NHRA Approved Battery Disconnect

[tmcolegr]

1 gage welding cable for the starter/BEC has been routed to/from the Flaming River (+) battery cable disconnect switch. All terminals were crimped with a battery terminal crimper and heat shrink tubing installed. Boots were installed on the lugs at the (+) battery cable disconnect switch.

After giving it careful consideration, I installed poly wire loom on the cables where they attach to the (+) battery cable disconnect switch. I did this due to their close proximity to the FPDM. I have no idea if this was necessary but figured it would be a good idea.

All interior trim panels have been reinstalled in the trunk. No bulges or tell tale signs of the installation. Sorry for the shitty pictures

One last picture of the Master Battery Disconnect Switch & Fuse Panel. If you look closely you'll notice the only 2 battery cables that are not fused have poly wire loom for additional protection against chaffing

 

[Nickoli]

very nice install. I can confirm that just disconecting the batt will not shut off the car. I installed my switch today and I thought I had a trick up my sleve but it didn't work. I thought that running the power wire for the gt500 fuel system to the other side of the switch from the batt would kill the pumps and batt thus killing the car and all conections to the batt. I was wrong, the alt back fed through the line to power the pump power wire and the car kept running.

here is where I have mine coming out

 

[tmcolegr]

I can confirm that just disconnecting the batt will not shut off the car. I installed my switch today and I thought I had a trick up my sleve but it didn't work. I thought that running the power wire for the gt500 fuel system to the other side of the switch from the batt would kill the pumps and batt thus killing the car and all connections to the batt. I was wrong, the alt back fed through the line to power the pump power wire and the car kept running.

Can you be a little more specific on your battery cable routing that didn't work - I assume you didn't have your (+) battery cable disconnect switch wired as shown in either of the previous wiring diagrams? With either of those setups the alternator is completely separated from the starter/BEC circuits when the switch is disconnected - alternator can't feed back and keep the vehicle running.

By the way, the only reason I didn't run the rod for the deisconnect switch through the light housing as you and some others have done, was because I didn't want water from washing the vehicle to get inside the light housing.

 

[CPRsm]

Nice job. That's where I put mine also. Had a much bigger oval to keep from rubbing the inside than I originally thought it would have.

 

[tmcolegr]

For those of you still reading...

I have edited post# 58 as I posted inaccurate information

Nice job. That's where I put mine also. Had a much bigger oval to keep from rubbing the inside than I originally thought it would have.

Yes you are absolutely correct about the oval being larger than anticipated. When the disconnect switch lever rotates, it causes the rod to move in an arc which requires the hole to be oval shaped. Additionally the Flaming River disconnect switch shaft moves in/out as the lever is rotated which also must be accounted for.

 

[Nickoli]

FYI, I have the summit brand switch kit and it looks to be exactly the same as the flaming river one and it's about $15 cheaper.

 

[tmcolegr]

FYI, I have the summit brand switch kit and it looks to be exactly the same as the flaming river one and it's about $15 cheaper.

I'm sure the only difference in the switches is the Flaming River switch includes a "Push Off" decal and it looks like the Summit switch does not. As it turns out I didn't use the decal supplied with the Flaming River switch anyway - I had one custom made. Could have saved myself $12 by purchasing the Summit switch.

 

[Nickoli]

Nope, mine came with he sticker shown in my last pic under the handle.

 

[krang00]

Sorry to chime in on this thread, but I'm looking to add a battery cut off switch however, my battery has not been relocated to the trunk. I've replaced it with a lighter battery in the same place and would like to hook up a kill switch in the cowl area, something like this:
http://mycarpictures.org/download/58141-2/2010_BMW_Z4_GT3_06.jpg

I'm looking at the heavy duty 4 post unit from Longacre and they have these instructions: http://www.longacreracing.com/instructions/inst.asp?instid=84. Is that how I would wire it up?

 

[PNR Welding]

I know this thread is old but I figure I would updated since I did a little different.

Battery to circuit breaker, circuit breaker to 4 pole disconnect switch/push pull.
The other side of the disconnect goes to BEC, Alternator, and starter.
On the alternator side of the 4pole disconnect I looped my ignition wire around from under steering column.
When pushed to kill car it disconnects the ignition and won't let alternator keep car running.