Rear end " refreshing "

[brasil]

Well today I started the project " rear end / stop the whine.." on my 2010 GT..
ordered all the bearings ( Timken ) and seals.. and of course a bunch of tools.

After I removed driveshaft, drive axles.. panhard rod and the sway bar.. I used my "torque meter " a special one who has a watch like indicator. Calibrated from 0 - 12 Nm the preload reading ( with the carrier still installed !! ) was ... 0.8 Nm or 7.9 lbs in . or in other words.. more or less no preload.
Then I checked the backlash .. 0.0014 / 15 of an inch.. also a little bigger than the specs ( 0.0008 -0.0012 )

I made the mesurements, because I wanted to know how far the old ( and trouble making ) set up is off from the specs..

Tomorrow I will check the preload again, after the removal of the carrier. I bet there is no preload anymore. I think the one (or both ) of the pinion bearings is gone..

 

[brasil]

..the white points on the carrier brackets are "on top " of some punch hits.. 2 on the DS and 3 on the PS...

 

[brasil]

... so today I cleaned up the whole rear end. removed the carrier..the pinion.. the bearings..

tomorrow I will start to change the bearings..

what I found, was that the races from the pinion bearings look a little " abused " pics 2, 3, and 4

ring and pinion gears are looking good.. so far

 

[brasil]

... the pinion head bearing... made some trouble. even with a huge bearing puller ( pics are on the way..) it was impossible for me to seperate the bearing from the pinion. So I had to use the good old Dremel, to cut the inner bearing. Took more than an hour to call the job "done ". Unfortunately I made a little tiny cut into the surface where the head bearing sits on the pinion.. But I think the small scratch will not affect the purpose /use of the pinion.

When all the bearings were removed form the pinion, I found two different manufacturers ..Head bearing : KOYO. and the smaller bearing towards the driveshaft flange : Timken..

Perhaps the flange bearing was serviced in the past ? But I don´t believe this, becaus if you want to change the flange bearing ..all other parts . Pinion , carrier aso. need to be removed.

BTW. the failed bearing , was the KOYO one.. lot of pitting..

The "pinion deep shim " was a 0.029 ... so because I am only to changing all 6 bearings, I will use the 0.029 shim and go from there.. Keeping my fingers crossed, that the pattern will look good , later on.

 

[brasil]

pic from the old bearings

 

[brasil]

the new bearings I am going to use are all Timken..but I found out that some parts of them came from India.. not sooooo funny.

 

[JC SSP]

Pinion bearings are pressed on and off. The right way is with a hydraulic press.

 

[brasil]

Pinion bearings are pressed on and off. The right way is with a hydraulic press.

..I know. but the bearing puller was not able to pull the bearing. Alle other bearings came off smooth, and were pressed on under the hydraulic press. The races form the pinion bearings also went in smooth. NO gap at all...

Preload of the pinion gear is 22-23 lb inch... ( used a crush sleeve eliminator kit form Yukon )

Tomorrow I will install the carrier.. if the backlash and the paatern looks good, I will install the final pinion bearings . Made two "set-up bearings" using the same brand -bought 2 of each of them-

Finally I will check all the stuff for ( hopefully ) the last time before putting all together ... oil, FM, Axle shafts...aso..

 

[GriffX]

Pinion bearings are pressed on and off. The right way is with a hydraulic press.

I used a separator (?) and a press, but had to grind a bit off

 

[bpr210]

I recently picked up this style of bearing puller.
It doesn't hurt the bearings as bad an if your careful you may be able to reuse them
check the collar sizes though. I think the 8.8 had bigger carrier bearing than my 9 inch.
VEVOR Carrier & Pinion Bearing Puller-

 

[brasil]

… question : I use a solid spacer . Preload is around 21 lb inch now .
Next is using a new pinion nut … do I need extra loctite or some sealant ? Looks like the nut already has some loctite or so . Is a nut from Motive gear

 

[brasil]

I recently picked up this style of bearing puller.
It doesn't hurt the bearings as bad an if your careful you may be able to reuse them
check the collar sizes though. I think the 8.8 had bigger carrier bearing than my 9 inch.
VEVOR Carrier & Pinion Bearing Puller-

View attachment 110178

Real nice bearing tool

 

[whitmanink]

… question : I use a solid spacer . Preload is around 21 lb inch now .
Next is using a new pinion nut … do I need extra loctite or some sealant ? Looks like the nut already has some loctite or so . Is a nut from Motive gear

no need to use anymore loc tight ,, the purple stuff in the nut is just that,,
now if you were to instal this new nut , and have to remove it for some reason , then yes , some blue loc tight will be just fine ,.

(i actually just did this about 3 weeks ago when my pinion seal was leaking ,, )

 

[brasil]

Installed the pinion and the carrier today ( pics will come tomorrow )

 

[brasil]

.. preload with all new bearings is 2.4 Nm / 22 lb-in
Backlash 0.0011

So I hope that all will work the way it should be

 

[brasil]

.. forgot to say - the nut I used has orange stuff . But I think it the same .. just another color .

 

[whitmanink]

now lets see some pics of that ,mesh!
great job , and enjoy the process (when things actually go right lol)

 

[brasil]

..here we go

some more pics...


after I instaled the diff cover, I decided to change the UCA bushing , because I already removed the exhaust and the drivesfat - it was a good chance to get real close to the .grr..damn.."&!$(**. bushing... even with a real good puller , it took nearly one hour to remove the old cracked bushing.

bought a energy suspension PU bushing kit... and will use the bigger bushing that sits in the middle of the UCA. So I have a " soft " bushing above the diff... and a stiffer one to " stabilize " the whole assy.

 

[whitmanink]

i opted for the bmr bushing, where i only had to clean out the metal shell and use the original shell for the new red bushing,, and obviously its greaseable ..

the pattern looks great!

i also buy rtv in calk tube form,, soooo much easier to apply..

for the rear cover,
i took two old studs,, cut them down, and put them in the top 2 holes to help line up everything and that way it seats right the first time,..
then once io got a few bolts started , ill remove the two studs and put bolts there

 

[brasil]

...some more parts went back to their original location...
all nuts from the suspension were torqued under "load " ..what a pain in the ... used jack stands under the rear axle ..and ramps under the front wheels.
added some more weight in the trunk get the correct level.

then I Installed the Drive shaft... as you can see , I used a 12x1.5 Screw to "block the transmission from turning while torquing the screws ( 77 /41 lb ft ). Works much better than a "absend " wife..

Tomorrow the front brakes and the exhaust are on the schedule ...