Shaker 500 Head Unit Question

[That Guy]

Bought a 2010 GT with no head unit or HVAC controls. Got another Shaker 500 from a guy for cheap with controls and such. The unit won’t function in my car even though it was from the same year and similar option package.
I assume the dealership would have to associate them together with IDS. Are there any other options to get them to associate? Maybe Forscan? I haven’t played with it, just read about it.
May stop at the dealership tomorrow to see what they have to say.

TIA

 

[brasil]

... I am not 100 Percent sure, but I think that you need to relearn the ACM ..because the new unit is not programmed . Two possibilities " the friendly " or someone who has a FORSCAN incl ELM

 

[Andrea]

I have recently swapped the ACM in my Mustang, with another one having exactly the same code.
Still, it didn't work properly until I programmed it with Forscan.
The procedure is very easy and only takes a couple of minutes, there are plenty of videos online. You just need to write to the ACM module the ASBUILT data that you can download from the Motorcraft website here: https://www.motorcraftservice.com/asbuilt

Do you get any errors or messages when turning on the car, on the radio display?

 

[That Guy]

Thank you both. I don’t get error messages per se. It just powers on and the display says “Mustang”, but nothing functions. I may go the Forscan route. If I do, I may PM you for pointers. I’ve watched a bunch of videos on Forscan and read thru their forum. Main issue is that I only have Mac computers. I think I can install a windows VM or bootcamp my MacBook though. I appreciate your replies.

 

[Andrea]

Thank you both. I don’t get error messages per se. It just powers on and the display says “Mustang”, but nothing functions. I may go the Forscan route. If I do, I may PM you for pointers. I’ve watched a bunch of videos on Forscan and read thru their forum. Main issue is that I only have Mac computers. I think I can install a windows VM or bootcamp my MacBook though. I appreciate your replies.

As you say, it will still be easy if you use a VM and have an Intel Mac. If you have an ARM-based Mac, things get a little more convoluted, but there are still solutions online (at least, if you use the vLinker interface cable). Of course, if you need help, PM me.

 

[That Guy]

Thanks. I bought the very last iteration of Intel-based MacBook for that reason. I just haven’t had a good reason to bootcamp it (yet). I also have a windows laptop somewhere, but I think one of my kids have claimed it and stuffed it somewhere in their room

 

[That Guy]

Went to the local dealership today. They told me the Shaker units should be plug and play. Based on what I have read, that is not entirely accurate. @Andrea I sent you a message.

 

[That Guy]

I am resurrecting this thread instead of starting a new one. Dealership was zero help (no surprise). Went to a local stereo shop. They said they could not get power to an aftermarket head unit, so I am back in my garage.

Using Forscan I cannot see the APIM (Communication module). Tried two different adapters and several versions of Forscan.
I checked (with a multimeter) all the fuses that could be associated with the module in the cabin and under the hood.
I then went behind the glove compartment and inspected the module wiring. It appeared it was all good and locked in. I grabbed the wiring harness and found it was not locked in. It has a cam lock type connector and was partially not locked in. That was good(ish) news.
I inspected the connector, the wiring and the pins and they all looked good. I reconnected the connector and left eh battery disconnected overnight. I connected it this morning hoping it would all work. It doesn't. The Shaker 500 unit has backlights and the small screen says "Mustang GT" and shows the direction the car is facing. Forscan also does not see the APIM module still.
I was looking online to see if there was a wiring schematic for the 54 pin connector to the APIM. I found a couple that say Pin 1 (Orange/Red) is power. I am not sure what pin is pin 1, but it has to be at one end or the other of the connector. The way the connector is designed it is not as easy as testing the pins from the back. I also don't have a 12v tester which will fit in the small pin holes on the connector itself. I did use a small paper clip to extend my tester, but I didn't find power and truthfully I am hesitant to use a paper clip in that manner. If I short out the power at the connector, I am liable to let the magic white smoke out of another component (ask me how I know).
I think I am at the point of buying a new APIM online with the same part number. I see them online from $40-$400. Some will program them to your VIN. I feel like I can probably do that myself with Forscan and my As Build data. Here are my questions:
Anyone have a good way to test the APIM to make sure it is getting power? If it is not getting power, then it is probably some other issue.
Anyone have advice on a reputable source for a replacement APIM?

If anyone has other advice, let me know. I am just chasing down leads here, and I know there is a ton of knowledge on this forum.

TIA

 

[That Guy]

I'll post an update here in the event someone else has this issue in the future and finds this thread.

I have a factory manual (PDF) for a 2014 and a 2007 GT. Neither of them is exact to my 2010, but close. The 2007 manual makes no mention of the APIM. The 2014 manual is what I used.

