Odd behavior from my tune yesterday at the track after a run.

2011BaseGT

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I put 12 passes on my car today in the 1/8th mile and noticed if i would speed shift into third the car would slow a bit with a noticeable difference in the engine note. The computer was obviously retarding the Bama 93 race tune so I started short-shifting assuming detonation was happening that I could not hear

Anyways, no big deal normal, but on one pass the timing was retarding, but this time my engine light came on and the engine would barely run and had a noticeable dead cylinder.

So, I'm thinking I did it, I broke my 5.0 and the thoughts start racing.... How am I getting home? How do I tell my wife etc, but I just kill the engine, restart and all is well. Phew.

Then, I ran another 4 passes racing 2010 SS and I put down my best 4 times for the day and no timing retardation and the car felt faster.

I assume this is just normal, but what the hell with the engine light and rough idle? I had QuickTrip 93 so that was probably the issue, or should I bring it up with Bama Tunes?

Best time today while beating a SS with 4.10's and drag radials for the fourth time.

Me:
Reaction - .0016!
60 - 1.9172
330ft - 5.3243
1/8 - 8.0736
Mph - 88.36

2010 SS:
60 - 1.87
330ft - 5.356
1/8 - 8.1838
mph - 88.25
 
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Tucker

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First thing first, use the tuner to read the code.
 

VTXFrank

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Just a quick note that may be completely worthless. BUT, I learned during my tuning of my Civic SI that if I didn't let the car idle for 10 minutes after loading a tune, it would do things like what you describe. So now, even with my 2011 Mustang GT, when I load a tune, I let the car idle for 10 minutes so it can at least learn idle. If I don't on the GT, it will idle roughly/idle seek for the first 100 miles or so after loading a tune.

Had you just loaded up a new tune?
 

2011BaseGT

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Just a quick note that may be completely worthless. BUT, I learned during my tuning of my Civic SI that if I didn't let the car idle for 10 minutes after loading a tune, it would do things like what you describe. So now, even with my 2011 Mustang GT, when I load a tune, I let the car idle for 10 minutes so it can at least learn idle. If I don't on the GT, it will idle roughly/idle seek for the first 100 miles or so after loading a tune.

Had you just loaded up a new tune?

I had loaded it after getting gas, then drove 35 miles, but other than idling in the staging lanes, I did not let it sit for 10 minutes beforehand.
 

Sky Render

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I seem to think it is some kind of engine protection mode. Never had it happen again.

What were your coolant temps, and I don't mean from the crappy stock gauge.

According to the owner's manual of the '11 Mustang, if the engine overheats, it will shut off fuel and spark to alternating cylinders, using them as air pumps in an attempt to cool off the engine. This might be what happened.
 

SlowA$$5.0

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They just do that sometimes if you short shift while the engine is under full load. You are putting unnecessary load and stress on the engine. Rev it to the max and power shift and you can avoid it from ever happening again.
 

302

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What were your coolant temps, and I don't mean from the crappy stock gauge.

According to the owner's manual of the '11 Mustang, if the engine overheats, it will shut off fuel and spark to alternating cylinders, using them as air pumps in an attempt to cool off the engine. This might be what happened.

I don't know. I do not have a real temp gauge in the car yet.
 

stang910

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It's happened to me twice. The car misfires badly and struggles to accelerate. Turn the car off and restart and all is normal again. Both times I was accelerating normally from a stop.
 

Intervention

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Yeah, I've thrown a random misfire code with my car a handful of times from my 93 tune...

Lets just say that THIS time around, my tune is more conservative. I'll lose my 9whp for peace of mind
 

beefcake

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Was the CEL solid or flashing?

If flashing it's a tranny code, although i haven't heard of anything with a manual.

But you won't get a code on your scanner with a tranny code.

Once when my car was stock without a tune (sometime during the first week i had it, lol)

it started bucking and jerking bad and a light came on.

shut the car off, and it was fine. it's done it 3 or 4 times total since i've had the car
 

Meister

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A flashing CEL will not always mean a transmission code....it will represent a real time fault such as a missfire, etc and may not be stored in the memory so your xcal will not pick it up.

I am curious to see if you detect any knock during datalogs, which I would expect as almost 99% of the tunes out there, including people's custom dyno tunes, are showing knock from improper calibration methods. You should not have to short shift a car to prevent knock from happening.
 

2006torquefreak

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Interested to hear more since I am considering running a BBR tune or Bama tune instead of dyno tune for the moment.
 

AMChrisRose

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A flashing CEL will not always mean a transmission code....it will represent a real time fault such as a missfire, etc and may not be stored in the memory so your xcal will not pick it up.

I am curious to see if you detect any knock during datalogs, which I would expect as almost 99% of the tunes out there, including people's custom dyno tunes, are showing knock from improper calibration methods. You should not have to short shift a car to prevent knock from happening.

I'm willing to be if he datalogs he won't see any knock unless it is actual knock. We, too, have figured out the right way to dial in the spark tables without having to worry about the knock sensors jacking with the calibration. This logic really isn't new... it's been around even in 2010 vehicles, just not Mustangs.
 
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