PCV Oil Seperator Install

jdlatil

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MrClean have you installed system yet? Still waiting on those pictures.
 

MrClean

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MrClean have you installed system yet? Still waiting on those pictures.
Welcome to the forum! That was your 1st post!

Sorry, I wasn't aware that anyone was waiting for them....here they are...

One of the pics was taken today...after I added a piece of hard hose from the OEM/stock PCV hose as an extension.....it was a little too short, but once you get a hose over one of those Earl barbs...well it ain't coming off! So the only solution was to cut the hose in the middle and add the extension, which worked out really well.
 
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ixtlan

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Nice setup.
I still like my "Ghetto" version.
Lot cheaper and I am a tightass so it fits me personality.
:beat:
 

MrClean

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Nice setup.
I still like my "Ghetto" version.
Lot cheaper and I am a tightass so it fits me personality.
:beat:
I have one too! Worked just fine, but this way I get to wait 1800 miles between emptyings.... FOR SALE: $50 +shipping, with all the fittings/hoses (less the quick disconnects to valve cover and intake)
 

andyman

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I have one too! Worked just fine, but this way I get to wait 1800 miles between emptyings.... FOR SALE: $50 +shipping, with all the fittings/hoses (less the quick disconnects to valve cover and intake)

Is it $50? I'll take it for $50, no problemo!!
 

johnrehder

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Another moroso set up

I bought and installed the Moroso setup with wire reinforced hoses and Earl's fittings, first class setup IMHO. I included a picture ofthe inside of the can. The lower side fitting pulls the vacuum from the vavle cover and the nasty air filters through the element then down the tube and back into the fitting right behind the throttle body.
Pictures attached.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 347pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=462 border=0 x:str><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-LEFT-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-BOTTOM-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-TOP-COLOR: #ebe9ed; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-RIGHT-COLOR: #ebe9ed" height=17>MOR-63401 3" can bracket 6.95</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-LEFT-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-BOTTOM-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-TOP-COLOR: #ebe9ed; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-RIGHT-COLOR: #ebe9ed" height=17>SPE-3260 5/8" clamps (qty-2) 13.90</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-LEFT-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-BOTTOM-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-TOP-COLOR: #ebe9ed; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-RIGHT-COLOR: #ebe9ed" height=17>EAR-403010ERL 3ft -10 Perform-O-Flex hose 32.39</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-LEFT-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-BOTTOM-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-TOP-COLOR: #ebe9ed; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-RIGHT-COLOR: #ebe9ed" height=17>EAR-9892120ERL Female -12 to Male -10 reducer (qty-2) 33.50</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-LEFT-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-BOTTOM-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-TOP-COLOR: #ebe9ed; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-RIGHT-COLOR: #ebe9ed" height=17>EAR-812010ERL -10 120* swivel-seal hose end 25.95</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-LEFT-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-BOTTOM-COLOR: #ebe9ed; BORDER-TOP-COLOR: #ebe9ed; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-RIGHT-COLOR: #ebe9ed" height=17>EAR-800110ERL -10 straight swivel-seal hose end 10.95</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>





Welcome to the forum! That was your 1st post!

Sorry, I wasn't aware that anyone was waiting for them....here they are...

One of the pics was taken today...after I added a piece of hard hose from the OEM/stock PCV hose as an extension.....it was a little too short, but once you get a hose over one of those Earl barbs...well it ain't coming off! So the only solution was to cut the hose in the middle and add the extension, which worked out really well.
 

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slicksilver

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I'm currently trying to build my own right now.. I went to Home depot last night and bought the filter, and some fittings, and the hose repair kit.

I just need to know how to go from a 3/8" to a 5/8" fitting so it'll fit the PCV hose? What do I need?

MSGT, what store did you buy your fittings from?
 
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MrClean

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Your Moroso looks great John!

Slicksilver: Home Depot/Lowes has push-lock type fittings that will fit into your 3/8" hose, and the other threaded side will fit into the 5/8" hose. I did this with my Steeda AOS setup, and used a hoseclamp to hold the hose tight onto the threaded fitting. Kinda sounds liek "rigging", but it works.
 

slicksilver

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Thanks MRClean! What kind of hose should I use? I think heater hose may collapse, but hydraulic hose is way too stiff to make bends with. It's too tight. Heater hose becomes oil soaked. So, what type of hose should I use?

Thanks!

..I priced some Russel -10 oil hose (4 ft).. $50.00!!!!! No way..
 

MrClean

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Autozone has 5.8" PCV hose which is perfect. It's cheap, so just buy a long enough piece so that you can make a loop which allows you to make bends, or when you're at Home Depot/Lowes, looking for your fittings, buy an/some elbows which will allow you to make 90º and 180º turns.
Do not use heater hose!!
 

GRAYPNY

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I moved mine over the strut tower to make room for the shaker hose. I decided to go with braided hose too since I wanted some more bling.
 
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MrClean

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I moved mine over the strut tower to make room for the shaker hose. I decided to go with braided hose too since I wanted some more bling.
Ahh, you have the Moroso unit. How did you secure the bracket? Did you screw it into the shock tower? Did the shaker make your power more consistent, in terms of feeding cool air, or no noticeable effect?
 

slicksilver

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I am a little worried about the restricted flow going into the filter. A 5/8" hose going down to a 3/8" into the filter may not allow the crankcase to vent properly. If it cannot vent into the intake, it will certainly vent somewhere else, somewhere you do not want like a valve cover gasket. :zipped: The routing of the hose also concerns me. This too may interfere with the ventilation of the crankcase? There is really no easy way to mount this thing, especially when you have a flimsy C&L filter box.
I wish Ford used 3/8" hose ends like the 4-V's. I wonder why Ford went to 5/8"? Maybe because it only vents from one valve cover instead of two like the 4-V's did??? Has anyone had a homemade kit installed long enough to report back any pos. or neg. outcomes? Sorry to be so worrisome, I just want to take care of my baby! Shoot, I change my oil every 1,500 to 1,800 miles with Mobil One full synthetic, people think i'm crazy! They may be right:la:
 

GRAYPNY

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Ahh, you have the Moroso unit. How did you secure the bracket? Did you screw it into the shock tower? Did the shaker make your power more consistent, in terms of feeding cool air, or no noticeable effect?

The shaker is a cosmetic mod IMO but I wanted to at least plumb it into the sheild.

I have the Stef's unit not the Moroso and yes the bracket is bolted to the shock tower. Very secure and it gets it out of the way for the hose. I got away with 3 ft of braided hose after moving it to the tower. When it was mounted to the heat sheild I probably had 4 ft of hose.
 

ixtlan

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I have had no problem with mine. I dump it regularly and it really has not been a problem at all.
It has just become part of my routine when I check levels.
 

slicksilver

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This is how you do it. No restriction, no crazy loops or fittings, just like factory but with a filter. All you have to do is disconnect the quick connect and lift up to unscrew the filter!
 

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ixtlan

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Absolutely that is the way.
I wanted to keep my original tubing setup and am too cheap to buy a new one to cut up. Hence the loop and what not.
One day... (Yea right) I will buy one somewhere and cut it up.
 

DoctorQ

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I opted to go with the larger catch can (Moroso) and eliminate the crazy PCV line loop (strait shot from can to PCV valve). Also, attached Moroso to the strut tower with a T-strap. Upper 2 holes used to attach Moroso bracket... bottom single hole used to attach to strut tower. Used rubber grommets & washers to allow unit to 'flex' slightly under load.. thus taking pressure points off connectors as engine torques.
 

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