Project Kama Kaase (Ka-zee)

[psfracer]

I know "something" will need to be turned off, because the wiring harness plugged in -- in two different places if I remember correctly. With those plugs disconnected I am sure your going to throw some codes.

Also, there is a vent on the passenger side of the tank which will need to be re-routed to somewhere else. I believe 05 Stroker routed it to near the gas cap. Check out his "going for 800rwhp" thread

 

[psfracer]

I never posted this, but this is what I found in my research before deciding on the build.

First, you will notice how similar in measurements the 4.6L SOHC is vs the 460! Same height, same width practically (within 1/2inch). But, the 460 is 4 inches longer. But this should not be a problem as I am running no accessories and an electric waterpump.

Now, what may look like really bad news is not. 715lbs for the 460 vs 435 lbs for the 4.6?!!! Yes. BUT---the aluminum block is 85 lbs---but I was running an iron block which is 155 lbs, a 70lb difference. THEN, I was running the whipple, which is 150lbs (shipping weight) but the manifold replaces the stock one, the plugs and fuel pump also replaces stock parts, so lets just call that 120lbs. THEN, I will no longer have the 7 gallon water tank, which is 60lbs (full). SO now you are looking at 435+70+120+60= 685lbs. So I am only looking at a 30lb weight penalty! How cool is that?!!!

 

[JeremyH]

Yeah i saw how he removed it all in his thread, im just wondering it can be turned off in the tune to prevent the codes. Tried searching a few other threads and havent found a def answer anywhere for the code thing.

 

[RyanS197]

Yeah i saw how he removed it all in his thread, im just wondering it can be turned off in the tune to prevent the codes. Tried searching a few other threads and havent found a def answer anywhere for the code thing.

I know for a fact it can be tuned out, just have your tuner turn it off.

 

[Freaknazty]

Side note I just reread the first post/page and I strongly suggest using the motor/mid plate from what I have been reading lately . It not only makes mounting the engine alot easier it allows you to mount the motor exactly where you want it ( and as far back as possible ) BUT the best reason to do it is it strengthens the block drastically . So far it's looking like one killer build man I can't wait to see the finished product . I will be building a SBF for the new ride probably a 427 though nothing badass like a big block lol .

 

[US-1]

BUT the best reason to do it is it strengthens the block drastically.

Do tell. This I've got to hear. And be sure you list your references so I'll know who to rag the shit out of.

 

[don_w]

Do tell. This I've got to hear. And be sure you list your references so I'll know who to rag the shit out of.

I think he read it at MustangForums...

 

[Freaknazty]

Do tell. This I've got to hear. And be sure you list your references so I'll know who to rag the shit out of.

Fuck you got me it was a few threads over on the bullet , supposedly they said it helps with " flex " in the cylinders especially with aluminum blocks .

 

[US-1]

Don't believe everything you read.

 

[don_w]

Don't believe everything you read.

Even at Mustangforums?????

 

[US-1]

Well.....gee....uuuuhhhh....I mean........you know.......like......uuuuhhhh

 

[Freaknazty]

Don't believe everything you read.

Yes I know that but hell you should know by now I don't know hardly shit when it comes to pushrods . Seemed like it made since to me lol . Ahh you live and learn .

 

[US-1]

Riddle me this, Batmullet..................

If you rigidly mount a structure in the front and rigidly mount that structure in the back then apply torque that will invariably be higher at the front mount than the rear mount then how the hell can the mounting structures keep the cylinders from distorting?

Only thing that keeps the cylinders from distorting is a thicker block. Or HardBlock.

 

[Matt D]

I Can't wait to see the shortend rear end... I plan on doing the same to my 8.8 eventually. Love the tucked look

 

[Freaknazty]

Riddle me this, Batmullet..................

Batmullet ? really ? lmao Hell I was going off the same concept as suspension/chassis the more mounting points you have the better the stiffness is . So one bolt per side compared to 5-10 on front and back seems like a no brainer to me .

 

[US-1]

Believe what you will.

 

[psfracer]

Thats a new term.............Batmullet? What is a Batmullet?

Anyway, yeah it looks like the motor and mid plate for alot of reasons. It will be much easier to set up, plus like you mentioned I can set the motor back a few inches, and I can also mount the regulator and vacum pump off of the plate instead of using brackets.

 

[psfracer]

Took out the spare tire well today:

Mocked up the 6061 aluminum brackets I had cut to size. This is what it will look like underneath, I just placed the fuel cell on top, but it actually will be on the other side--where all you will see in the trunk is just the sheet aluminum. The big bracket to the right of the fuel cell is where I am going to mount the Aeromotive A2000 pump and filter. The L brackets on each end will be bolted to the frame--as required by the NHRA rulebook.

The fuel cell is powdercoated black and has two outlets, a rollover checkball vent, and a return line. I am also using all grade 8 bolts, as last time I attached some ballast to the frame with grade 5 bolts-- the tech guys REALLY did not like that, at all.

Here it is mocked up without the aluminum sheet metal in place. Going to do that tomorrow. Once the aluminum sheet is in place, you won't be able to see any of the brackets unless your under the car. The arrows below show how I am going to bolt everything to the frame.

 

[ZmanM3]

Looks good Paul.

 

[GT RO]

looks good , very interesting build !