Project Kama Kaase (Ka-zee)

psfracer

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While watching the YellowBullet Nationals on live stream all weekend, I tackled a lot of the electrical. I am about half way done. Finished the exterior lights, the electric fan, electric fuel pump, and all wiring from the switch panel including to the starter and electric water pump---even though the motor is not in yet I know where they will be located.

But--still need to tackle the ignition and tach. I placed the battery box in exactly how I wanted it and ran the battery cable up to a fused junction box in the engine compartment that is 1 in 2 out. The 1 in is the battery cable, the two out is to the starter and one to the alternator. Then in the same junction box, two 60 amp fuses connect to another 2 out. From these 2 out I am running all of the accessories (ignition and fuel pump on one, electric water pump, electric fan, and lights on the other). Then in the switch panel itself are the individual fuses for item.

Probably overkill, but for the high amp items (electric fan, ignition, etc) I am using 10 gauge wire. For all of the small stuff (lights and such) I am using 14 gauge wire.

Just a couple of pics of the light. Will take some of the junction box and stuff when finished.

GaugePanelLights.jpg

Lights2.jpg

Lights.jpg
 

stkjock

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looking good Paul.... what are you using for oil pressure?
 
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Well, I got the engine compartment ready for the engine, cleaned everything up, but I do have to rivet in some sheet metal to cover the holes on the firewall and stuff. I measured the engine and its 31 inches long from the back of the block to the edge of the electric water pump. Its 34 inches to the radiator, so I should just barely make it without having to move the radiator from its stock position.

EngineCompartment.jpg


Also I removed the stock trans cooler and lines---I wonder how good the stock transmission cooler is? Its 4 X 23, so its pretty decent size, need to do some research.

Transcooler.jpg


ENGINE UPDATE

The heads are on, just waiting on the ported intake manifold. The springs and retainers were also replaced with Titanium pieces. The "stock" P51 springs for the solid roller were 240lbs on the seat. The engine builder wanted to see a lot more seat pressure, and the spring I went with is 420lbs on the seat and almost 1,000 open. The main problem was, because of the cam I picked, the P51 springs where just .040 away from coil bind. So I went with a different spring also just for the added clearance, in addition to the motor being able to rev higher with the stronger springs.

In any case, as soon as the ported intake arrives, the engine should be on the dyno just a few days later. Its getting close.

Why is your firewall all beat to hell at the top?
 

psfracer

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Why is your firewall all beat to hell at the top?

I'm guessing, but to clear the whipple custom inlet he had in the car previously.

Yeah that is a bummer --- but I am going to fab up some sheet metal to cover that area in addition to the holes in the firewall above the transmission. It will look good when finished.
 

stkjock

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Paul - what oil pressure gauge set up are you using?
 

psfracer

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Paul - what oil pressure gauge set up are you using?

Autometer 4327---it uses a pressure sensor that converts actual oil pressure to electrical---so there is just one wire that comes off of the sending unit to the gauge. I may remote mount the sending unit--it has a 1/8" thread but it also comes with a 1/4 thread adaptor also.
 

stkjock

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Autometer 4327---it uses a pressure sensor that converts actual oil pressure to electrical---so there is just one wire that comes off of the sending unit to the gauge. I may remote mount the sending unit--it has a 1/8" thread but it also comes with a 1/4 thread adaptor also.

Thanks Paul
 

psfracer

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Yeah I was thinking about it. I really didn't want to run new lines the length of the car, but the more I stare at that ABS block the more I am thinking is has to go. Especially if I am going to add the porportion valve.
 

05stroker

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Yeah I was thinking about it. I really didn't want to run new lines the length of the car, but the more I stare at that ABS block the more I am thinking is has to go. Especially if I am going to add the porportion valve.
I am deleting the ABS as well . I am thinking of using a 05 v6 setup .

What info do you guys have on the ABS delete ?
 

05stroker

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Im going to run all new braided lines on mine this winter.... get rid of it all.
That is what I was thinking about as well, but do we need a proportioning valve or just a line swap ? With my new engine bay there is no way in hell that big ugly ass abs block is going back in .
 

psfracer

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SO, still waiting on the ported intake. I took the gaskets down today to the shop to make sure they fit to the head properly and they fit perfect. Since the intake is being matched to the gasket--the intake ports on the manifold will be a nice fit to the heads. It will be quite an improvement for sure.

Meanwhile I snapped some pictures of the carb redone, the new springs with titanium retainers, and the long block with the heads on, long with the vacuum pump set up, etc.

As soon as the ported intake arrives, this thing could be on the dyno just 2 days later.


Carbrefinished4.jpg


CarbRefinished.jpg


TitaniumSpringsRetainers.jpg


Longblock1jpg.jpg
 

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