P2104 & P2111 codes

[Hollowdweller]

Been having some high reving issues since the rebuild. Tuner is aware and trying to help with the issue but I dont really want to hassle him with it if it’s not a tuning issue. According to the tuner everything I’m sending him looks good but is sending different files to help try to detect the problem thru data logging.

I’ve only driven the car MAYBE 75miles since rebuild…can’t keep her running long enough to go to far lol!! During driving the car will idle up to 3500 and stay there until I come to a complete stop, then hang a few secs and drop to 900rpm. This happens 2-3 times during a 5 mile trip thru town. Yesterday I didn’t get 20ft outta the driveway and it idled up. I pull over & stopped, wait a few secs and it drops to 500rpm (900 normally) and the wrench light pops up. When I turn around to head home the car has no throttle response. It feels like it’s flooding out every time I try to give it gas. Car stays at 500rpm, sounds like it’s gonna die but doesn’t. Pull codes and get P2104 & P2111 (P0579 cruise control related I think)

I added a BBK throttle body during rebuild. Voltage test was .171 stock and is now .190….could that voltage difference be the issue? Research on the codes said the TB motor could be getting stuck..blades spring back good IMO. Thought about trying to get another rotation on the spring, maybe needs more pressure?

I dunno….looking for tests to run, things to check, sensors to replace, could .019 voltage difference cause this? Vacuum leaks?….how do I actually check those? I mean I’ve tightened and redone them several times now

I’ve deleted all the EGR stuff off, tuner is aware

 

[Hollowdweller]

When I say “during driving the car will idle up to 3500 rpm”…I really mean, I can feel the car pulling when I let off the gas. When I push in the clutch it revs up to 3500rpm and stays there. If I release the clutch it goes back to 1500rpm bcz it’s pulling the car around.

 

[07 Boss]

Aren't you supposed to match the voltage on the TB when you change it out???

I would try the stock TB. Not sure why you wanted to go with the BBK TB. They are temperamental at best.

 

[GlassTop09]

Voltage test was .171 stock and is now .190….could that voltage difference be the issue?

Hi Hollowdweller,

You might want to revisit your BBK #1763 TPS voltage readings (thus the TB KOEO TPS calibration) as these you posted don't jive w\ the Spanish Oaks ECM relative TPS calibration voltage ranges........
Did you pull these voltages from the correct wire off the TPS sensor..........also did you get\record these voltages prior initial disassembly of the stock TB?

Here is the BBK pdf (I'm sure you have this but I'm posting this to show that I also have this as well...........I've owned\ran this same BBK #1763 62mm TB successfully before thus I'm familiar w\ it's installation, TPS calibration procedure & operations) provided below & look at pg 3 which is covering the very issues w\ this BBK TB you're posting about & also gives the proper Spanish Oak ECU's KOEO TPS calibration voltage specs\ranges you also should have set\tested within if you did this correctly, but don't be surprised if the sealed low end TPS KOEO voltages of a stock TB go lower than the 1.19v range shown on this BBK pdf as the OEM low range can go as low as 1.16v (my stock OEM TB was physically set at this KOEO voltage by Ford.........verified thru 2 separate TPS sensors at the time).

Hope this helps.

 

[Hollowdweller]

Hi Hollowdweller,

You might want to revisit your BBK #1763 TPS voltage readings (thus the TB KOEO TPS calibration) as these you posted don't jive w\ the Spanish Oaks ECM relative TPS calibration voltage ranges........
Did you pull these voltages from the correct wire off the TPS sensor..........also did you get\record these voltages prior initial disassembly of the stock TB?

Here is the BBK pdf (I'm sure you have this but I'm posting this to show that I also have this as well...........I've owned\ran this same BBK #1763 62mm TB successfully before thus I'm familiar w\ it's installation, TPS calibration procedure & operations) provided below & look at pg 3 which is covering the very issues w\ this BBK TB you're posting about & also gives the proper Spanish Oak ECU's KOEO TPS calibration voltage specs\ranges you also should have set\tested within if you did this correctly, but don't be surprised if the sealed low end TPS KOEO voltages of a stock TB go lower than the 1.19v range shown on this BBK pdf as the OEM low range can go as low as 1.16v (my stock OEM TB was physically set at this KOEO voltage by Ford.........verified thru 2 separate TPS sensors at the time).

