Project Kama Kaase (Ka-zee)

[05mustang_TT_charged]

Do you think you will pick up some hp and tq with the stepped header versus the ones you used to dyno it?

Everything looks awesome and you have inspired me to look into this route when I get done testing the turbo out. I will be looking into building one of these in the near future.

 

[09 Ricky]

Do you think you will pick up some hp and tq with the stepped header versus the ones you used to dyno it?

Everything looks awesome and you have inspired me to look into this route when I get done testing the turbo out. I will be looking into building one of these in the near future.

On our big block we picked up 28 horsepower by just changing th e collector style at the end of the header. With these big blocks anything can happen lol! Im really looking foward to seeing vids of this thing making passes

 

[psfracer]

Yes, I should pick up some decent power vs the headers used on the dyno for two reasons:

1) the new headers are a step header design and 2) the headers used on the dyno were mis-matched by a significant amount (you can see how the ports lined up on the old exhaust gaskets)--so just by lining up to the port properly I am hoping will pick up some power.

 

[psfracer]

KB Charged: While the motor mounts / trans mount / and headers are custom pieces, the engine/trans combo is pretty straight forward. 460s have been built forever, so there is no guessing when it comes to what power you want, and what you need for the 460 based motor. So what I am trying to say is, its really not that bad. I think it took me a while because I re-did the entire car from front to back.

 

[05stroker]

KB Charged: I think it took me a while because I re-did the entire car from front to back.

YEP ! I know the feeling . At times it is almost overwhelming.

 

[05mustang_TT_charged]

Great info Paul. We are rebuilding the whole car from front to back right now and it's been a year already. I am seriously considering to start piecing parts together as soon as mine is up and running to do a swap like this. I love the way yours came out and how simplistic it is.

 

[psfracer]

Ok, so I think the engine compartment is finally done. I covered up the big holes in the firewall left behind by my removing the heater core. I also fabbed up another metal trim piece to hide the hammer dents/carnage that someone previous to me did to the firewall---it looks definitely alot better, but I might come up with something else in the future.

The car started up a few times, but the starter really struggled, the 12V battery that I have has died a couple times in the past, I think while it is fully charged, once I turn on the ignition, fuel pumps, water pump, then fan, you can hear it load the battery. I was planning on a 16V battery anyway, but I was hoping this battery would be strong enough to run everything while I take a couple minute video.

In any case, driveshaft, rear springs, throttle cable, and 16 V battery will be here next week.

In the meantime here are the finished engine pictures----notice the firewall vs how it looks in early pictures I posted a couple thread pages back. I took some better pictures of the headers after I sanded them.

 

[joedls]

Outstanding!!!!

 

[one eyed willy]

paul, where did you get your header makin materials?

 

[stkjock]

Amazing how open the engine bay looks with all the stock accessories out!

Looks good Paul!

 

[mikeysgt]

Car looks badass Paul. Great work! Can't wait to see it run down the track at famoso this year

 

[FlyByNight]

amazing....

 

[06vistabluegt]

I'm still curious as to what you did for the window auto-up function? It appears there are none of the stock electronics still in the car.

 

[psfracer]

paul, where did you get your header makin materials?

I got the collectors through summit, the flanges from Kaase, and you can get the tube kit with straight, 45, 90, and 180 degree bends from just about anywhere.

I'm still curious as to what you did for the window auto-up function? It appears there are none of the stock electronics still in the car.

Ok, so here is the deal---I have mirror deletes, so I am not sure if the window location would be the same vs a car that has mirrors, but I moved the window up until it was even with the mirror before unplugging everything. The door closes just barely without interference from the trim piece that runs along the top. I can take pictures of the window position if you want--but I do not have power window function anymore as you noted because none of the factory wiring is still in the car. The doors close no problem, and I do not see any gap between the window and trim when closed. I will take some pictures to show you.

 

[06vistabluegt]

I got the collectors through summit, the flanges from Kaase, and you can get the tube kit with straight, 45, 90, and 180 degree bends from just about anywhere.



Ok, so here is the deal---I have mirror deletes, so I am not sure if the window location would be the same vs a car that has mirrors, but I moved the window up until it was even with the mirror before unplugging everything. The door closes just barely without interference from the trim piece that runs along the top. I can take pictures of the window position if you want--but I do not have power window function anymore as you noted because none of the factory wiring is still in the car. The doors close no problem, and I do not see any gap between the window and trim when closed. I will take some pictures to show you.

That explains it perfectly and makes sense. I'm still deciding if I want to go pushrod or just SC what I have, the only stumbling block I came across with going pushrod was the windows. I want to still be able to put the windows up and down so I'd probably have to keep the majority of the stock wiring in, I wasn't sure if you hid the computer or you just found a way around it. Thanks for the response. I absolutely love what you're doing.

 

[rodfarva]

That looks awesome. Thanks for the updated pics!!!

 

[psfracer]

Slowly making progress. I had about a month delay because I injured my knee--which prevented me from working on the car much.

Well anyway made some progress today, put in the driveshaft I got from Strange Engineering, 3.5 moly, 1350 ends, bullet proof. I then set the pinon angle, but not before first going to Sears to by a craftsman 1 1/2 inch wrench. I also set up the throttle cable and set up a Lokar billet pedal assembly and mounted it to the stock pedal mount. The stock pedal assembly is two pieces, the pedal itself and the plate that mounts to the firewall. I simply took the pedal off and mounted the new Lokar pedal assembly to it. I did have to space it out from the firewall a little, but it worked out good.

Here are some pics:

I also replaced my old B&M shifter a completely re-did how the shifter was mounted in the car. I then made a cover plate. I think I might re-make one with it closed off on the fourth side vs open like I have it now. The Hurst shifter I went with I like a lot more, especially with the trans brake button on the shifter. The picture below is just a mach-up, the screws are not tightened down and the interior is all apart.

Here is what I had before shifter wise:

 

[Surfstang2020]

big improvement on the shifter man, thats gonna be a badass stang

 

[stkjock]

Looks good Paul!

 

[ZmanM3]

Wow!