Anyway, I found section 418-00 on about page 3785 of the 2014 manual details the troubleshooting of "unable to communicate with APIM". Using a multimeter and a probe test kit I ran through all of the tests. The tests are a multitude of voltage and resistance tests between vairious pins on the APIM connector and the DSC Connector (OBD2 Port). My car passed all of these tests. The manual advises to consult the "Online Workshop Manual" if the vehicle passes all the tests and the problem still isn't resolved. From what I have found, that online manual is a subscription-based manual on the Motorcraft site.

So, I think I am going to shop for a new APIM with a model number close to what I have. My current APIM part number is AR3T-14B428-BD. First four numbers are my car 2010 Mustang. The middle four are the part number I believe and the last two indicate the revision. I think if I match the first set and the second set, I will be in business. I still welcome any advice from anyone who has done this.

V/R

 

[GriffX]

On the as-build page they say:

Module address 727
Programmable Module Installation (PMI) must be performed when replacing module. If the information cannot be inhaled from the original module, As-built data must be used to properly configure module

Does someone know where it is stored? In the BCM, ECU ? Or the shaker itself? Is it possible to add a line?
(I want to switch to Europe region but my Shaker has not the corresponding line in the as built. )

Found this ACM Database

 

[That Guy]

I'm not a pro at this, but here are my thoughts.
Your car has "as built" data assigned to the VIN. You may be able to find as built data from a vehicle that has what you are looking for and then write it to that module. For example, your instrument cluster may be in KM and you want it in miles or something like that. I have found spreadsheets on line with as built data and there is a person on another forum who has compiled a bunch of as built data. I'll see if I can find that.
I used the Motorcraft site to find my as built data. My issue is that FOrscan would not see my Accesory Program Interface module and then would in turn not see my HVAC or Radio (Accessory Control Module). My plan is to get this new APIM. Then I will write my As Built data to it and hopefully it will then recognize my HVAC and ACM. If not, I will have to figure that out. Forscan has a pretty good forum as well with tech stuff.

Hope that helps,

 

[That Guy]

Because everybody likes an update.

I got the newest APIM yesterday. Plugged it in to see if there was a change, there wasn't. So, I ran through the pinpoint tests in the shop manual to triple check that. It all tested within parameters.

So, I was miffed. I know this car has been in an accident, and I know the PO had tried to fix stuff. I decided to remove most of the dashboard and trace all of the CAN wiring. And that's when I found this, on the MS CAN someone had cut it at some point. Instead of soldering and twisting it, they just twisted the wires on one circuit together and zip tied the connection. The other set of wires looked like they had at least used a blue crimp connection. Nope, they used two crimp on spade connectors and then laid the spades on top of each other and electrical taped them together (not ideal).

So, I twisted them up, soldered them and shrink wrapped them. Then I plugged the APIM in and powered up the car. Still no APIM on , but I now could see my HVAC module. I looked at the network topology again and watched the last quarter of a football game. It dawned on me that the network relies on all of the modules. I did not have the radio or screen (ACM, FDIM, FCIM) plugged in.

After the game I went out and plugged it all in. Wired the battery up and turned on the car. I'll be damned. The entire thing just worked. I can't connect via Bluetooth and I'm not sure if cruise control works, but I'll work through that.

My lesson has been learned. Check the wiring. Not just what you can see laying on the floor. Pull panels, put your hands on all the connectors and all of the wiring. Anything that doesn't look factory (like gobs of electrical taped), cut it off and verify what is underneath.

And lastly, if you are working on a car, it's probably okay to twist wires together or zip tie them to test it, but when you get it, do it right. You'll see in the pic, the spade connector wasn't even crimped on the wire, it is crimped well onto the insulation.

Now I’m going to start thinking about rebuilding my rear differential. Or maybe my clicking blend door

Thanks to those who reached out.

 

[Autokyrios]

I should write a coffee table book called "Bad Automotive Electrical Work"....but I doubt I could get anyone to print a 4-thousand page book...and certainly not volume 2.

 

[That Guy]

I should write a coffee table book called "Bad Automotive Electrical Work"....but I doubt I could get anyone to print a 4-thousand page book...and certainly not volume 2.

Lol, you are not lying. Same with houses.

Erik

 

[GriffX]

These round type style connectors are far better than the flat.

 

[That Guy]

These round type style connectors are far better than the flat.

View attachment 112204

These round type style connectors are far better than the flat.

View attachment 112204

I did the solder and shrink wrap think. Those flat connectors suck. And when you just lay two male connectors on top of each other, it does nothing.

E