Hope this helps.

I see what I did wrong….I hope!! The voltage I wrote down was 1.171. I’m guessing when set the BBK I set it to 0.179, couldn’t get it right at .171. Guess it got alittle more off with the .190 reading. When I saw you wrote 1.16 & 1.19 it hit me square it the jaw what I’d done lol!! Thank you!!! Will fix and post results. Man I can’t believe that….

 

[GlassTop09]

I see what I did wrong….I hope!! The voltage I wrote down was 1.171. I’m guessing when set the BBK I set it to 0.179, couldn’t get it right at .171. Guess it got alittle more off with the .190 reading. When I saw you wrote 1.16 & 1.19 it hit me square it the jaw what I’d done lol!! Thank you!!! Will fix and post results. Man I can’t believe that….

No problem..................from practical experience, I know that these simple, easily correctable mistakes are what the large majority of this BBK 62mm TB's poor reputation is forged from.........not necessarily the product itself.

1 thing I'll mention to be on the lookout for concerning this TB, is that these TB's outer butterfly shaft seals (seals located under the TPS sensor & the actuator motor) may start leaking over time of usage & if bad enough can start to slowly negatively affect your STFT+LTFT fueling readings thru excessive unmetered air entry. Mine had started leaking after being in service some 3+ yrs (I found these leaks accidentally while doing a smoke leak test recheck on induction side after finding a bad brake booster check valve that had a pinhole leak in it on my initial smoke leak test........showed up once I removed the worst leak from the system--reason for tests was due to finding STFT+LTFT readings had walked out of acceptable range after a dyno tune had been done).

Most likely my finding was an exception & not the norm w\ this BBK #1763 62mm TB.........but it can happen so I'm just letting you know this to be aware.

Since you've already eliminated the main source of unmetered air thus unaccounted for fuel entry around the MAF (EVAP system), your STFT+LTFT fueling readings should more readily show up any outside air entry thus should be more easily noticed.

Hope this helps.

 

[Hollowdweller]

Wooohooo….1st test drive was a SUCCESS!! Took a few times to get it right on. Every time I’d reassemble the motor/housing, after removing it to set the set screw, the reading would be different. Ending adjusting the sensor as the BBK instructions suggested.

Thanks for the info on the seals, throw it on a 3yr pm list just in case!! I ran a 75mm BBK on my 2002 Kenne Bell GT and liked it, never had any issues. This was clearly my screw up lol

Thanks for the help!!

 

[GlassTop09]

Wooohooo….1st test drive was a SUCCESS!! Took a few times to get it right on. Every time I’d reassemble the motor/housing, after removing it to set the set screw, the reading would be different. Ending adjusting the sensor as the BBK instructions suggested.

Thanks for the info on the seals, throw it on a 3yr pm list just in case!! I ran a 75mm BBK on my 2002 Kenne Bell GT and liked it, never had any issues. This was clearly my screw up lol

Thanks for the help!!

No problem, Hollowdweller..........glad you got it all sorted out.

Also............Merry Christmas to you & fam as well...........

PS edit--While it was on my mind--before I forget--if you ever run into these TB's developing a tendency to stick\drag when just off idle, this is usually due to the plastic gear teeth pitch becoming slightly out of mesh w\ the actuator motor's metal drive gear from wear (also is where the wound butterfly shaft return spring's tension is at its weakest).

Even though all the literature will tell you to not put any type of lubrication on these plastic TB butterfly shaft gears as they don't\shouldn't need it........I've found that a little dab of white lithium grease (I personally have used this myself) will eliminate all this issue going forward as lithium is perfectly safe to use on plastics & once a film is established on a surface, it stays there so 1 application is all that is needed.

This will also apply to any OEM TB as well due to same design. Most likely you'll never need to do this.................but if you do............

Hope this helps.