Procharger P1SC Stage II Kit Install PICS/VIDS

8WOOD

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P1SC Stage II Install Experience and Review

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Product purchased

Evolution 675 HP KIT comes with Ford Racing 47lb injectors and NGK Spark plugs “1 Heat Range Colder.” 7psi pulley, 91 octane tune, helical gears for sound reduction.

Link: to product: http://www.evoperform.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=267_334_335&products_id=1105

Total Cost: 5,900 for supercharger
+250 for Jon Lund Dyno Tune
+160 for 2 hours on the Dyno
6310 for total completed product
+100 dollars in Wall-Mart tools
6410 installed and completed in a carport.

Other Mods: NONE

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DyonJet readings. HP 551 TQ 451 rpm SAE: HP 586 TQ 471

Total install time for this mechanic about 15 hours in a car port. Could probably install it in about 4-6 hours now that I’ve done it once.

So these are my first impression after opening the box. The kit comes in a extremely well packed box with plenty of protection so thumbs up to pro charger for that. The box is over 100 shipping weight. I know some people have said that the Procharger system is most likely lighter than a twin screw set up. Having installed Whipple systems on other cars I'll have to say they are probably within 10-15 lbs of each other. The main reason for this is the heavy piping used for the intercooler. I don't have a scale but I guesstimate they are about 5 pounds each, so that's a total of 20 pounds. The turbo system I had on my Evo used aluminum pipes and they were much lighter. It would have been nice if they would have utilized some lighter metal for these pipes.

The intercooler is very thick and fairly tall, I'm still wondering how it's suppose to fit :). I'm disappointing in lack of care to keep the intercooler clean. The one I have almost looks like it was installed on a vehicle and then removed. It's dirty has some paint scuffs on it, and the inside of the tanks are covered in dust, which means dust will be going into my engine. I'm most likely will spray the thing out and then let it dry before i put it on.

Here is the most disappointing part about the actual centri charger. The casting has not been cleaned up from the factory. I looked at the outlet hole to find metal shavings just sitting there. I then proceeded to use my finger nails to scratch off several more casting shavings from the outlet side. If anyone had just thrown this supercharger on those shavings would have either been stuck in the intercooler or found their way into the engine! It could also be the culprit of the "bad seals" in these units everyone has been having. Additionally, the outlet is very rough from the casting and needs to be smooth/polished up. This is something Procharger needs to check on their quality control. They just need to clean the casting edges up before they put the charger together. I will be cleaning it up myself now.

I'm not hating on Procharger, I just think they need to improve quality control, so units don't go out that will additional prepping from the user/installer.

Overall though, this product is very nice. All the sections come individually bagged: intercooler parts and clamps are all together, mounting bolts are with the the mounting plate, etc... This makes finding things very easy.

Here are some pictures I took of the items out of the box.

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metal shavings above

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Unpleasant surprises:

The “tuning from Evolution performance” is a get the car to your tuner tune only.

Removing Procharger pulley will “void the warranty,” which makes installation a *****. This was never mentioned or shown on Procharger’s website.

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Excessive casting flakes in the superchargers inlet, which had to be removed and smoothed out, otherwise they would have gone into my engine!

Fitment issues with intercooler mounts

Extremely loud cooling fan

Higher than normal idle which can be fixed with tuning.

Spark plugs had to be spaced, which is easy, but I figured a custom kit like this would be completely prepared and ready to install.

PROS

Extremely smooth and quiet supercharger while cruising and under WOT pulls.

Much more torque than expected even at lower RPM’s. Rips tires loose at any rpm in 1st and 2nd and chirps them in high rpm’s in third.

Cool intake temperatures while under WOT and moving.

Highway mileage is surprisingly better than stock

7psi pulley put out 9.5 PSI

http://youtu.be/jKKtxHVYXYc?t=40s

Cons:

Very loud while at idle because the fan immediately goes to max after about 10 seconds at idle despite low coolant temperatures. I think that maybe hot IAT must trigger the fan to help keep the intercooler cool. Idles at 1000 rpm but can be lowered by tuner.


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Hot IAT at idle. I’ve seen 130 degrees so far in 55 degree weather. This is mainly due to where Procharger’s air inlet is located. However once you get moving IAT cool right down to ambient.

