captainN8
Member
I bet it does a bit better than 900.
I'm with him
I bet it does a bit better than 900.
Well, I got the engine compartment ready for the engine, cleaned everything up, but I do have to rivet in some sheet metal to cover the holes on the firewall and stuff. I measured the engine and its 31 inches long from the back of the block to the edge of the electric water pump. Its 34 inches to the radiator, so I should just barely make it without having to move the radiator from its stock position.
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Also I removed the stock trans cooler and lines---I wonder how good the stock transmission cooler is? Its 4 X 23, so its pretty decent size, need to do some research.
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ENGINE UPDATE
The heads are on, just waiting on the ported intake manifold. The springs and retainers were also replaced with Titanium pieces. The "stock" P51 springs for the solid roller were 240lbs on the seat. The engine builder wanted to see a lot more seat pressure, and the spring I went with is 420lbs on the seat and almost 1,000 open. The main problem was, because of the cam I picked, the P51 springs where just .040 away from coil bind. So I went with a different spring also just for the added clearance, in addition to the motor being able to rev higher with the stronger springs.
In any case, as soon as the ported intake arrives, the engine should be on the dyno just a few days later. Its getting close.
Why is your firewall all beat to hell at the top?
Why is your firewall all beat to hell at the top?
I'm guessing, but to clear the whipple custom inlet he had in the car previously.
Paul - what oil pressure gauge set up are you using?
Autometer 4327---it uses a pressure sensor that converts actual oil pressure to electrical---so there is just one wire that comes off of the sending unit to the gauge. I may remote mount the sending unit--it has a 1/8" thread but it also comes with a 1/4 thread adaptor also.
I am deleting the ABS as well . I am thinking of using a 05 v6 setup .Yeah I was thinking about it. I really didn't want to run new lines the length of the car, but the more I stare at that ABS block the more I am thinking is has to go. Especially if I am going to add the porportion valve.
Im going to run all new braided lines on mine this winter.... get rid of it all.
That is what I was thinking about as well, but do we need a proportioning valve or just a line swap ? With my new engine bay there is no way in hell that big ugly ass abs block is going back in .Im going to run all new braided lines on mine this winter.... get rid of it all.