Project Kama Kaase (Ka-zee)

[GI Joe]

Yeah, I haven't even considered the TH350. Not much of a weight advantage so might as well go 400, right?

do you loose the e brake with the strange brakes?

 

[psfracer]

Yes, no E-Brake with the strange rear brakes.

 

[05mustang_TT_charged]

I will post some up next weekend. The main factor is what wheel we are talking about. There is another thread on here where a member fit a 18X11 wheel---as the wheel is large enough in diameter to where the shock and bumper stop purch is not an issue. But for a 15 inch wheel with a slick, definitely an issue.

So if you are looking for ideas on clearance for a 15 inch wheel, I can help.

I am worried about a 15" wheel. Also where are my pics??? When you plan on getting the headers done?

I am looking at getting a 15x12 Bogart and would like the extra room. I am already talking with guy that is doing the cage to move the shocks in bound when he builds the cage and might go with an in bound coil over kit.

 

[GI Joe]

I am worried about a 15" wheel. Also where are my pics??? When you plan on getting the headers done?

I am looking at getting a 15x12 Bogart and would like the extra room. I am already talking with guy that is doing the cage to move the shocks in bound when he builds the cage and might go with an in bound coil over kit.

I dont beleive it will work but I could be wrong. Based on my experience a 11.5" with an 8.5" B/S is goona be about it....unless you want the outside to stick out 1/2"
I run a 10.5" wheel with a 7.5" BS...Bogart...and I have owned 5 sets of different sizes.3" on the front is about all you want out front 1.5" center and 1.5" lip. A true 10.5" wheel and I have 1 3/4" on each side from the frame...so the shock ( set aside) is not the issue. The frame rail is. Add 1" for a 11.5" wheel and there is right at 5/8" left there. Bogart wheels are only all only available in 1/2" front and rear halves. So to add that other 1/2" on the inside puts the tire 1/8 to 1/4" from the frame assuming you have moved the shock out of the way. You need to allow 3/8" for flex. These numbers are with a 295 DR 28" tall and a 28X10.5" slick which has a 10" tread. You can fit an 11" slick. You can fit an 11" wheel without moving the shock too if you remove the snubber plate off the frame rail...Even if you narrow the rear you still end up with the same constraint...the frame...you just get more lip. These things i know.. ):^{

 

[psfracer]

That and the LCA---even with some offset bushings, it looks as though you can only go so far in without changing the LCA mounting point.

I went inboard with the shocks as I wanted to run double adjustable Strange drag shocks and coil overs. Coil overs in the stock shock location effects wheel / tire clearance.

In any case, the motor mounts and trans mounts are done, the headers are being done right now, here is a picture of the drivers side:

 

[Boozshey]

You can fit an 11" slick.

I run a 28x12.5" MT ET Street.

 

[GI Joe]

That and the LCA---even with some offset bushings, it looks as though you can only go so far in without changing the LCA mounting point.

I went inboard with the shocks as I wanted to run double adjustable Strange drag shocks and coil overs. Coil overs in the stock shock location effects wheel / tire clearance.

In any case, the motor mounts and trans mounts are done, the headers are being done right now, here is a picture of the drivers side:

very very nice man

 

[stkjock]

Looking good Paul


tight fight by the steering shaft?

 

[psfracer]

Ok, lots to update---one more weekend and I should be able to fire this thing up!

Headers are done, complete ABS delete with new brake lines routed, with the proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Motor mounts done, and they are beefy! Final trans mount done, and I had two driveshaft loops put in. The front was obvious, but I had a rear one put in as well---I had a driveshaft let go once on the rear and it took out both mufflers and punched a hole through the tunnel under the rear seat---so better safe then sorry.

Whats left to do (which I will do in a couple weekends)

1) mount and wire in the 7AL3
2) install driveshaft
3) finish fuel system
4) install 16V battery
5) wire in all gauges
6) install new shifter--wire in transbrake
7) install engine diaper
8) finish throttle cable / accelerator pedal setup / finish up sheetmetal on firewall to cover holes left by removing the heater core

At some point, add two feet of pipe off of the 4 1/2 inch collectors and put on mufflers---but that is later. It will be ran for a bit with open headers. The neighbors have been informed!

Thats it!!

Here are some pictures:

 

[06whipple]

Brake line tubing looks nice !!!

 

[Boozshey]

I really need to learn how to bend tubing and flare it correctly... Looking great man!!!

 

[Department Of Boost]

Wow! I wish my engine bay was even in the same galaxy as that when it comes to being "clean"!

I miss the carb days sometimes.

 

[stkjock]

nice Paul!

Painters tape a the headers? just for mock up I assume?

 

[Department Of Boost]

nice Paul!

Painters tape a the headers? just for mock up I assume?

That's 1000hp painters tape.

 

[psfracer]

nice Paul!

Painters tape a the headers? just for mock up I assume?

Yeah, that tape was over all the exhaust ports while the headers were being fabricated. I am going to remove when I take the headers back out this weekend to paint. The tubes are individual once you take the collectors off, which makes installation and removal so much easier.

 

[stkjock]

Yeah, that tape was over all the exhaust ports while the headers were being fabricated. I am going to remove when I take the headers back out this weekend to paint. The tubes are individual once you take the collectors off, which makes installation and removal so much easier.

Cool!

 

[05stroker]

You bend those brake lines yourself ? Looks nice !

 

[psfracer]

Fuel system finished, #10 line from the Aeromotive A2000 pump to the regulator, then #8 line to the carb. 20 psi to the regulator, then 7.5 psi to the carb.

Also mounted the sending units for the oil pressure, water temp, and trans temp. Mounted the fuse box to the firewall, and took some scotch brite to the header tubes, came out pretty nice. Mounted the 7AL3 ignition box in the interior, will start all of the wiring next weekend.

Notice the ABS block and all of the brake lines missing? Brake lines / line lock is in the fenderwell, and to get to the other side the passenger front brake line was routed along the K-member.

 

[vinnybarber]

Looks good Paul ! Can't wait to see it run

 

[stkjock]

Looking great Paul