Panhard bar bolts seized to the sleeves...not fun times on the '05 GT

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

I was loosening up all the rear suspension bolts for a spring, control arms, and panhard bar swap when the fun ended with both p-h bar bolts and the passenger side sway bar frame bolt seized to the sleeve inside the factory bushings.
The nuts are off, but no way I can get the bolts out. I tried hammering out the pass. side ph bar bolt, but no movement. Same with the sway bar bolt.
No way I can try to hammer out the driver's side PH bar bolt.

Feeling pretty frustrated right now.
The bolts turn, and, turn, and turn....

Any tips ?

Yep, those steel bolts inside of a steel sleeve lightly pressed into a rubber bushing....after 11 years exposed to the elements, what could possibly go wrong ?

 

[2005Redfire6]

I have had issues with those bushings binding a little, try prying the ends a little to see if it is causing the bolts to hang up on the bolt holes.

 

[Kuplex]

Have any PB Blaster? I'd soak them good (as well as you can given the location) and wait an hour or so. I've had good luck with that. Other than that, 2000Redfire6's suggestion sounds good too.

 

[46Tbird]

The nuts are off, but no way I can get the bolts out.

Don't the nuts have the 'tongue' or tab on them that keeps them in place for assembly/disassembly?

(arrow here is not pointing at the tab; the tab is the metal piece immediately in front in this photo)

Anyway, after 25 years of fooling with old and rusty cars, I've never had a bolt stuck in a sleeve. No matter how much rust. If there's no thread engagement, that bolt should push out, and usually just by hand. Maybe there is enough vehicle weight at that attachment point that it's keeping it from moving? With the body securely on jackstands, you might try lifting and lowering the rear axle with those loose and keep trying to knock them out.

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

Thanks for all the tips guys !

I have been spraying with PB blaster every day.

46T-Bird : The nuts are off the car, but I tried hammering the passenger side bolt out after that but no movement.

Without a way of grabbing that steel sleeve with vice grips while turning the bolt, there's no way in hell I'm going to save the bolt or the panhard bar.
Luckily for me, I don't need the stock one as I have an adjustable one to put on.

The plan now is to take the rear end out ( since I need to put 4.56 gears in it anyways) and then torch the drivers side ph bar end off without damaging the rear end housing bracket. ( doesn't look like I can get my 4 1/2 grinder in there)

The passenger side looks straight forward....cut both sides of the p-h bar bushing with the grinder (hopefully)

This has been the only pita bolts I have encountered yet in this build. All the other rear suspension bolts loosened up as normal.


edit: after I installed the 1 1/2 inch lowering springs, the rear end is 3/16 " further to the driver's side, so for now I will leave it as is.

 

[01yellerCobra]

I had this happen to a leaf spring bolt on my old 70 Mustang. The bolt was seized to the sleeve in the bushing. What we had to do was get a saw blade between the spring and the mount and cut the bolt. It was slow going but it came out.

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

I have had issues with those bushings binding a little, try prying the ends a little to see if it is causing the bolts to hang up on the bolt holes.

On the passenger side, I tried getting a screwdriver under the bolt head and apply pressure while turning the bolt. It only move 1/8th inch and no more.

On the driver's side, I am going to try to use a crow bar and apply pressure to the threaded bolt end while turning the bolt.

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

I had this happen to a leaf spring bolt on my old 70 Mustang. The bolt was seized to the sleeve in the bushing. What we had to do was get a saw blade between the spring and the mount and cut the bolt. It was slow going but it came out.

I have a feeling that will be my only choice...cut it out

 

[Kuplex]

You've got the pumpkin slightly jacked up to alleviate tension right?

 

[Speedboosted]

You've got the pumpkin slightly jacked up to alleviate tension right?

Bingo. Reload the suspension to get all that stress off the bolt. Jack up the pumpkin until you can hammer it out.

 

[Phil1098]

Yeah, at this point it's acting as a shear pin. Once the sweet spot is found with the load taken off (pumpkin jacked a bit) it may all but fall out.

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

Interesting.

I had the car jacked up and jack stands under the frame supporting the weight, and the rear was hanging with the shocks still hooked up.

I did not realize there could be pressure on those ph bar bolts.

 

[Mustang dog]

I hand the same issue, I took a saws all to my bolts and had to cut both sides of the bolts to get it out. Have a look at the top of the stock ph bar and you'll see the stud stuck in the sleeve.

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

I hand the same issue, I took a saws all to my bolts and had to cut both sides of the bolts to get it out. Have a look at the top of the stock ph bar and you'll see the stud stuck in the sleeve.

I think that is exactly how I will have to get mine out

 

[46Tbird]

Interesting.

I had the car jacked up and jack stands under the frame supporting the weight, and the rear was hanging with the shocks still hooked up.

I did not realize there could be pressure on those ph bar bolts.

After hearing how you are doing this ("jack stands under the frame supporting the weight, and the rear hanging"), I am now 100% certain that the weight of the rear end is keeping you from getting those bolts out. The bolts are only ten years old - and galvanized. They are not rusted to the panhard bushing sleeves.

Don't hack all that shit up... put a floor jack under the rear axle, and start lifting it up. Once you relieve the axle weight from those panhard bolts, you will probably be able to pull them out by hand. It may take some light tapping from a hammer at most.

PS - I've had a few Thunderbirds myself.

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

After hearing how you are doing this ("jack stands under the frame supporting the weight, and the rear hanging"), I am now 100% certain that the weight of the rear end is keeping you from getting those bolts out. The bolts are only ten years old - and galvanized. They are not rusted to the panhard bushing sleeves.

Don't hack all that shit up... put a floor jack under the rear axle, and start lifting it up. Once you relieve the axle weight from those panhard bolts, you will probably be able to pull them out by hand. It may take some light tapping from a hammer at most.

PS - I've had a few Thunderbirds myself.

Cool looking Birds you have. I see you like them lowered

 

[46Tbird]

Yeah. And from that group of pictures, you'd think I only like them from a low angle. Heh.

I really like the Centerline / TRX trick you pulled off. That's a great idea. That sawed off Bronco is cool as hell, too.

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

Yeah. And from that group of pictures, you'd think I only like them from a low angle. Heh.

I really like the Centerline / TRX trick you pulled off. That's a great idea. That sawed off Bronco is cool as hell, too.

Thanks !

I need to fix the rear end in the Bronco II.
Been sitting 2 years after I sheared some teeth off the 7.5 ring gear.
This '05 GT Stocker has been consuming all my time lately, but after next week I will park it for awhile.

 

[hockeygod]

As long as you are replacing the pan hard bar why not heat it up along with loading/ unloading the suspension.

 

[jdshwk]

this is a very old posting but i have been searching internet for this issue and i found this. i must say after reading all i'm about to point i'm going to have to saw it out. kinda assumed id have too but hoping for something i hadn't tried yet. Ive tried everything that was mentioned here. i have rear end out no tension whatso ever and it wont budge at all. ugh i was not wanting to have to cut it out that will be a slow pain lol.