Despite having 550 WHP, I’m pretty sure my stock 2006 z06 (sold it) with about 420 rwhp would destroy this mustang in a race, my goal was to have a DD vehicle that was as fast as my z06. I need to just find one and get them to do some pulls to see the outcome. I’ll get back to you when this happens.

In town mileage is not surprisingly much worse than stock, just can’t keep my foot out of it!


Installation Difficulties.

It’s paramount that you follow the instructions and don’t try to outthink them. I did this in two locations when mounting the supercharger.

1. Mount the supercharger to the mounting bracket before mounting the bracket to the block. You have to do this because the fitment for the supercharger is too tight between the valve covers and the mounting bracket. It would be possible if you could remove the pulley; however because you can’t remove the pulley, you have to painstakingly mount the supercharger to the bracket first. This makes getting the bracket lined up to mount very difficult and will require two people.

2. Put the rubber IC hose on the supercharger before you mount the supercharger and bracket to the vehicle. Otherwise you’re going to have to pull the bracket with the supercharger back off the car. The outlet on the supercharger is directly against the valve cover, if you don’t have the hose premounted, you will not be able to fit the hose onto the supercharger outlet.


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Make sure you understand and mount the Procharger crank pulley correct. It is very easy to mount the pulley wrong with its provided cam locks. The instructions are extremely vague on this most important detail. It mentions that the pulley should have “minimal play.” When in reality there is actually quite a bit of side-to-side play. I thought that it was too much play and somehow found a position where there was zero play. When I first cranked over the motor, I threw the belt. I knew immediately that the pulley was the problem. I rechecked it as saw that it was not flush against the stock crank pulley. I had to remove the IC piping and fan shroud in order to remount it correctly. The best advice I can give regarding this part is to make sure the pulley is parallel and flat against the factory crank pulley, and has about an 1/8 of a turn of play.



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As you can see in this next photo. The pulley is not flush and angles slightly up. I thought this was odd but thought "hey it doesn't have any play."


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The intercooler mounting brackets were to narrow for the mounting holes. I had to grind down the bracket so I could get the bolts in.


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You have to bend a coolant tube to make room for the bolt and spacer for the supercharger bracket. I can see this being a potential issue if it were to crack or break when bending it. The manual says “might require slight bending” when in reality YOU WILL have to bend it and much more than slightly.



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Here is the bracket and supercharger installed.


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I read a write up for the procharger and it said, you have to cut the OEM fan connectors to get them to hook up with the aftermarket fan. This is not so. You just have to remove the connector from the Procharger fan and slide the connectors into the OEM connector and then use electrical tape to get them to stay in place.


The connectors removed from Procharger connector
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The connectors in the OEM connector


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And tape and install!


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Front Fascia: “may require minor trimming” is a complete understatement. You have to cut the **** out of it. You have to cut the 30% of the fascia, 50% of the front air deflector, and 40% of the plastic undercarriage tray. If you want it to look great. Make sure you have all the right tools. I had a hacksaw and a really sharp butter knife. It will pass at 5 feet, but looks like **** close up. I am planning on getting a new aftermarket fascia, so I didn’t put a lot of effort in making it perfect.



(pictures to come)

With the 7 PSI pulley there is a bolt that is very difficult to tighten. If you could remove the pulley, then it would be not problem. I only was able to tighten the bolt finger tight and the use a screw driver to get it little bit more tight. Shame on Procharger for placing this bolt under the pulley, and then not allowing customers to remove the pulley.



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Here is an install that Muscle Mustang did of the HO system to complement some of the pictures I’ve taken.

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.c...gt_procharger_supercharger_install/index.html




Additional Pictures

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Massive IC


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2,000 dollars of plastic

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyKHoRoPDWA&context=C397f012ADOEgsToPDskJ8lPw-1kcueheCQ3umTWnu
a pull to 6,000 rpms
 
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blackgt87

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Nice review! I love seeing the honest opinions of someone who does the install themselves. Instead of "may require slight trimming" lol.

I am hoping to be doing a Kenne Bell here soon, and I know cutting that hole for the air intake is gonna SUCK.
 

MindIfISmoke?

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It will crush a c6 zo6... I smashed on one yesterday for the first time and I'm only making 500 whp. It was fun embarrassing him in front of his woman lol. Nice set up btw!

