P0622 code

[Jcg_3v94]

Code is coming on my car, i have a brand new department or boost alternator just installed, had battery checked and its checking out good, putting out 14.3 volts, what else should i be checking? I checked fuses, wiring looks good, any help?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[msvela448]

I'd get with Jason at Department of Boost and get that alternator swapped out under warranty if possible... Could be a bad diode or loose connection in there.... But it would be the first failure if a DOB alternator I've heard of.

Also, if you have underdrive pulleys, try putting on the stock ones to see if that makes a difference. Sometimes underdrive pulleys cause the alternator to spin to slowly near idle and thus the alternator doesn't charge and the computer detects a problem.

Battery could be the culprit too... If you can try a different battery from another car, give that a try.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[Juice]

Not according to the code, not a diode.
Would have been nice to actually post what the code meant. So I went and.looked it up: generator field control circuit fault. The pcm has a problem with the regulator circuit.
You need to run the tests associated with the code.

Most likely a bad regulator, so yea, warranty that alternator.

 

[DieHarder]

Try running a temporary ground from the passenger side strut tower to bolt that holds the alternator.

I chased a ground problem after my DOB installation for weeks that indicated a bad alternator that I had tested several times locally (tested bad on every machine we tried) and sent back to the manufacturer for testing (and of course tested good). I ended up solving it myself by adding a 4 gauge wire between the strut ground point and the top mounting point for the alternator. The fact that you're getting 14.3v indicates the alternator is charging properly so I would try adding a ground first to see if that doesn't change/solve your symptoms. before sending the alternator back.

Bad/poor/floating grounds will drive all manner of symptoms you won't normally see.
Check out a previous post on the issue: https://www.s197forum.com/threads/odd-charging-issue-help-please.135949/#post-2458659

 

[DieHarder]

After looking at your previous posts on battery light/charging system issues leading up to why you replaced the alternator I'd suspect grounding/cabling/resistance/connection issues. Also given that you have a Saleen SC system and the alternator is mounted backwards it also cannot have a clutch because it has to run in the opposite direction which it can just fine (hopefully that is the case).

First, I'd remove/clean/reconnect every ground I could find including cleaning battery cables. Then (my recommendation), add a ground (4 gauge copper wire) from the passenger strut tower to one of the mounting points for the alternator. You can pick up the items at any HD/Hardware store (wire & lugs. Ensure lug holes are big enough for the bolts). After I added mine my car has never given me an alternator check light or any related problem since.

If that doesn't solve your problem I'd pull down wiring diagrams and start looking at cabling/other areas in the charging system; cable connections, wiring resistance (point-to-point resistance checks), CPU connections, fuse block connections and relays that comprise the charging system. If you happen to know or can find a good electrical specialist/technician (even if you have to take it to a dealer) I'd do it if above doesn't solve your problem (though taking my in for troubleshooting didn't help my problem either...only old-fashioned troubleshooting worked in the end for me).

Chasing ground/charging issues/cabling is vexing. I've been there. Get yourself a good Ohm/Volt Meter, electrical diagrams and a manual. You'll also find plenty of how-to troubleshooting videos on YouTube. Good luck.

 

[DieHarder]

On the back of the alternator there are three wires. Two are sense lines to the PCM (Gen COM (2)/Gen MON (1) and 12v (3)). 12v is easy to check. The other two need an O-scope or dealer equipment but since you already have 14.3v present the system appears to be charging. It may show a charging light but you shouldn't be stranded anywhere provided 14v is present at the battery terminals when the car is running. Other things to check: F43 (10 amp fuse) in the engine fuse block and the Fuseable link (when they start to corrode resistance changes) in addition to the charging system grounds. I've attached a diagram of a charging circuit for a 2006 GT. Yours should be similar. Sorry for the diatribe... just had so many ground issues I'd like to help other's avoid the problems I've experienced.

 

[Jcg_3v94]

Will def check out all the grounds, ill install a new one as well, i checked again last night and its showing high voltage, not sure if im overcharging my battery now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Juice]

Will def check out all the grounds, ill install a new one as well, i checked again last night and its showing high voltage, not sure if im overcharging my battery now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, any higher than 14.7 is a concern and not good for the battery.

 

[Jcg_3v94]

Highest i got was 14.53 but i have a code in my abs saying high voltage i shouldve written it down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Juice]

Put volt meter across battery. Provide readings at: idle, 1500rpms, 3000rpms.

Another test you can try is disconnect the 3 wire plug on the alternator. If the alternator keeps charging (14v or more) it would confirm an alternator issue.
It should NOT charge with the plug disconnected. This will also likely set additional codes in pcm.

 

[Jcg_3v94]

Any pictures of the 4 gauge wire install by chance? Ill be trying that today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jcg_3v94]

Added ground wire, light still came on. Was told that my alternator was spiking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GoatsForLife]

did you ever find a solution? im getting p0622 along with a plethera of sensor codes p0104 (replaced maf already same issues) p2111 and p2104, one said throttle body was wide open the other said tps intermittent issues. Ive had my alternator and battery tested at oreillys both passed. Im going to start chasing grounds down this week.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

did you ever find a solution? im getting p0622 along with a plethera of sensor codes p0104 (replaced maf already same issues) p2111 and p2104, one said throttle body was wide open the other said tps intermittent issues. Ive had my alternator and battery tested at oreillys both passed. I'm going to start chasing grounds down this week.

This might help:

https://www.carparts.com/blog/p0622-code-generator-field-f-terminal-circuit/amp/

Unless the alternator and battery were properly load tested, I wouldn't count on the tests done by O'Reilly's.
The most likely culprit is a bad alternator regulator. Check the voltage across the battery with the engine off, with the engine idling (no electrical loads), and report the results.
A bad regulator usually causes undercharging of the battery but it can also cause overcharging, and the latter may be your problem.

 

[86GT351]

This might help:

https://www.carparts.com/blog/p0622-code-generator-field-f-terminal-circuit/amp/

Unless the alternator and battery were properly loaded tested, I wouldn't count on the tests done by O'Reilly's.
The most likely culprit is a bad alternator regulator. Check the voltage across the battery with the engine off, with the engine idling (no electrical loads), and report the results.
A bad regulator usually causes undercharging of the battery but it can also cause overcharging, and the latter may be your problem.

Correct. Proper testing of a battery or Alternator is a bench test. Not just checking voltage across terminals. Load testing is very important.