i have been waiting like 18 some-odd months to rant / rale on larry_h.
lastly, can y'all elaborate on some of the questions below, as mine is the third of a triumvirate of teksids, larry delivered to PMP, all at the same time.
MY engine is currently apart, and i want no larry-hangover in the new build.
1) larry had put the wrong oil pump on my, Ron's, AND Matt's engines.
2) larry did NOT line bore or deck hone the block, (for a fact)
and much worse than that . . .
3) larry somehow omitted the two oil galley plugs on the front of the passenger head, and then buttoned up the front cover., it then galled the passenger cam and cam journals,
i was in a rental car for like 6 weeks, for which has paid only 50% (said he'd pay it all),
while he did pay for a new cam, and a weak attempt to repair the head.
-----in all, he still owes me just under $2k, for the rental, labor and parts to get the engine running again.
then, 11 days after getting it back together, and dyno'd . . .
it fricking snowed, and i spun out, and totaled the convertible - i wish i could find a way to blame that on him as well.
so finally, after sitting for 14 months, the engine is apart, line bored, deck honed, re-balanced, new pistons, (old one were scuffed, somehow), heads re-done, and fixing to go back together next week.
what do i need to tell my new engine rebuilder to do differently to avoid this?
how does this affect anything? as the crank is balanced for the INTERNAL rotating assembly,
in a sense : the balancer, clutch, flywheel (and ultimatley the whole tranny, driveshaft, diff., axles, and wheels) could be considered the EXTERNAL rotating assembly. but obviously they dont weigh into crank balancing.
i am not trying to be a smart ass, i just have never heard of the balancer or flywheel being taken into consideration, when balancing the crank, though, now that i write all of this, i guess it KINDA makes sense, (not sure how do-able it is though)
option three for me is going to be like 18 months, now that it is finally drawing to a close,
and it going to cost about 60% of what i alrady had in the longblock to begin with
(granted i AM changing cams, and putting in a heavier duty oil pump, and a windage tray, and got teh heads revalved, and all teh tlc the block needed but didnt recieve from larry)
second, sorry to hijack, (kinda hijack), but we are in similar boats.
third, i have been waiting like 18 some-odd months to rant / rale on larry_h.
lastly, can y'all elaborate on some of the questions below, as mine is the third of a triumvirate of teksids, larry delivered to PMP, all at the same time.
MY engine is currently apart, and i want no larry-hangover in the new build.
1) larry had put the wrong oil pump on my, Ron's, AND Matt's engines.
2) larry did NOT line bore or deck hone the block, (for a fact)
and much worse than that . . .
3) larry somehow omitted the two oil galley plugs on the front of the passenger head, and then buttoned up the front cover., it then galled the passenger cam and cam journals,
i was in a rental car for like 6 weeks, for which has paid only 50% (said he'd pay it all),
while he did pay for a new cam, and a weak attempt to repair the head.
-----in all, he still owes me just under $2k, for the rental, labor and parts to get the engine running again.
then, 11 days after getting it back together, and dyno'd . . .
it fricking snowed, and i spun out, and totaled the convertible - i wish i could find a way to blame that on him as well.
so finally, after sitting for 14 months, the engine is apart, line bored, deck honed, re-balanced, new pistons, (old one were scuffed, somehow), heads re-done, and fixing to go back together next week.
what is the scoop with this,
what do i need to tell my new engine rebuilder to do differently to avoid this?
please elaborate as to what specifically i need to do differently as this is put back together
still for sale?
i didn't either.
how does this affect anything? as the crank is balanced for the INTERNAL rotating assembly,
in a sense : the balancer, clutch, flywheel (and ultimatley the whole tranny, driveshaft, diff., axles, and wheels) could be considered the EXTERNAL rotating assembly. but obviously they dont weigh into crank balancing.
i am not trying to be a smart ass, i just have never heard of the balancer or flywheel being taken into consideration, when balancing the crank, though, now that i write all of this, i guess it KINDA makes sense, (not sure how do-able it is though)
option three for me is going to be like 18 months, now that it is finally drawing to a close,
and it going to cost about 60% of what i alrady had in the longblock to begin with
(granted i AM changing cams, and putting in a heavier duty oil pump, and a windage tray, and got teh heads revalved, and all teh tlc the block needed but didnt recieve from larry)
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Yes we did. Im gonig to have to take the entire cover off just to verify again, but using the timing marks on the crank pulley and based off piston 1 being at TDC it seems off
We know man we arent the only ones. Everyones got it out for him but he doesnt come to forums anymore so theres no point in bitching about him. it solves nothing. id liek to wring his neck too but it wouldnt do any good.
Nothing you can do it was caused by my oil pump failing
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