Steeda makes TWO STB's that easily clear the M90....and also clear the hood. They are both made from heat treated 4130 chromolly steel, and no they don't rust... even years later. One of the fellows on the old Roush forum put a go-pro camera plus lights, plus measuring device in there... then closed the oem hood. Everything cleared, but that was on a 2010, which has the ...'power dome hood". I tried the other version Steeda makes on my own 2010, and it too clears both the M90..and also the hood liner. However, the stb tube on my version just barely touches the rubber Roush CAI oval tube on the driver's side. ( 2010 M90 CAI is on driver's side, and is really short.. vs the 'anaconda' cai on the 05-09 M90 cai's).
I informed Steeda that both versions clear the M90 and hood liner. The rest is history. The advantage of the Steeda STB is it uses ALL 4 studs on each side. Most STB's only use the inner 2 x studs (inboard studs)..and also use oval shaped holes. Since there is only 26 ft lbs on the studs, plus oval shaped holes, the typ stb assy is not really bonded very well to shock towers.
The Steeda STB uses these massive super thick Al assy's at each end, and also their 4 x close tolerance recessed holes at the top of each strut assy. Each assy just clears the 4 x studs on each side. The actual STB tube uses a rod end spherical at each end of the STB, ( with a hd transverse bolt / nut assy)...and also inline locking threads (so the overall length of the stb tube can be precisely tweaked,so the 4 x studs fit at each end. One end is reverse threaded, just like a turnbuckle).
Ok, now the STB is locked down tight at both ends, with precise fit..and 26 ft lbs on ALL 8 x studs. Another advantage of their design, is the single transverse bolt / nut at either end can easily be removed, and the STB tube can be swung upwards. That came in handy, when I replaced my oem twin 55mm TB with the FRPP twin 62mm TB. Also came in handy, when replacing spark plug #8 (closest to firewall on driver's side). Or the transverse bolt/nut can be removed at both ends, and the entire STB tube can then be removed, if required..like if M90 replaced with a VMP drop in TVS-1900.
In my case, after the fact, I bought and installed a pair of HD steeda strut mounts. That allows for camber adjustment. The steeda HD strut mounts with their 4 x studs mate perfectly with the above steeda STB. I then tweaked the HD strut mount for max negative camber. (aprx -2.0 deg on each side). Once the desired camber was dialed in, those 4 x studs are cranked to 26 ft lbs...and left alone, you don't want to touch em after that, otherwise, with all 4 x loosened, you will screw up your camber adjustment. Hence the included transverse bolt / nut at each end. That way, the STB tube can be swung up at either end, or removed altogether, without having to touch the 8 x studs.
IMO, the oem strut mounts are junk, one time use only, and allow for no camber adjustment. Stock, mine was -.4 deg on pass side, and -1.4 deg on driver's side. Ford specs state 0 to -1.5 deg is within spec. However, they don't mention them being the same. At least with the steeda HD strut mounts, I can dial in a fair amount of neg camber... and both sides can be identical !
On a side note, when the JBA ceramic LT's were installed, JBA said to replace the oem ford 'hydra' gel filled / squishy eng mounts..with steeda HD eng mounts. Being a one shot deal, I did that, and also took advantage of the option that allows for oem eng height, or lower by 1/4" and also 1/2"..and also 3/4". We used the 1/4" eng lowering option. This lowered the eng by 1/4"..which lowers the CG a bit. Steering shaft easily clears the LT primary's on driver's side). Steeda STB no longer just touches the Roush rubber oval CAI (on driver's side on a 2010 M90). Now clears nicely. Steeda provides 6 x poly eng mounts with their HD eng mounts, 2 x black and 4 x red. The black ones have a slightly stiffer durometer. So I used one black and one red on each side for max rigidity...as per their install manual. ( their GT-500 version comes with 4 x blacks only). End result is eng doesn't flop side to side, doesn't budge. No increase in NVH either. OEM eng mount heat shields are re-used.
I have a few other Steeda bits and pieces, and have had zero issues, no rust or fitment issues. I also have a lot of BMR items installed, and no issue with them either, nor the Whiteline watts link.
