Project Kama Kaase (Ka-zee)

Simon

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It should make 600 hp without breathing hard at that cubic inch mark. Hell...I can make 600 hp with a 466" engine, stock heads, and a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft.


It's for my dad. He wants something loud and obnoxious, near 600 hp and streetable with minimal heating issues and good drivability as he will drive it to work occasionally and to the strip. Is this asking too much?

Why the Dominator? I haven't look into the difference. I would rather buy larger than I need so I can grow into it if needed.
 

US-1

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Piece of cake. With aluminum heads, Meziere water pump and a 26x19 aluminum dual core radiator it should stay cool on the street. You could run a hydraulic roller and the car would be very tractable on the street while running strong as hell at the track.

I'd use either an out of the box set of FRPP Cobra Jets or the Kaase P-51 heads along with a Victor intake and a 1050 HP carburetor.
 

Simon

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Piece of cake. With aluminum heads, Meziere water pump and a 26x19 aluminum dual core radiator it should stay cool on the street. You could run a hydraulic roller and the car would be very tractable on the street while running strong as hell at the track.

I'd use either an out of the box set of FRPP Cobra Jets or the Kaase P-51 heads along with a Victor intake and a 1050 HP carburetor.

That is actually the exact combo we were talking about. We had narrowed it down those two heads.

We already have a set of heads that have the exhaust side ported with the intake marked out. They are the OEM iron heads. The heads are bare. No springs valves or rockers. So after we invest that money into the rest of the porting, plus the hardware, we thought a new assembled set of heads would be better. Not to mention the weight and better technology. We're just going to sell the OEM pieces.


We got the block, heads and valve covers for $150. Having block checked and hot tanked soon. Then choosing a rotating assembly, heads intake carb and cam.

All this will be backed by a built C4 or C6. In a Fox body, probably.
 

psfracer

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Got the bogarts on with the spacer removed. The front tire now tucks completely under the front fender, as it should. The strange front brakes allowed me to remove the entire spacer and still not have any clearance issues.

BEFORE

IMG_3261-1.jpg

IMG_3266-1.jpg


AFTER

BogartFrontoffsetchange.jpg

BogartWheeloffsetchange1.jpg
 

Chris06GT

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Those wheels look a lot better tucked in.....

Like Mark said, hurry up!!
 

psfracer

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Doing some research on the fuel system. Looking to probably go this direction:

1-carb.gif


4812.jpg


I really like how the by-pass is right off of the pump vs the regulator. This set up is good for 1600HP, plenty for me.
 

US-1

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That is actually the exact combo we were talking about. We had narrowed it down those two heads.

We already have a set of heads that have the exhaust side ported with the intake marked out. They are the OEM iron heads. The heads are bare. No springs valves or rockers. So after we invest that money into the rest of the porting, plus the hardware, we thought a new assembled set of heads would be better. Not to mention the weight and better technology. We're just going to sell the OEM pieces.


We got the block, heads and valve covers for $150. Having block checked and hot tanked soon. Then choosing a rotating assembly, heads intake carb and cam.

All this will be backed by a built C4 or C6. In a Fox body, probably.
I personally like the 4.140 stroke setups but they are hard to find. Usually have to offset grind the stock crank. We use the "2Y" crankshafts for that and it works out well. Pretty cheap too. We then use the 6.800" Eagle rods with an off the shelf SRP flat top piston. Excellent availability and very cost effective. Let me know if you need part numbers.

Transmission......personally, I wouldn't bother with the C4. I'd go C6 or Turbo 400.

Doing some research on the fuel system. Looking to probably go this direction:

1-carb.gif


4812.jpg


I really like how the by-pass is right off of the pump vs the regulator. This set up is good for 1600HP, plenty for me.
That is the exact setup we have on the Thunderbird, Paul. Damn nice stuff and it works like a dream. We use two #12 outlets from the tank to a Y block, then a #12 to the pump. From the pump to the regulator is a #10 line. From the regulator to the carb are a pair of #6 lines. We used a #8 for the return to the tank.
 

Simon

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I personally like the 4.140 stroke setups but they are hard to find. Usually have to offset grind the stock crank. We use the "2Y" crankshafts for that and it works out well. Pretty cheap too. We then use the 6.800" Eagle rods with an off the shelf SRP flat top piston. Excellent availability and very cost effective. Let me know if you need part numbers.

Transmission......personally, I wouldn't bother with the C4. I'd go C6 or Turbo 400.


.


I don't have the stroked memorized yet. Probably a complete assemnbly will be purchased from someone who makes an off the shelf kit.

We thought of the Turbo400 too because it likes the trans brakes.

I will be asking.
 

Ken3030

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I say blow through procharger and set it up for the street. Awesome.
 

psfracer

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Parts are starting to come in.........

First up is my 1220 cfm Pro Systems dominator. Yes!

Dominator1220cfm.jpg
 

RetroGT2006

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Holy crap, your car is going to be sick as hell!!! I am watching this thread, i can't wait to see more progress!
 

Simon

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This is definately one of the best threads I've seen in a while.
 

psfracer

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Ok, today i removed the evap system, the stock fuel lines, the stock gas tank, and the rearend.

The stock gas tank weighs in at 35lbs exactly--with no pumps and obviously no gas. The fuel cell ought to be a little bit of weight savings. The evap system is pretty significant also, I would say around 15 lbs or so, maybe more.




Rearendremoved.jpg

88rearend.jpg
 

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