Seems like clutch problems

Cpjetmech

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Bought a used 13 GT, has all the bolt on and tuned on 91 octane. Trans is a Ben Calimer stage 1 rebuild with about 9,000 miles on it. Previous owner put it in with OEM style clutch and flywheel, spec stage 2+ pressure plate, and did not replace the throw out bearing(why!). The throwing bearing is making noise but still drives good and shifts good when just cruising. However when I get on it and shift anywhere above about 4,500-5,000 rpms it’s almost like the shifter does not want to come out of 1st for a second or two, then takes a second to be able to get it into 2nd gear. The pedal is moving but it’s feeling like the clutch is sticking to the flywheel or something. Do you all think this is a weak clutch problem? Thanks
 

Juice

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Yup, sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing. Bad cor tbe trans to keep driving it like that.
 

Jgt58

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Get a clutch kit and a oe slave cylinder.

Our cars have built in throw out bearing into the slave....

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Cpjetmech

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Get a clutch kit and a oe slave cylinder.

Our cars have built in throw out bearing into the slave....

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Hey so I just saw this but I ordered a McLeod super street pro kit with the McLeod aluminum flywheel and McLeod throw out bearing. Do you not recommend using the McLeod throwout/ slave cyl?
 

Jgt58

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Nope. Do some searches. OE is the way to go. My setup is ram hdx clutch kit , Ford performance flywheel , Ford performance bolts , Ford performance heavy duty pilot bearing , OE Ford slave cylinder , and ram slave cylinder spacer.

Love it.

Also removed helper spring [emoji106]

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Cpjetmech

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Nope. Do some searches. OE is the way to go. My setup is ram hdx clutch kit , Ford performance flywheel , Ford performance bolts , Ford performance heavy duty pilot bearing , OE Ford slave cylinder , and ram slave cylinder spacer.

Love it.

Also removed helper spring [emoji106]

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hey so I know there’s a bit of info out there about removing the helper spring but what exactly does it do to remove it. Does it make the pedal feel easier to push or harder. Btw I am cancelled the McLeod TOB and going with a ford part after you commented and I was reading reviews. So I’ll post again after I get the McLeod super street pro and aluminum flywheel set up installed and broken in.
 

WNYGT5-0

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We use LUK clutches for oem installations. Good daily clutches. Kit with Flywheel is pretty inexpensive. Stay away from spec. Is this a race car or street car?
 

Jgt58

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hey so I know there’s a bit of info out there about removing the helper spring but what exactly does it do to remove it. Does it make the pedal feel easier to push or harder. Btw I am cancelled the McLeod TOB and going with a ford part after you commented and I was reading reviews. So I’ll post again after I get the McLeod super street pro and aluminum flywheel set up installed and broken in.
It makes it feel more like a cable driven clutch

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KonaMustangGT

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hey so I know there’s a bit of info out there about removing the helper spring but what exactly does it do to remove it. Does it make the pedal feel easier to push or harder. Btw I am cancelled the McLeod TOB and going with a ford part after you commented and I was reading reviews. So I’ll post again after I get the McLeod super street pro and aluminum flywheel set up installed and broken in.

The geometry of the assist spring is that it pushes the clutch pedal up for the first few degrees of travel. After the inflection point, the assist spring works to push the clutch pedal down. If the assist spring is removed, the first part of travel will be easier since you're no longer working against the assist spring. After the inflection point, the clutch pedal effort will go up since it's no longer working to push the clutch pedal down.
 

Jgt58

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The geometry of the assist spring is that it pushes the clutch pedal up for the first few degrees of travel. After the inflection point, the assist spring works to push the clutch pedal down. If the assist spring is removed, the first part of travel will be easier since you're no longer working against the assist spring. After the inflection point, the clutch pedal effort will go up since it's no longer working to push the clutch pedal down.
It's just better feeling [emoji1787]

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Cpjetmech

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We use LUK clutches for oem installations. Good daily clutches. Kit with Flywheel is pretty inexpensive. Stay away from spec. Is this a race car or street car?
This is a mostly street car, may see drag strip once or twice a year.... well last week I ordered a McLeod super street pro w/ aluminum McLeod flywheel, ford OEM slave/tob, and the Ford Racing high load pilot bearing. Hopefully all this makes it feel better and shift nicely at high rpm where it currently has problems. I’ll let you know how it goes... currently waiting on parts
 

Stevejr

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Buy a clutch pedal spacer. My car was the exact same. It was so bad I was going to put in an auto when I do my swap. I figured what have I got to lose? $50. Now it shifts normal.
 

Stevejr

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Buy a clutch pedal spacer. My car was the exact same. It was so bad I was going to put in an auto when I do my swap. I figured what have I got to lose? $50. Now it shifts normal.
 

Cpjetmech

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Update, had to cancel the McLeod kit a few weeks back due to my patience level and backorder products. So I ordered and got the Exedy Mach 500, oe slave, FP high load pilot, arp hw, new billet lighter flywheel....break in period just began. Is anyone running the Exedy Mach 500. If so where is engagement? Mine feels very far out on pedal feel where it engages...feels like it engages at the top of travel.
 
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