my suspension... what else?

Kaldar142

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+1 on seat time, it does indeed make you a much better all around driver.

its like giving a kid an automatic rifle and a marine a pistol, whose going to be more effective?

i had my fair share of getting schooled by miatas too... even in my WRX when i went for the first time lol :(.


Tracking the car with minimal mods is your best bet, that way when you do modify the suspension more you can actually feel what that part did and appreciate it that much more... learning the car.

Like stated by DusterRT... tires are your best bet.

wider and stickier, also you want to avoid staggered setups if you care about your handling.
 

Kaldar142

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There IS a reason that after only one weekend, the average HPDE-1 driver can increase their corner-exit speed by 25-30%...


+1 to that, when i first tracked my WRX i was using the mid-range powerband in second gear... by my next HPDE i was using the top of 3rd gear in that very same corner.

Brakes are also very very very important, probably more important that suspension itself IMO
 

Gallagher

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im working on a few deals with some brembos at this time hopefully i can find a good pair cheap, but ya i get wat u guys are saying, ok so then besides that ( i AM gettinb rembos very shortly.. wat should i buy next or upgrade next
 

Vapour Trails

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Doodes I needz sum suspensionz kan u halp me?

At least the responses are sensible. Learn and understand, then mod. I'd say 95% of stang drivers have no fucking clue what they are doing when the wheel needs to be turned.
 
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Kaldar142

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I agree... whenever you start talking about suspension, they have no clue what youre talking about and proceed to tell you that their lowering springs made their car handle on rails... lol
 

Gallagher

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i never said that at all? i was simply making this thread because i need more knowledg on wats best and will make my car handle at its very best
 

pcdrj

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..money isnt really a issue so id just like the best parts i can get for the most comfort / no clunks noises anything , i bassically just want best of the best feel i can get


Well... if money isn't an issue I suggest Griggs GR40 ST. Better ride than the typical "stiffening" approach. Also, their SLA will allow you to run 315's all the way around.

With your current setup, I'd get a set of track wheels and run 275-35-18 R888's all around. Also, you don't mention braking which is as important as tires. you can pick up GT500 brakes fairly cheap, get some brake ducts and good pads (Hawk, EBC..lots of opinions here), SS brake lines and some good fluid like Wilwood. Don't waste monery on drilled rotors because they crack easily. Solid or grooved rotors are your best bet.
 
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06Torch

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...

thank u! appreciate it guys fro all the info and help.

Since money is not an issue I would recommend "fixing" the S197's inherent flaws.

1) she's too heavy - light weight cars handle better than heavy cars, period. (AL Driveshaft, Steeda, radiator support, rear seat delete, tubular this and that, etc...)

and
2) she's still nose heavy - even though these cars carry their weight better than any Stang before them, they are still far away from a 50/50 split. Maybe a K-member with an engine setback, battery relocation, pin on hood, etc...

Gerardo
 

Kaldar142

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Since money is not an issue I would recommend "fixing" the S197's inherent flaws.

1) she's too heavy - light weight cars handle better than heavy cars, period. (AL Driveshaft, Steeda, radiator support, rear seat delete, tubular this and that, etc...)

and
2) she's still nose heavy - even though these cars carry their weight better than any Stang before them, they are still far away from a 50/50 split. Maybe a K-member with an engine setback, battery relocation, pin on hood, etc...

Gerardo

not to mention heavy cars eat through brakes and tires like no other
 

DusterRT

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2) she's still nose heavy - even though these cars carry their weight better than any Stang before them, they are still far away from a 50/50 split. Maybe a K-member with an engine setback, battery relocation, pin on hood, etc...


When I had my car corner weighted, it would take 150# off the front end to hit 50/50, or about 100# with a full tank (I had it done with a little less than 1/2 tank). Doable, but not cheap!
 

06Torch

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When I had my car corner weighted, it would take 150# off the front end to hit 50/50, or about 100# with a full tank (I had it done with a little less than 1/2 tank). Doable, but not cheap!
Wow! I thought that number would more like 250-300#. It give me hope! LOL! I really think the engine setback would be huge here. Maybe a 2 inch setback? Not really sure if any company is offering these K-members.

Gerardo
 

SoundGuyDave

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The only way you could do a 2" setback would be to rebuild the entire firewall and trans tunnel area around the motor. With stock setback, and Prothane mounts, I have less than 1" between the bellhousing and the tunnel/firewall joint.
 

Vapour Trails

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2) she's still nose heavy - even though these cars carry their weight better than any Stang before them, they are still far away from a 50/50 split. Maybe a K-member with an engine setback, battery relocation, pin on hood, etc...

Gerardo

53/47 is a terrible weight distribution? Anyway, when I am at any given autocross event, my car is easily more balanced and neutral than the average car in attendance. At the end of the day, making the necessary driving adjustments goes a long way to correcting the inherent problems.
 

Kaldar142

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^^ our cars have pretty decent weight balance, while its not BMW 50/50, its damn close... i just laugh whenever people say its ultra nose heavy; maybe with a iron block and twin screw lol
 

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