Motor is gone

[mike@livernois]

I would ignore the Ford drawing as far as it being 100% correct visually. Sometimes the pictures are a little confusing because they don't look 100% like what you will actually have in real life.

For the timing itself, if you have the colored links on both the "L" on the left hand phaser and the "I" or rectangular looking mark on the right hand phaser as well as both other colored links on the dot at the six o'clock position on the crankshaft gear than you are correct and its timed correctly.

The lockouts when installed correctly will put the phaser in the "neutral" or fully advanced position. In this position everything should start up normally and your compression should be equal side to side.

I have to read the rest of the thread and get caught up on some of the other things going on to try and figure out what some of the other issues or questions are. I just skimmed to this post but I saw a couple of things that confused me. I will read a little more back from the beginning and try and post again.

Thanks
Mike

 

[94tbird]

Thanks Mike. I appreciate all your help!!!!

And just to clarify, the L is the Drivers side and the R is the pass side correct?

 

[mike@livernois]

Not a problem, glad I could help.

Yes, the "L" is the driver side and the "R" is the passenger side.

I am still reading back through this trying to catch up but it seems like there were a couple of things that went bad for a couple of people.

Random tidbits, at least from what I have read so far.

Oil pump- Must be 3V pump on a 3V and nothing else. (I assume everyone knows this but I thought just to clarify)

Guide pins- These are the pins that hold the pivoting guides for the timing. If they are breaking off or shearing than something else is wrong. In only the most extreme cases are these usually a failure point. Yes they can be made better and stronger but they should not fail.

I will keep reading as I get a free moment too and try and offer any other insight that might help.

Thanks
Mike

 

[94tbird]

Is piston 1 being at TDC the same as having the crank positioned at 11 o'clock. It would save me from removing the timing cover again

 

[07 procharger]

ya 11ish...with the crank timing mark at 6 o clock....which you cant see with the timing cover on....ive stuck a piece of wire in the spark plug hole while someone else rolled over and found tdc that way before.....bush leauge i know.

 

[07 procharger]

Its nice you find the time to come on here and help people Mike....you must be a busy guy at work no?

 

[94tbird]

I used an Extra long Allen key in the spark plug hole

 

[07 procharger]

i wasint right at tdc here but you can see the timing marks lined up

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

I still want to know why they're breaking. What do you think, Engineer-boy?

I think it is harmonics too based on those pictures--the fucking thing exploded, and that is what happens when one hits a resonant or natural frequency of a gizmo and you exceed its elastic strength--i.e. the material is too damn brittle and it literally explodes.

The natural frequency of that combination must be being reached when a specific RPM occurs with a specific weight of motor oil. That would explain why so many of them are failing.

Anyone got the software to model the resonant (natural) frequency of this setup? Need shit like Young's Modulus, Moment of Inertia...

It is kinda like the opera singer shattering the glass. One must either thicken the glass, change its shape, change its composition (add shit to it, lime, lead, etc.), etc. to keep it from breaking. Just for shits and grins you should see a glass in slow motion when it gets hit with the right frequency. They showed that on Mythbusters not long ago. Damn thing was moving all over the place, exhibiting neat harmonic motion, before it exploded.

Changing the material this part is made from will change its natural frequency, and thus stop it from exploding. Changing the viscosity of the oil will change the dampening factor which should also prevent it from resonating and destroying itself.

Tough metals that come to mind are things like Inconel, Hastelloy, Titanium ($$) etc. Something with some Chrome/Nickle/Moly/Titanium in them. Anyone know what this part is made from? I think whatever it is made of is too brittle; it needs to be made of a different metal, possibly with a special heat treatment, so that can give a bit but not explode!

Unfortunately I am not a materials scientist; I know just enough to be dangerous. However, this is the kind of shit we need here to fully understand this issue.

HTH.

Mike

 

[ZmanM3]

first off, sorry to hear of your problems, i havent been reading the boards much lately.

Hey man, haven't talked to you in a while. Who is rebuilding your engine?

 

[doc stang]

local guy, near clemson,
does a lot of mod motors
johnny durham
got a few good local recommendations

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

local guy, near clemson,
does a lot of mod motors
johnny durham
got a few good local recommendations

Clemson is where I got my MS degree in EE! Great place!

Mike

 

[silverGTvert]

Hey Ron, been gone for awhile but trying to catch up on your car progress. I hope you can get this fixed without costing you another complete motor. Give me a call sometime man.

BTW. This thread is way to technical for me to fully understand but I hope you keep the car.

 

[tapsport]

havent read the whole post, but was thinking about the compression down on one side, have seen motors put together with different heads having different chamber volumes, have you changed heads or had one shaved some?? machine shop might have screwed you, might be dumb suggestion, something to check

 

[94tbird]

I Highly doubt Livernois screwed me

 

[ILW84U]

I know how you feel. I just figured out after my second trip to the dyno (3 hour drive each way) that we must have had the cam timing on my car off by 1 tooth (retarded). My headers were getting red hot. Now I have to pull the front cover off & re adjust the cam timing. Then rent a trailer, again, & another 3 hr trip to the dyno.

 

[PNR Welding]

I Highly doubt Livernois screwed me

Hey Ron, we recently just pulled the caps off to take a look at the bearings and they look like they just started to peel the first layer. So they need to be replaced. Have you checked yours out? At first we werent but we decided to and Im glad we did, cause it could of caused a bigger failure later on.

 

[94tbird]

there are pics of the bearings in this thread somewhere

 

[94tbird]

 

[CJGT]

ron, have you looked at the cam followers/rocker arms? had a bearing on the roller that rides on the cam fail in one, hard to see in engine,but look at height of follower to roller under cam