Roush TVS 2300 Phase 1 Install.

[golkhl]

Started my TVS install today. TVS 2300 single belt phase 1 kit. Already installed the S&H fuel pump wire upgrade and Kenne Bell BAP. Today I got the intake off, radiator out, alternator modified(ground off ears), and started to modify various hoses. Did not get as much done as I was hoping but ran into some issues that ate up a couple of hours.

First bump in the road was removing the heater hoses at the firewall, what a p.i.t.a. Next up was an absolute fail trying to run air tools with my pancake compressor. Ended up going to the store and buying a Makita angle grinder, problem solved. Worst FUBAR of the day was smashing the fins on my A/C condenser. While removing the radiator I was very careful not to hit any of the fins on the back of the condensor when pulling the radiator out, problem was the A/C condenser was pressed up against the horns and destroyed the fins. I started to straighten them out, and have a fin repair tool on order, hopefully I did not do any serious damage to the condenser. Take a look at the pic and tell me what you think.

First up tomorrow is the ATI super damper install, and then jump back into the Roush install manual.

 

[golkhl]

Here are some pics.

 

[skwerl]

Subscribed. You can pick up a fin comb from Harbor Freight for straightening out the radiator fins.

 

[LAStang1234]

Good luck brother!

 

[Timmbo]

Roush makes a great kit. They are very well engineered and packaged for an easy install. Enjoy!

 

[golkhl]

First project of the day, and already hit a snag. Trying to break the crankshaft damper bolt loose, no luck. Also, I turned the crank enough to hear compression, so is my timing now off? If so, how do I make sure everything is properly lined up(TDC?) after installing the ATI damper. That is, if I can break this bolt loose. I don't have a compressor, so an impact is not an option. Any tips, tricks, etc. to break this bolt loose? Car is in gear, and e-brake is set.

 

[skwerl]

Your timing is not off unless you have the timing chains removed, which I highly doubt. The harmonic balancer is keyed so it is not going to spin on the crank. You're on the right path, car in gear and parking brake set. Keep turning the bolt and it will come loose. Once the bolt is out, remove the big fat spacer washer and put the bolt back in. Then you can use your 3 jaw puller to remove the harmonic balancer. Since you're not messing with the timing chains you don't need to worry about TDC.

If you don't have the right size puller, you can get one at the corner auto parts store for free via their tool loaner program.

 

[golkhl]

Skwerl: Thanks for the quick response, takes some stress off to know that I did not mess up the timing or TDC. Sprayed some PB Blaster on the bolt, and also found online that the trans should be in reverse for bolt removal(I had it in first gear). Hopefully I can break the bolt loose, and be able to torque the new one without the crank turning. More to come..........

 

[Timmbo]

An impact is really going to make the removal of the bolt pure cake. Otherwise your going to need a 1/2 or 3/4" breaker bar with a cheater pipe to break it loose. For the install save your old damper bolt, cut off the head and weld it on an old bolt lying around and make your own install tool. Here is mine:

 

[429244]

What kit are you using that you had to take out the radiator? Do what skwerl says and the bent fins won't be an issue. Have you tried to remove the spark plugs yet (if you need to replace them that is)? If not, get the TSB and do that soon.
Take your time on the wiring. It isn't hard, just time consuming.
Good luck.

 

[golkhl]

I took the radiator out only because I am upgrading to a Fluidyne, also putting in an upgraded Fluidyne heat exchanger. Decided to put the ATI install on the back burner today, soaking the crank bolt in PB Blaster in hopes that I can break it loose in the morning. I have been spending the majority of the day finishing up the hose and wiring modifications. The wire modifications are proving to be very time consuming. Hoping to have the wiring done today, and put in the new plugs and factory Ford COP's. Accell COP's have worked great for the year that they have been on, but everything I read on the forum says to run the stock COP's with forced induction. The Accell's will be among the many parts hitting the classifieds once the install is done. I will post up some pics later tonight.

 

[JoshK]

Find someone that has a battery powered impact you can borrow?

 

[golkhl]

Long day today. Skipped the ATI install due to the fact that I could not break the factory damper bolt loose. Soaking it overnight in PB Blaster, will try it again in the morning. Completed the hose modifications. After many, many hours of work, I finished the wiring modifications. If I were ever to attempt a wire tuck, it would probably take me the better part of forever! Also installed some new NGK 7554's and reinstalled the factory COP's. Next up is another crack at the ATI install, and starting the sub-assembly portion of the Roush install manual.

 

[golkhl]

Here are some pics of today's progress.

 

[808muscle]

Those pics gave me install flashbacks. LOL Who is doing your tune?

 

[golkhl]

Justin from VMP did an email tune for me.

 

[golkhl]

Got the damper bolt out! Soaked overnight with PB Blaster, put the car in fourth gear, and used a 1/2" drive two foot long breaker bar. Next up, stock damper removal and ATI super damper install.

 

[5.0 Probie]

Got the damper bolt out! Soaked overnight with PB Blaster, put the car in fourth gear, and used a 1/2" drive two foot long breaker bar. Next up, stock damper removal and ATI super damper install.

That bolt knows who is the boss now!!!

 

[808muscle]

PB blaster is the bomb.....gotta feel good to overcome that one.

 

[golkhl]

Stock damper is off, but I have a quick question. The ATI damper comes with a spacer(shim), is there a factory spacer(shim) in there that needs to come out? Can't really get a good look down in there, but just want to make sure before I put on the ATI.