Reclocking my alternator

[Cali HP Addict]

Haha. You shouldn't need to extend the wires at all if you clock the alternator. I take it you got that baby home.

 

[scramblr]

You mean you don't want this to happen to you?

Damn dude...WTF? Was that the Saleen extension?

 

[scramblr]

Haha. You shouldn't need to extend the wires at all if you clock the alternator. I take it you got that baby home.

Hey Man, I haven't bugged you 'cause I know you've been doing your build. Yeah, I got that puppy home...long story too, almost didn't make it (twice), but we'll cover that later.

So I'm going to clock the alternator and you're saying that I'll have enough cable to pretty much run it how it is stock? That's what Tom did (see his pic in post #8 above) and the cable is cutting across the bay. I know, I'm anal, but I don't want it coming across like that.

And while i have you here, when you get a chance, if you could email me the updated 8 Rib kit instructions I'd appreciate it...'cause I'm getting close to ....

 

[cekim]

You mean you don't want this to happen to you?

Was there shrink tube on that thing or just black tape? I assume it was rubbing on something and worked its way through whatever you had on there?

No matter what you do - make sure it isn't rubbing - its just a matter of time if you have it bouncing against a sharp corner of aluminum...

 

[sevenleaf]

Everything was correct yes there was shrink over the ends it melted right through, the Saleen Inlet tube was pushing against the top of the alternerator wire. I didn't think anything of it at the time since everything looked solid. Guess I should of. Combination of the JDM lowering mounts and the saleen inlet tube with an alternator wire that pointed up.


I took a dremel and cut out the red tab on the alternator now my wire points down with no problems and no touching. Plus I switched to the Steeda Carbon fiber inlet tube.

edit; the whole wire was covered with a plastic cover too.

 

[cekim]

I took a dremel and cut out the red tab on the alternator now my wire points down with no problems and no touching. Plus I switched to the Steeda Carbon fiber inlet tube.

Same here, just took a razor knife to it - didn't occur to me to screw with the alternator case until I read about people doing it since the razor knife fix was so easy...

 

[tom281]

I can't see how turning the alternator even a full 180 would give you the additional ~10" of wire length needed. Sure turning it would get the terminal bolt facing a different direction, but I don't think it would give you enough length.

LOL that's what I'm all about........ length. hahahaha

When the temp here gets into double digits outside, I plan to replace the whole wire.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

So what one-peice wire would be a good replacement?

 

[scramblr]

Holy cow, old thread...search works. I made my own with a bit heavier gauge cable. Crimped the terminals and ran it out of the way to where you can't even see it.

 

[Pumpkinfish]

I just installed a used Saleen blower on my buddies car. The seller didn't give us the extension cable we needed. He called Saleen and they sent him a new longer cable that replaces the Ford part. Just unscrew the existing cable from the battery connection, remove cable, then install the new Saleen piece. I think he said it was $40. It looks OEM Ford and even had all the plastic "trees" taped to the convoluted plastic. I was actually impressed and was expecting the crimp kit.

 

[scramblr]

I just didn't like how the battery cable ran across the top of the motor. With the longer cable you can run it out of the way.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Would someone post up a pic of the positive battery terminal connector that shows a close-up of the alternator cable connected?

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

Would someone post up a pic of the positive battery terminal connector that shows a close-up of the alternator cable connected?

I will shoot a picture of mine when I get home and post it. Now it won't be as many look because I have the Saleen SC on mine, but I will take a picture of it for ya!

Mike

 

[Boozshey]

Would someone post up a pic of the positive battery terminal connector that shows a close-up of the alternator cable connected?

Can I ask what importance this is to you?

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Can I ask what importance this is to you?

Sure. I'm doing a V6 to V8 swap, and have a '07 battery/starter cable harness. It has the little screw lug on the battery connector, that looks like where the separate alternator cable could connect to. The cable on the V6 is different, in that the alternator wire is integrated into the battery/starter harness. So, I'd like to see what it is supposed to look like on a GT. That'll mean I'll need to get the cable from the battery to alternator.

 

[Boozshey]

I see, it was just such a random request I was curious... haha

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Indeed.

So, any help?????

 

[scramblr]

Yeah, super old thread. So my PA Alternator took a dump and I happen to have a stock alternator on hand. I previously clocked the PA alternator without any issues, however, when I just tried to clock (CCW) the stock one, the cables inside connected to a circuit board (or whatever it is) pulled off the board and ruined it. I have not heard of this happening before.

I ordering a new alternator and will need to clock it as well and sure don't want this happening again. Is there a difference between the stock and aftermarket alternators when it comes to clocking them?

 

[scramblr]

Here's a pick of what happened.

 

[tmcolegr]

· Remove pulley. Remove the 3 machine screws holding alternator housings together. CAREFULLY tap on front housing (pulley end) to loosen it from center section of alternator. Do NOT allow center section to loosen from rear frame. Rotate front frame of alternator counter clockwise (when viewed from the front/pulley end) 120 degrees. Reassemble in reverse order.