Good point. When I said "deep", I didn't mean putting the top bulb out. Normally, I stage as shallow as I can, so when I go "deep", it's usually only 2 or 3 inches more.
With those tall-assed tires you run on the front I can imagine.
yes deep staging is allowed.
Good. When I had the car stock (N/A) I would idle the car into the first beam (top bulb). Make sure you just do light the bulb. Don't lurch into the first beam. With the top bulb on I would push the brake pedal down firmly and bring the car up on the converter to the launch rpm. Once the engine is at the proper RPM I would ease my left foot up off the brake just enough to let the car creep forward. If you do it right you can actually hear the brakes "groan" a little. This will let the car creep very slowly into the second beam (bottom bulb) and continue on until the top bulb just does go off.
This will take quite a bit of practice. I would practice in the garage. I had a workbench on the drivers side of the car with a yardstick nailed to the face of the bench so I can see it from the driver's seat. This way, I could see how far the car would creep while listening to the brakes groan. You can get a good idea of how far the car moves in relation to the sound of the brakes.
Now this was with a five tenths pro tree. With a four tenths pro tree you might need to creep the car in deeper. Once the top bulb goes off you have roughly four-six more inches before you redlight. Once the top bulb goes off you might need to creep another inch or two. This will depend on your front tire height also. However, you need to be ready for the tree to flash once your top bulb goes out. With the car loaded against the converter you need to treat the brake pedal like a clutch pedal. Also....while you're rolling in deep you need to keep a "dead eye" on the top bulb until it goes out. Once you turn it out DO NOT LOOK DOWN at the other bulbs. In the time it takes for you to break focus on the staging bulbs and attempt to refocus on the three amber bulbs the tree will flash and you will flinch. Then....you're late.
The biggest advantage you can have over your competition is practice. Seat time is invaluable in pro tree racing. Get a log book and take notes on every pass. Even if you don't have a weather station you can use a simple thermometer/barometer combination gauge package from a hardware store or home improvement store. Keep notes on tire pressure (front and rear), launch rpm, if you were "quick-treed" by the starter or if he let you get set, how far you rolled in, etc, etc. I would put 40 psi into the front tires to kill the rollout which will quicken the r/t for that four tenths pro tree. Take notes and make laps. Lots of laps.
Last thing I'm going to give up on this subject.
Don't think. When you strap yourself in quit thinking. Just do your routine. Period. Clear your mind. No extraneous thoughts, no shit-talking to yourself, no hyping yourself in the car, no emotions.........nothing.
Just your routine. Don't think. Act and react. You need to be one with the car. Think of it as a cyborg-type relationship.......a blending of man and machine. Machines don't think.
I can't tell you how many times I've tried to help someone with their driving. The one key thing goes like this...........
Me: "When you were staging the car what were you thinking?"
Driver: "Well....I was thinking.........."
Me: "Stop. There's your problem."
Don't think.
) I suck at sportsman trees. When I'm on a pro tree, I don't have enough time to think. I'm just going through the motions of setting up and by the time I'm set - it's about go time and I'm just reacting from any hint of amber on any of the bulbs. I said 'first bulb' but I meant ANY bulb. Because of the time of day, position, etc, etc (a million things) sometimes you can have a skewed view of the 'top' or first bulb - so on a pro tree, I'm looking at the stage bulbs as SD said directly but indirectly I am watching the whole tree and looking for any hint of amber and when I see anything - I let go of the button and go. 
