MSD Launch Master (Combined Threads)

[pmcferron]

I done just as the picture above and it's worked flawless all but one time... Idk what happened that one time lol

 

[Mike K]

Well I got it working after replugging everything back in and I have to say it sounds so badass!

 

[Mike K]

Damn double post.

 

[Diabolical!]

Bringing this thread back before I make the final connection on my 2-step. So what is the general concensus; do I...

a.) wire the white/blue wire from the 2-step to the top clutch switch or

b.) wire the solid blue wire to the bottom clutch switch?

I know it's been gone over a lot, but I never could figure out from this thread what te final verdict was. Thanks.

 

[t-kid]

Bringing this thread back before I make the final connection on my 2-step. So what is the general concensus; do I...

a.) wire the white/blue wire from the 2-step to the top clutch switch or

b.) wire the solid blue wire to the bottom clutch switch?

I know it's been gone over a lot, but I never could figure out from this thread what te final verdict was. Thanks.

Would also like to know. Putting in mine soon.

 

[rojizostang]

http://s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1356187&postcount=5

read the bottom part of the post where i added the edit

 

[crownaviation]

I just spoke with Victor at MSD. He said the activation circuit amperage is milliamps - very low. Looks like no relay is required.

Ok, glad someone has asked this..

So does anyone know if a 200ma reed will work? I must have missed this somewhere and one of the previous links is broken. Anyone recently order one of these?

Just picked up my 2 step from a member on here and it does not have the Magnetic reed switch. Like to get this thing installed for the weekend if possible.

Thanks all

 

[scramblr]

Here are a few companies that carry a Reed switch. The first is the cheapest one.

http://www.tritekelectronics.com/in...roduct_id=86187&Itemid=1&product_currency=USD

http://unlimitedmicro.com/p-1838654-30-10072.aspx

http://www.orvac.com/ShowItem/218987 Magnetic Reed Switch.aspx

 

[rojizostang]

fyi...if you have a standard transmission, you don't need any extra switches.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Had a question on the msd 2 step launch controller for my 2012 5.0. Is there anyway to disable it for a burn out to heat up the DR's or do I have to get out and turn up the limiter and then after the burn out get back out and turn it back down?

-Thomas

 

[Diabolical!]

Had a question on the msd 2 step launch controller for my 2012 5.0. Is there anyway to disable it for a burn out to heat up the DR's or do I have to get out and turn up the limiter and then after the burn out get back out and turn it back down?

-Thomas

Run the hot wire through a toggle switch and switch it off when you do your burn out. That's what I'm doing.

 

[Diabolical!]

http://s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1356187&postcount=5

read the bottom part of the post where i added the edit

Thank you sir.

 

[rojizostang]

Had a question on the msd 2 step launch controller for my 2012 5.0. Is there anyway to disable it for a burn out to heat up the DR's or do I have to get out and turn up the limiter and then after the burn out get back out and turn it back down?

-Thomas

what? this must be an auto and you're footbraking or something. get a line lock, imho.

if you have a line lock and the 2 step is activated by pressing on the brake, or by releasing the clutch pedal, there's no need to turn it off.

i have an extra toggle switch spliced in the ground activation wire under the hood just to turn it off completely when i'm driving around on the street. that's probably not necessary either because there aren't any times when i leave stop lights at 5.5k lol.

 

[Godzirra]

Damn I'd like to get one for my manual car but the nitrous is on the wot switch

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

what? this must be an auto and you're footbraking or something. get a line lock, imho.

if you have a line lock and the 2 step is activated by pressing on the brake, or by releasing the clutch pedal, there's no need to turn it off.

i have an extra toggle switch spliced in the ground activation wire under the hood just to turn it off completely when i'm driving around on the street. that's probably not necessary either because there aren't any times when i leave stop lights at 5.5k lol.

I jumped the gun on posting it. I'm going to just do a toggle switch inline so I can deactivate it. It's a m6 btw.

-Thomas

 

[t-kid]

Damn I'd like to get one for my manual car but the nitrous is on the wot switch

Get a nitrous controller and have 1st locked out.

 

[crownaviation]

I jumped the gun on posting it. I'm going to just do a toggle switch inline so I can deactivate it. It's a m6 btw.

-Thomas

On my auto setup...

Wiring my toggle as we speak lol. I picked up a reed switch locally from a electrical supply company. Had to go to the store cause trying to tell someone what you are doing is a total waste of time lol. Most the shops know these as door swithces. Some trailer supply shops also carry them (used to alert the driver that a door is open).

I will post some pics soon of my toggle setup tonight. I have a painless wiring kit that allows me to add 7 additional circuits. I am using it to provide a normally closed circuit. It will be hot and active any time the brake is in range of the reed switch and the glove box is closed.. I will explain below lol.. When I am not at the track I will just pull the fuse as it is easily accessible.

I decided to use the little rubber grommet on the right side of the glove box to activate the my "toggle" switch. The switch I am using is technically normally open, so it needs to be pressed in to close the circuit allowing juice to flow. For a burnout I will have to open the glove box to remove contact on the switch which will interrupt the power to the reed switch lol. Close the glove box to close the circuit when done with the burnout and the system will again flow power to the reed switch. I HATE swithces and stuff all over the car so I wanted it to be hidden. I also hid my firewire cable, WOT/Window switch and trunk release switch. I think it looks much cleaner imo.

Bout to wire up the reed switch right now. So far the glove box deal is working out great!

EDIT:

OK, finished it up works great! BTW, I did wrap the heck out of the toggle. Everything was soldered, shrink wrapped and ran inside aircraft abrasion proof casing. The reed switch was a PITA to get it adjusted where I wanted it tho..

I did notice if I ease into the gas that the rpm is about 1,000 rpm off the selected value (low). Just experimenting right now but if I lay into it it goes right up to the selected RPM every time. FUN!

My toggle

Located in the top right corner of the glovebox

Shaved the top of the little rubber bumper some to get the door to close correctly. When closed the bumper presses against the switch that is normally open. When pressed it closes the circuit and power flows to the Reed switch. If the brake is pressed, then power continues its path to the 2 step. Tadaa! If I want to do a burnout at the track, I just open the glove box. If I am just cruising I pull the fuse completely disabling the 2 step system altogether. Tired now!

 

[rojizostang]

looks great, but i still don't understand why you need to turn the 2 step off if you have a line lock.

if you just don't want the hassle of installing a line lock, then it makes sense.

 

[gil_t2]

I don't think they understand how the 2Step works. They think if the clutch is depressed it will engage, and they can't do a burnout.

 

[crownaviation]

looks great, but i still don't understand why you need to turn the 2 step off if you have a line lock.

if you just don't want the hassle of installing a line lock, then it makes sense.

^^^ you would not. I have not installed a line lock yet... Not even sure where to start to find one that will work well with the 5r55s