Rear lowering springs install question

[Phil1098]

I'm finally going to get rid of a bit of the 4X4 look, but just a bit. I have some Roush rear springs coming soon for only about a one inch drop (just want the car a bit closer to level). MY question is this, once installed and at it's new height, should I loosen the LCA bolts, UCA bolts etc. and retorque them after the bushings have moved to their new happy place? There's a Maximum Motorsport Youtube video that shows this and all others never mention it (not that I have found anyway). To me, it makes sense to do it, just want to do it right. BTW, I already have an adjustable panhard bar to center the axle.

 

[Macman45]

I never did any of that. I did install an adjustable Panhard to account for the new angle, and that needed re-torquing after 500 miles or so.

 

[pass1over]

Never did any of that on any of the cars that i've lowered. Just make sure everything is torqued down and recheck after about 500 miles.

 

[oldVOR]

Yes, when you install the springs, loosen the LCA and UCA mounting bolts to allow the bushings to index to their new location. Otherwise, you're adding preload to the bushings by forcing them to their new location and not relieving that tension.

 

[GriffX]

That makes sense for me. How to do that in a driveway? Is it ok to drive it on ramps?

 

[oldVOR]

Either drive-on ramps or jack stands under the axle. You'll want the suspension loaded and as level as you can get it. Give it a few good bounces to settle it onto the springs and then torque away.

 

[Juice]

I'm finally going to get rid of a bit of the 4X4 look, but just a bit. I have some Roush rear springs coming soon for only about a one inch drop (just want the car a bit closer to level). MY question is this, once installed and at it's new height, should I loosen the LCA bolts, UCA bolts etc. and retorque them after the bushings have moved to their new happy place? There's a Maximum Motorsport Youtube video that shows this and all others never mention it (not that I have found anyway). To me, it makes sense to do it, just want to do it right. BTW, I already have an adjustable panhard bar to center the axle.

Yes, I would loosen and retorque control arm bolts IF you have STOCK control arms. If you have spherical bearings and/or greasable poly bushings, you don't have to loosen/retorque the arms.

 

[Gabe]

It's a good idea to not fully tighten until it's loaded. Otherwise you're tightening the poly or rubber bushings into a position where they'll constantly be twisting from.
Stick some jacks under the rear axle, good enough.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Yes, I would loosen and retorque control arm bolts IF you have STOCK control arms. If you have spherical bearings and/or greasable poly bushings, you don't have to loosen/retorque the arms.

This ↑↑↑

OE control arm bushings accommodate suspension movement by distorting, and you want to minimize how much distortion normally happens by indexing the bushings to the suspension being static ride height. Sphericals and any other bushing that accommodates suspension movement by internal sliding will index themselves (and constantly do this in normal driving as the suspension moves).


Norm

 

[Phil1098]

I just read this about my Whiteline LCA

"our Giiro bushings, engineered specific for this application. Our Grease Free, non-bonded bushing design allows the crush tubes to free float, eliminating bushing wind and snap back, increasing handling predictability, and eliminating maintenance and NVH."

So I won't be doing those.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I just read this about my Whiteline LCA

"our Giiro bushings, engineered specific for this application. Our Grease Free, non-bonded bushing design allows the crush tubes to free float, eliminating bushing wind and snap back, increasing handling predictability, and eliminating maintenance and NVH."

So I won't be doing those.

If they mean "free float inside the bushing material", that's what you want. Free-floating between the bracket sides with the bushing taking all of the clamp load is exactly what you DON'T want.


Norm

 

[Phil1098]

Either way, I'm under the car right now, five minutes to loosen and tighten a few bolts is no matter. Came in to get some torque specs.

 

[Gabe]

129 ft-lbs or 9 ugga-duggas, whichever comes first

 

[Pentalab]

I just read this about my Whiteline LCA

"our Giiro bushings, engineered specific for this application. Our Grease Free, non-bonded bushing design allows the crush tubes to free float, eliminating bushing wind and snap back, increasing handling predictability, and eliminating maintenance and NVH."

So I won't be doing those.

Did you also install Whiteline UCA + mating UCA mount ... or any other brand of UCA ..or are both items oem ?
Did you install the Whiteline LCA re-locate brackets. (identical to the BMR version, except the Whiteline is fixed at a 3" drop at axle end... which is the same as using the middle hole on the BMR. BMR unit has 3 x holes, for a 2-3-4" drop.
I used the same roush rear springs + mating roush rear mono tube shocks. Bad wheel hop. So in went the BMR LCA re-locate brackets on the top ( 2" drop) holes. 1 yr later, moved em down one hole, to the middle.. which is a 3" drop. LCA's are lower at axle end with any of the holes. I also installed the BMR UCA + mating BMR UCA mount. No more wheel hop, no more traction problems.

 

[Phil1098]

My UCA and mount are stock and I did not put on any brackets. Haven't had a chance to drive the car yet. I'll see if I have fucked it up and need to add more parts to change the rear end geometry.