reprog gt 2013 need help

[pass1over]

Both lund and AED told me if I want a rock solid idle like stock then I would need to stick with the stock intake tube and air filter. Apparently the larger after market cold air intake causes a more vague signal at the mass which makes it more difficult for the engine to settle down to a steady idle without first doing a dip in RPMs first (not all the time but sometimes). This is why most tuners will turn the idle rpm up some when running a cold air intake, to try combat this issue. But even with the higher idle it will still do it.

My car does this. It has a slight dip in idle when I push the clutch in and am coming to a stop. But not all the time. I've smoke tested it 3 or 4 times, re-sealed everything I can think of, replaced pcv valves, etc. Nothing fixes it.

 

[Juice]

Throttle body data, and expected throttle angle at idle is where the fix is for the idle issues. Torque based decel settings also come into play.

Those who paid for a tune and have this issue, newsflash: your tune is incomplete. Yes, I had this issue in the tune I paid for. I bought PRP, learned the fly by wire and mapped point tuning and fixed my issue myself.

 

[UpAllNight91]

Throttle body data, and expected throttle angle at idle is where the fix is for the idle issues. Torque based decel settings also come into play.

Those who paid for a tune and have this issue, newsflash: your tune is incomplete. Yes, I had this issue in the tune I paid for. I bought PRP, learned the fly by wire and mapped point tuning and fixed my issue myself.

I wont argue that. I do know there are things that can be done in the tune to correct or work around the issue. Problem is every aftermarket intake and car is different and these tuners are not going to take the time to sort out every car and intake system for the 300 to 400 we pay for a "custom tune". Trust me I have went around and around with these guys on this issue and other issues. VMP, AED, and Lund (been tuned by all 3). All they want to do is send you their generic base file and then sort out the mass curve to get the fuel trims right then call it done. To work around the idle being different on every car with a cold air they just turn the idle up a little. And if you complain about the dip in the idle before settling into the normal idle they will blame the cold air and tell you put the stock one back on if you want it to idle perfect. I don't agree with it but that's how they all are doing it to save time. I'm only posting this stuff so the OP doesn't go in circles looking for vacuum leaks and stuff when its actually probably mechanically just fine. When you press these tuners to keep working on it to get it right, after about 6 to 8 revisions they will ghost you. Its sad but that's how its going. I will say AED was the best overall and he didnt ghost me lol.

 

[Juice]

If you can adjust idle speed with handheld, try setting drive idle 150 higher than neutral. May work, may not.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Make sure the bottom of the intake tube is actually on the throttlebody. Im betting its not. PMAS is known to be a pain to get seated.

 

[Megamach1975]

Throttle body data, and expected throttle angle at idle is where the fix is for the idle issues. Torque based decel settings also come into play.

Those who paid for a tune and have this issue, newsflash: your tune is incomplete. Yes, I had this issue in the tune I paid for. I bought PRP, learned the fly by wire and mapped point tuning and fixed my issue myself.

COOL CAN YOU GIVE ME THE MANIPULATION???

 

[Megamach1975]

I wont argue that. I do know there are things that can be done in the tune to correct or work around the issue. Problem is every aftermarket intake and car is different and these tuners are not going to take the time to sort out every car and intake system for the 300 to 400 we pay for a "custom tune". Trust me I have went around and around with these guys on this issue and other issues. VMP, AED, and Lund (been tuned by all 3). All they want to do is send you their generic base file and then sort out the mass curve to get the fuel trims right then call it done. To work around the idle being different on every car with a cold air they just turn the idle up a little. And if you complain about the dip in the idle before settling into the normal idle they will blame the cold air and tell you put the stock one back on if you want it to idle perfect. I don't agree with it but that's how they all are doing it to save time. I'm only posting this stuff so the OP doesn't go in circles looking for vacuum leaks and stuff when its actually probably mechanically just fine. When you press these tuners to keep working on it to get it right, after about 6 to 8 revisions they will ghost you. Its sad but that's how its going. I will say AED was the best overall and he didnt ghost me lol.

OK THANKS FOR YOUR POST, THIS OSCILLATING IDLE IS NOT A BORE AS LONG AS THE MECHANICS ARE WELL, IF EVER AS A PREPARER YOU FIND THE SOLUTION, THANK YOU

 

[Megamach1975]

Make sure the bottom of the intake tube is actually on the throttlebody. Im betting its not. PMAS is known to be a pain to get seated.

ITS OK