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hightechrdn

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Great write up! A few questions:
1. Did you let off the dyno pull before 7000rpm or does it really drop off at about 6800rpms like the dyno graph shows?
2. Any idea why the torque curve has the dips and unevenness in the mid range?
3. Overall, would you buy this supercharger kit again or go with something else if you had this information up front?

Thanks


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chuck@evoperform

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Great write up. Though you keep saying you will void the warranty on the supercharger if you remove the pulley. Where did you get this from? I have done many of these kits and have never seen or heard that anywhere.
 

JGrein05

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why didnt you do the D1 up grade?
Does your blow off valve hold pressure or can you see through it like this guys who had to get someone to weld his up to hold boost better?
 

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blackgt87

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why didnt you do the D1 up grade?
Does your blow off valve hold pressure or can you see through it like this guys who had to get someone to weld his up to hold boost better?

Actually a good question, sounds like its worth the 230 bucks to upgrade to the D1 to me.
 

KungFuHamster

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Great write up. Though you keep saying you will void the warranty on the supercharger if you remove the pulley. Where did you get this from? I have done many of these kits and have never seen or heard that anywhere.
i thought that was par for most blower companies...if you swap the stock pulley you void the blower's warranty. thats how it was on my old vortech back in the day.
 

8WOOD

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I had the Procharger tech, Fred from Evolution, and my local tuner, tell me that the D1SC would be way out of the efficiency range for 550 rwhp. It would build way more boost on the same pulley size;. therefore I'd have to have a larger pulley which in turn would build even less boost until I reached the high RPM's. I do somewhat wish, I'd bought the d1sc and left the 4.5 pulley on it, because it does build more boost with that pulley across the rpm range...but i'd have to upgrade my fuel pump, and despite everyone saying the coyote can handle 700+ wheel hp on the stock motor, I wanted to keep mine under 600 for longevity.

We didn't let off at 6800, the Dyno did that every time, we thought it was the belt slipping or advance track kicking on. I guess there is some glitch that presented itself in the software or hardware of they dyno. The shop said, another car just did the same thing. So i guess they need to calibrate it. So despite, it reading 200 rpm's low, it reacheded 7000 rpm at full boost at 551 rwhp. You can see it, in the video where I record boost and the rpm's side by side.

I asked the same question about the dips in the torque level, the response was that this was normal for 5.0's with the cam shaft phasing. This is a graph from blow by racing with a 4.38 pulley

The pulley has a little security knub over the bolt with a tamper free ring holding it on. If you remove this you warranty is void.

Also, the vehicle was tuned by Jon Lund via email/phone.

mmfp_1012_27_o+2011_ford_mustang_gt_procharger_supercharger_install+base_supercharger_dyno.jpg
 
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chuck@evoperform

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Can you do me a favor and take a good close up picture of the pulley assembly? I have never seen any type of security or tamper proofing on the pulleys before.
 

8WOOD

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I don't know, i'll have to look at the surge valve and tell you. It seems to hold boost fine. Hit almost 10 psi.
 

Unreal

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Nice write up, you shouldn't have any issues beating stock ZO6s

I disagree. Should be a close race but I would say it would be a driver's race. Put an intake/tune on the Z06 and the Z should be able to walk away from a 550rwhp Mustang GT.

Either way, nice setup. Badass car. I'm trying to decide on a twin screw or centri for my mustang. My z06 has a centri but it would be nice to have something different on the 5.0.
 

BV600

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Good thread, About to install my D1SC Stage 2 Kit in a couple weeks
 

blackgt87

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I told procharger I wanted 580-600 rwhp and they told me stage 2 d1sc kit.
 

8WOOD

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I told procharger I wanted 580-600 rwhp and they told me stage 2 d1sc kit.

Weird, must of been different guys. My car made 586 SAE corrected and 471 TQ on stock exhaust. I asked the shop what stock mustangs dyno and he said on he's seen as low as 350 and as high as 375. I think with an x pipe, a different fuel pump, and a 4.38 pulley the car would be way over 600 rwhp. But I don't want to push it. It would be interesting to see P1SC vs D1SC at the same boost level.

Anyone done that test?
 

Unreal

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P1 will make that power but if you want to turn it up later then go D1. p1 may have a bit better power curve but will max out sooner.

I wish I went with a T-trim on my z06 instead of the Si-trim. You'll always want more later.
 

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