PCV Oil Seperator Install

slicksilver

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I just got back from a trip to the mountains and after 1,000mi. of total driving, I emptied the filter about 6 times. It appears that it would have used about 1/4 of a quart of oil if I had not collected it and put it back in the motor. I had no idea that these 3-V's used so much oil! If you waited the 5,000mi. the manual states between oil changes, you would use over a quart of oil! NOT GOOD! and on top of that, you have that much oil running by your runner plates gumming them up! I recomend that anyone not using this setup either changes their oil no later than 3,000mi. or adds 1/2 a quart every 2,500mi. to 3,000mi. This filter is a great idea!
 

ixtlan

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I just got back from a trip to the mountains and after 1,000mi. of total driving, I emptied the filter about 6 times. It appears that it would have used about 1/4 of a quart of oil if I had not collected it and put it back in the motor. I had no idea that these 3-V's used so much oil! If you waited the 5,000mi. the manual states between oil changes, you would use over a quart of oil! NOT GOOD! and on top of that, you have that much oil running by your runner plates gumming them up! I recomend that anyone not using this setup either changes their oil no later than 3,000mi. or adds 1/2 a quart every 2,500mi. to 3,000mi. This filter is a great idea!

That tends to taper off after awhile. Initially it is high then slows down.
Never found a good reason for it though.
 

slicksilver

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I did not want to cut my original PCV tube either, so I bought a new one from ford. They actualy are not very expensive. It cost me $15. Between the hyd. hose, fittings, filter, and new tube I had about $70 tied up in this setup total. Some of the expense was trial and error :( Should only cost about $50 if you get the right stuff to start with.

Heres what I used:
3/8 x 1/4 Brass Fittings by Husky (x2) ($2.95e)

Air Compressor Filter by Husky ($12.00)

3/8" Oil hose (Transmission Oil Hose) (Put on fittings and cut off at the end of fittings) (Need about 2" on each end of fitting) ($? I had some already) The 3/8" hose has a perfect fit into the 5/8" hose and creates a super tight seal.

5/8" Parker Double steel braided Hyd. Hose. about a foot total (Double steel braided is over kill but it will last forever and I had some where I work:clap:
(Russell oil hose was my original choice, but it will set you back $70 for 3')
(If you go with the Parker hose you will need about 12" at about $15.00 per foot) Slide the 5/8" hose over the 3/8" hose that you slipped over the fitting ends.

5/8" hose clamps (x4) (everyones got these around) (new about $.75c e)

Original Style (OEM) Motorcraft PCV tube ($15 to $25 depending on price level set by Ford dealership)

I also like to keep a 5/16" nut driver in my car so I can take the assy. completly off about every third or forth time to check the o-rings and fit to the VC and Intake.

I sure do hope the car doesen't continue to vent as much oil as it currently is w/ 14,000 mi. on it. Its not a two cycle engine last time I checked:laughlots:
 

slicksilver

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Hey Willie. What do you mean the "white filter" is not compatible w/ full synthetic oil? I am using Mobil One full syn. and my filter still has the white element. What does does it hurt to use w/ synthetic? It seems to be working ok?
 

ixtlan

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Hey Willie. What do you mean the "white filter" is not compatible w/ full synthetic oil? I am using Mobil One full syn. and my filter still has the white element. What does does it hurt to use w/ synthetic? It seems to be working ok?
I use AMS Oil and no problems at all.
Since April of 07
 

MrClean

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I've used RP or M1 in mine (Steeda) for several months with no problems...and when it wasn't in use (while I had my 1st Moroso installed), it sat in the garage with oil in the filter/bowl and no sign of any deterioration...in fact I took it apart to inspect because of these claims, and it looked A-OK.
However, that inspection of the Steeda AOS allowed me to see how small the hole is for the crankcase venting to happen, and in the interest of preventing leaks from gaskets on the engine, today I ordered another Moroso with bracket and Earl's fittings. Will post pics of my install...I'm thinking of placing it lower down in the engine bay....
 

ixtlan

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is this necessary even for a car with a few bolt ons?

IMO
Yes even a stock car.
Ford designed a poor setup with the PCV system they used.
Will it hurt anything not having it?
Well you judge that.
I see shorter plug life.
Fuel mixture effects.
Valve deposit buildup.
Combustion chamber buildup.
There are a few possible effects.
 

mykim72

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how about on a remote mount twin turbo? i always thought this was just for superchargers
 

mykim72

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after a little research im jumping on board too...so the catch can without the breather would be simpler to set up right?
 

Dex

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I let everything breath including the oil cap. It vents and some oil vapor builds up around the oil cap breather. I just wipe it off
 

Redwolf

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I let everything breath including the oil cap. It vents and some oil vapor builds up around the oil cap breather. I just wipe it off


That's what I did. I capped off the intake from the driver and passenger side, then put breathers on the driver and passenger valve covers. Not a drop of oil gets into my intake, even the hot air doesn't get sucked in.
 

jroc07gt

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That's what I did. I capped off the intake from the driver and passenger side, then put breathers on the driver and passenger valve covers. Not a drop of oil gets into my intake, even the hot air doesn't get sucked in.

but wouldnt you be stopping needed air from entering the intake? im just asking cuz the ecu might be tuned to compensate for this air since its after the maf.
 

jroc07gt

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The Husky one was better flowing then the one I got at HF.
It wasnt the one you got though.
If you can blow thru it easily it should be ok.
The Husky is carried by Home Depot.

i went to harbor freight today and all they had was one with 50 micron paper filter. wouldnt 50 microns be too much?
 

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