p0133

PUNISHERSTANG

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i installed bbk long tube headers, a jlt CAI, and gt500 tb on my car recently and for the first week or so everything was fine. now intermittenly i get a p0133 code for b1s1 02 slow response. im assuming that is because of the long tubes and searching around about p0133 indicates its a tune issue. now when the car is dead cold and i start it up a drive off i get a hessitation and lack of power. it goes away normally after a minute or two and drives normally. anyone else having the same issues? im scratching my head because it ran great for a week and then i started having issues. ive rechecked tps voltage and its spot on, 02s are working as well. the 02 issue shouldnt make it run rough or cause a hesitation in open loop
 
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iwaxmyjimmy

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It could just be the sensor getting gunked up. I mean they do foul for no real reason. and honestly the length of wire, unless it goes back to the tail pipe and then back to the o2 sensor, wouldn't effect it. But there are pinpoint test to look at that can help you determine the issue at hand.
 

Synister500

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It's in the tune. I had the same problem. I'm assuming you got a tune since you did all the other; if you didn't then you need to. Again I'm going to assume you have a tune since you say it is running in open loop. If you are then why? In open loop the O2 sensors are not read at all. You should run it in closed loop with rear O2 sensors off. The following is an explanation of what is most likely going on if you are actually running in a closed loop. The reason you get it intermittently is because the ECM runs a self test ever so often on the sensors on start up. The O2 sensor have to be heated to a certain range or the ECM will think they are faulty and throw the code. The reason they don't heat up fast enough is because they are further down the manifolds in the collector of the longtubes. The time delay for heat up can be extended in the tune. It took me 4 email tunes (American Muscle sucks IMO and this was before John Lund started doing their tunes), 2 sets of O2 sensors, a couple months of headaches, and finally a custom dyno tune solve this. Most anything you search on this will say, bad sensor, vacuum leak, exhaust leak, bad MAF sensor, and on and on ... Bullshit! Check the simplest thing; exhaust leaks, if that ain't it (and it's probably not) it's in the tune. The reason it stumbles on itself is because it is actually running really rich. To prove this to me my tuner put the car on the dyno with all his equipment hooked up. Upon start up and idle we watched the A/F ratio peg his meter at 16.0 then the ECM compensates and dumps fuel into it. As we sat there watching the A/F ratio then dropped and pegged his meter at 10.0 the car almost died right there and the fumes from the fuel about ran us out. So get it tuned/re-tuned. If it is in open loop and you have this you have a bigger problem; as I said the O2 sensors are not read in open loop. Hope this helps.

BJ
 

PUNISHERSTANG

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ya i got my tune revised from bbr for the new parts. im not running it in open loop but when you first start it up it is in open loop and the engine should be running on a set fuel map based on ect temp not the 02 sensors since they havent even warmed up yet to work. im going to call bbr tomorrow and get it sorted out and hopefully the stumble will go away
 

Synister500

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John will fix it for sure. Scared the shit out of me the first time it stumbled. I changed a bunch of stuff all at once including the gears. I thought something in the rear end had come apart.
 

RyanS197

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Mine does the exact same fucking thing ever since I put the dynatech's in it. The tune has been adjusted 3 times and it still does it, so im real curious to see if John can fix yours.
I tried swapping the sensor with the drivers side last night to see if the code would change (just making sure its not a bad sensor) and of coarse the car is behaving today lol.
Also cant find any exhaust leaks.
The tune for mine is real weird. What it does now is, when it starts acting up like that I can give it a little throttle and the STFT's shoot back to 0%....but then it will start acting up again....then throttle it again....till its warmed up then its fine just like op's.
 
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PUNISHERSTANG

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5 minutes on the phone with john, 5 minutes later tune in my email, ten minutes later the car is running good. bbr rocks! im going on a short 50 mile trip to the shooting range so i will let you know if it stays off. the cold stumble is gone and the idle is better once its warmed up. the longtubes added a nice bit of rumble to the idle but it made me scared at first that it was running rough.
 

RyanS197

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5 minutes on the phone with john, 5 minutes later tune in my email, ten minutes later the car is running good. bbr rocks! im going on a short 50 mile trip to the shooting range so i will let you know if it stays off. the cold stumble is gone and the idle is better once its warmed up. the longtubes added a nice bit of rumble to the idle but it made me scared at first that it was running rough.

That sounds real promising, guess ill give him a call too. I need to place an order for a few things anyways.
 

05roush0090

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i occasionally get the slow response heater circuit code for my o2. I do not worry about it. I just delete the code when I get it. I have got it about 3 times in 3 years with this car and had Long tubes on another car and it occasionally got the same type code. But I can say it did not affect my driveability when it has happened.
 

KungFuHamster

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i occasionally get the slow response heater circuit code for my o2. I do not worry about it. I just delete the code when I get it. I have got it about 3 times in 3 years with this car and had Long tubes on another car and it occasionally got the same type code. But I can say it did not affect my driveability when it has happened.
this. i had andy @ gearheads fix it when it occured, i cleared it and it came back a week later. its been months now and it came back, but i just cleared it and no problems. sometimes stuff happens. its part of changing the car from "stock" to "modified".
 

PUNISHERSTANG

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I couldnt go 10 miles without it coming on. Thats a problem. Its all good now

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 

RyanS197

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Ditto, I couldnt go 1 mile and had to pull over to wait for it to stop acting up because it started to run like it had a huge cam, but with no power at all. Now I can goose the throttle to make it stop but that still isnt right. Should hear from John monday hopefully.
 

ScottW311

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Ryan,

I have Dynatech LT's and a Brenspeed tune. I get the P0133 code about every 1,000 miles and typically occurring during warm starts. It does not give me any noticeable issues. I just clear the code and wait until next time.
 

Synister500

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Guys, it's in the TUNE. Call your tuner if it's custom, or John at BBR for a new tune all together. $60 (N/A tune) for good tune and support if it needs tweaking. Not to mention the the peace of mind and less hassle. It can eventually foul your plugs and O2 sensors when the PCM is trying to correct what it thinks is a lean condition.
 

Weou09

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I guess I will have to give them a call as well. I replaced both o2s thinking that might help, since they did have a good bit of miles on them, but it still does the driver side...oh well it really isnt a bother to much any way.
 

Tylus

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Ditto, I couldnt go 1 mile and had to pull over to wait for it to stop acting up because it started to run like it had a huge cam, but with no power at all.
My car is doing the exact same thing right now. Glad to see this is a "normal" fixable tune thing. I had just put the raw fuel smell down to not having cats and the lack of low speed drivability as part of the cost of driving a modified car

Great, now to get Brenspeed to revise the damn tune again
 

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